blacklite

Hey, my name is Drew. While researching and looking for fc's (as a first car, im very mechanically-inclined), I am wonder if it is worthwhile to buy one. I wonder this because manufacturing of parts for the rx7 has stopped, rotaries arent common, and because they are now at least 21 years old.

I figure there are model-specific parts that if broken, I probably could not replace unless it was custom made right? Ive seen posts dating back to like 2002 that say some parts are rare but 9 years later how many more parts are that rare now?

Also, I have done searches on this topic through this forums search engine and google's and haven't found recent, sufficient information. Sorry if I missed a similar thread

mar3

iTrader: (8)

The cars are old, so it is highly advised that the faint of heart do not buy these cars thinking it'll be an easy fix. If you've got a good learning curve and a little bit of loose $$$ in your pocket, that's a different story but it really sounds like you need to play with some piston-powered cars for now and get some "gearhead" skillz first.

Mario III

blacklite

Hey thanks for the input!

Yea that's what logic tells me, but a couple hours after starting this thread I came across a running, frequently serviced fc with a newly build engine with 40k on it - asking $2000

Right now I'm thinking it's a worthwhile risk I won't regret, not to mention I'm hard headed. I don't expect an easy fix. If anything, I look forward to the challenges it presents to me. What kind of major work do you foresee besides maybe rebuilding own engines and trouble shooting?

mar3

iTrader: (8)

The engine is the trickiest part of the whole deal. Ask that guy to not start the car in the morning before you go to see it. When you get there, have him/her pop the hood and place your hand on one of the iron plates to see if it's still dead cold. Even the slightest hint of warm is no good.

If it's dead cold, stand by the driver's side door and ask him to start 'er up. Watch to see if he has to do anything unusual to crank it up. Once it starts, head to the tailpipe. White smoke coming out at first is ok unless it's got a "fuel" or oily smell. If it does, that ain't no 40k rebuild.

If it passes that start up test, you're clear for the test drive. Let it warm up, take it easy. Check engine rpm response to 3500 for response and torque, both indicators of a fresh engine.

After it's for sure warmed up, get it on the highway and wind it out. Does it blow a ton of white smoke when you shift to the next gear at 7200 rpm? That's oil seals and an indicator again, that this is not a 40k rebuild.

Once done with the test drive, pop the oil cap and see if it has "lung mustard." This would be an indication that the emissions systems have a problem. There should be nothing in that tube but a black oily film and maybe a little surface rust near the top of the tube.

Ask if it has passed a sniffer test with the "new" engine recently.

If all those items get a green flag, $2000 is a deal if the body and interior are ok. Go for it.

Let's see what the real 2ndgen guru's have got to say, though. Could be there's other tricks I don't know about on the FC line since I'm a 1stgen SA/FB kinda guy.

blacklite

Okay, will do. Those are great tips to find out how 'new' a engine is. Why would a little warmth (I assume you mean room temp) be bad if it has not been turned started all day though?

Once again, thanks Mario. It really makes a difference to actually communicate with someone about this as opposed to just reading post of other people.

BruddaManFC

I was reading this post and had to laugh. I'm a mechanical retard, if the engine won't start i lift the bonnet to make sure it is still there. I am however putting all my effort into learning how this thing tics. I've bought an import 4 seater 1990 Fc3s-e and i am loving it.

will post pics n questions when my thread count is high enough.

-Josh

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

As far as parts, most stuff is still available at the dealer. The exception is some miscellaneous hardware, some trim pieces, and stuff of that nature. Major mechanicals are easily available as are engine parts. Anything the dealer doesn't have can be generally found at Mazdatrix.

Rotary engines are far from uncommon. Mazda has been selling them since the late '60s and there are a LOT of them on the road.

These links will help you when you look at the car:

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/buy1.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/buy2.htm

blacklite

^ thats exactly the reassurance I need!

Now I just need to worry about smog, because the owner last did it in 2003. They live in a county that does not require smogs... damn Sacramento and California's legislature

tlmitf

Your going to have fun trying to pass a tailpipe sniff on the stock computer with old shitty stock injectors.
If you fail smog, getting the injectors serviced and replacing your cat should go a long way to helping.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

To put it in perspective, my 87 GXL was $1400 with 90k original miles, a rebuilt title due to bodywork and one of the worst ghetto-fab exhaust jobs I've ever seen. ObliqueFD surmised that the first precat plugged up, then puked its contents, destroying the two other cats and shredding the catback. The previous owner pulled the cats off, slapped a piece of fence post on a pipe bender, used some random flange with the sides broken off so it would sort of fit and called it done. This is not how you do exhaust work.

On the engine side, the coolant seals were starting to go south, but it started up on the first try and behaved properly on the test drive. I got lucky because the previous owner didn't know anything about the specific requirements for maintaining the car properly. For $2000, your best bet would be to see if one of the admins or moderators could go with you to check it out. If it's a dud, they'll tell you and suggest how to fix its issues.

tlmitf is correct. There's one way to cheat your way through emissions in "the first thread any new owner should read" (hint: FAQ). The simpler solution would be to move out of California. In Ohio, a car that's 25 years old is considered vintage and is exempt from emissions regardless of the county. And for cars newer than 25 years, they seem pretty lax. On any given day, I see at least five 3/4 or 1-ton (usually dully) type of diesel pickup truck spewing giant clouds of black **** in the air on a level that should be considered terrorism, but absolutely nothing happens to them. And every time it's either a guy compensating for a 2" ***** or a militant lesbian with ***** envy driving it...

This is why I can get away with no cats on my car

mar3

iTrader: (8)

Good stuff, all. Thanks, guys!

If the iron is at ambient temperature in the morning, you shouldn't feel a difference in temp by touching it unless your hand has been chilled or heated. If the block feels cool to the touch, it hasn't warmed back up to ambient temperature from the cool night and early morning hours and that's what you want.

If the block is warm to the touch in the morning and the morning itself is below 78 deg or so, that engine was started for the day and left to idle for 5 minutes to cover a starting problem. If you're in Texas, where it's staying above 82 deg F even at night and in the morning, it's def harder to call.

You gotta be there first thing in the morning to check start-up behavior.

I forgot to add in the above soapbox dialogue that after the highway run and you return to the shop or home of the Seller, stop the car and let it sit for 2 minutes. Try to start it. If that works, let it sit for 10 minutes, chat it up and then ask to try to start the car again.

This test is more for carbureted cars but leaky injectors can be caught this way also. The car won't start because it floods after a hot run.

blacklite

Ah I see. I'll keep that in mind (actually I'll probably print out this thread and take it with me ). Unfortunately I can only check the car out in the afternoon tomorrow because of classes.

Off-topic:
The car has a dented passengers fender with a pop-up light that sticks up as a result. It also has a leaky roof. However, the interior is immaculate. The older couple is asking $2000. Taking into account likely smog repairs, I'm thinking $1700 at most.
Wish me luck guys

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Start with $1700, then offer to split the difference and settle at $1850.

Mazdatrix has the sunroof seal. If there's a Pick-n-pull near you, they're bound to have a FC on the lot to grab a fender & headlight bucket from. Right now, the local Columbus one to me has two, which is VERY rare. They usually don't have any lol.

blacklite

Even better, I bought it for 1700. The interior is missing some vents, *****, and I'll need to do a bit of body work. I probably should have only paid 1500, but I upped it for a detailed car history and good humble sellers

and whooey! and it felt nice to drive
Thanks for all the input, it came in handy.

egapracer13

Welcome to the club of Rx7 owners...

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

That should read: Welcome to the Asylum. You don't have to be crazy to be here... BUT IT HELPS!!!!!!

Khabra

Just wondering did everything test out ok?