FC S4 NA Changed Alternator Now Won't Start
04-15-12, 01:02 AM
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FC S4 NA Changed Alternator Now Won't Start
1986 automatic - running prior to changing the alternator. No 'mods', just went from running to not running. Not flooded, getting spark...at a loss. All I did was disconnect the battery, pull the old - add the new, re-connect the battery. Has new fuses for under the hood and new plugs. Please help, didn't find an answer searching the boards. Would something have shut off the fuel?
04-15-12, 12:33 PM
#3
^ What he wrote, and also:
Don't overlook the obvious:
-> Are the battery cables correctly connected to the alternator? Because as far as I remember (I may be wrong) S4 alternators have 3 terminals.
-> Is the new alternator also from a S4? Or is it from a S5?
-> Have you tried putting back the old alternator and see if it works? If it does, then the new alternator may be faulty or not the same as the old one.
Don't overlook the obvious:
-> Are the battery cables correctly connected to the alternator? Because as far as I remember (I may be wrong) S4 alternators have 3 terminals.
-> Is the new alternator also from a S4? Or is it from a S5?
-> Have you tried putting back the old alternator and see if it works? If it does, then the new alternator may be faulty or not the same as the old one.
04-15-12, 06:51 PM
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I have gone through both of the de-flooding procedures. When I pull the plugs after trying to start it there is a little fuel on them, slightly wet and smells like gas.
Is there something else I can do to ensure it is in fact 100% not flooded besides the tow different de-flooding procedures?
Is there something else I can do to ensure it is in fact 100% not flooded besides the tow different de-flooding procedures?
Last edited by jharris2188; 04-15-12 at 07:12 PM.
04-15-12, 07:03 PM
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^ What he wrote, and also:
Don't overlook the obvious:
-> Are the battery cables correctly connected to the alternator? Because as far as I remember (I may be wrong) S4 alternators have 3 terminals.
-> Is the new alternator also from a S4? Or is it from a S5?
-> Have you tried putting back the old alternator and see if it works? If it does, then the new alternator may be faulty or not the same as the old one.
Don't overlook the obvious:
-> Are the battery cables correctly connected to the alternator? Because as far as I remember (I may be wrong) S4 alternators have 3 terminals.
-> Is the new alternator also from a S4? Or is it from a S5?
-> Have you tried putting back the old alternator and see if it works? If it does, then the new alternator may be faulty or not the same as the old one.
Going to put the old on tonight or tomorrow ... was hoping to get it going today
On the S4 alternator there is the clip in the back with two wires (looks like a T) for the R and L terminals and the hot from the battery. The 'leftover' terminal being 'F' and I call it leftover because I do not recall unplugging anything from there nor can I find anything in the FSM that shows a use besides testing.
04-15-12, 07:46 PM
#6
Doesn't matter what S4NA your battery cables are from, all are the same. But at the same time, I'd bet good money that one of them is the culprit. 25 years of prior-owner neglect really takes its toll on them.
Check the voltage on the positive cable at the starter. If your battery is reading 12.6 (full charge), voltage at the starter should be no lower than 12.5 when not cranking. If it is lower, your cables are the issue.
Ideally, you should de-loom the Engine Harness and extract the battery cables from it. Clean them up and/or replace per Aaron Cake's grounding article here:
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/grounding.htm
Removing the positive cable is a minor annoyance due to the splices for the Alternator and Fuse Box. What I did was snip both at the large cable and give the fuse box input cable a suitable ring terminal or lug. 4 AWG cable should be used for the alternator and starter. Lengths are 24" from battery to alternator and 48" from battery to starter. Battery negative to chassis ground is 24", same for chassis ground to starter. Your positive terminal will now have three lugs on it: Starter, Alternator and Fuse Box. Good reason to get Marine Battery terminals.
The "T" connector on the back is so the Voltage Regulator can see what the alternator is doing. That is the "R" terminal on it. The "L" terminal is what turns on the warning light when voltage is too low.
Check the voltage on the positive cable at the starter. If your battery is reading 12.6 (full charge), voltage at the starter should be no lower than 12.5 when not cranking. If it is lower, your cables are the issue.
Ideally, you should de-loom the Engine Harness and extract the battery cables from it. Clean them up and/or replace per Aaron Cake's grounding article here:
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/grounding.htm
Removing the positive cable is a minor annoyance due to the splices for the Alternator and Fuse Box. What I did was snip both at the large cable and give the fuse box input cable a suitable ring terminal or lug. 4 AWG cable should be used for the alternator and starter. Lengths are 24" from battery to alternator and 48" from battery to starter. Battery negative to chassis ground is 24", same for chassis ground to starter. Your positive terminal will now have three lugs on it: Starter, Alternator and Fuse Box. Good reason to get Marine Battery terminals.
The "T" connector on the back is so the Voltage Regulator can see what the alternator is doing. That is the "R" terminal on it. The "L" terminal is what turns on the warning light when voltage is too low.
04-15-12, 09:09 PM
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Doesn't matter what S4NA your battery cables are from, all are the same. But at the same time, I'd bet good money that one of them is the culprit. 25 years of prior-owner neglect really takes its toll on them.
Check the voltage on the positive cable at the starter. If your battery is reading 12.6 (full charge), voltage at the starter should be no lower than 12.5 when not cranking. If it is lower, your cables are the issue.
Ideally, you should de-loom the Engine Harness and extract the battery cables from it. Clean them up and/or replace per Aaron Cake's grounding article here:
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/grounding.htm
Removing the positive cable is a minor annoyance due to the splices for the Alternator and Fuse Box. What I did was snip both at the large cable and give the fuse box input cable a suitable ring terminal or lug. 4 AWG cable should be used for the alternator and starter. Lengths are 24" from battery to alternator and 48" from battery to starter. Battery negative to chassis ground is 24", same for chassis ground to starter. Your positive terminal will now have three lugs on it: Starter, Alternator and Fuse Box. Good reason to get Marine Battery terminals.
The "T" connector on the back is so the Voltage Regulator can see what the alternator is doing. That is the "R" terminal on it. The "L" terminal is what turns on the warning light when voltage is too low.
Check the voltage on the positive cable at the starter. If your battery is reading 12.6 (full charge), voltage at the starter should be no lower than 12.5 when not cranking. If it is lower, your cables are the issue.
Ideally, you should de-loom the Engine Harness and extract the battery cables from it. Clean them up and/or replace per Aaron Cake's grounding article here:
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/grounding.htm
Removing the positive cable is a minor annoyance due to the splices for the Alternator and Fuse Box. What I did was snip both at the large cable and give the fuse box input cable a suitable ring terminal or lug. 4 AWG cable should be used for the alternator and starter. Lengths are 24" from battery to alternator and 48" from battery to starter. Battery negative to chassis ground is 24", same for chassis ground to starter. Your positive terminal will now have three lugs on it: Starter, Alternator and Fuse Box. Good reason to get Marine Battery terminals.
The "T" connector on the back is so the Voltage Regulator can see what the alternator is doing. That is the "R" terminal on it. The "L" terminal is what turns on the warning light when voltage is too low.
Last edited by jharris2188; 04-15-12 at 09:23 PM.
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04-15-12, 09:12 PM
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Battery cables are connected to the alternator. It came off an 1986 non-turbo, would it make a difference between base (mine) and a GXL?
Going to put the old on tonight or tomorrow ... was hoping to get it going today
On the S4 alternator there is the clip in the back with two wires (looks like a T) for the R and L terminals and the hot from the battery. The 'leftover' terminal being 'F' and I call it leftover because I do not recall unplugging anything from there nor can I find anything in the FSM that shows a use besides testing.
Going to put the old on tonight or tomorrow ... was hoping to get it going today
On the S4 alternator there is the clip in the back with two wires (looks like a T) for the R and L terminals and the hot from the battery. The 'leftover' terminal being 'F' and I call it leftover because I do not recall unplugging anything from there nor can I find anything in the FSM that shows a use besides testing.
In the FSM it clearly states NOT to start the car with that disconnected which technically, it was. So, what damage may that have caused ? ? ?
04-16-12, 05:16 AM
#9
You seem to be going in the right direction. Checking cables and their connections is always a good thing to do.
About the damage, I don't know what might have happened. Maybe someone else knows what can happen in those situations...
Good luck.
About the damage, I don't know what might have happened. Maybe someone else knows what can happen in those situations...
Good luck.
04-16-12, 07:36 AM
#10
The car will start w/o an alternator as long as the battery has a sufficient charge to it. When replacing the alternator did you accidentally do something to the Water Thermosensor connection on the back of the water pump housing? Damage to the sensor and or connection "could" cause a hard start. And have you tried using starter fluid to get the car to start briefly? Also, make sure to doublecheck the 15 amp Engine fuse.
04-16-12, 08:58 AM
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The car will start w/o an alternator as long as the battery has a sufficient charge to it. When replacing the alternator did you accidentally do something to the Water Thermosensor connection on the back of the water pump housing? Damage to the sensor and or connection "could" cause a hard start. And have you tried using starter fluid to get the car to start briefly? Also, make sure to doublecheck the 15 amp Engine fuse.
04-16-12, 10:00 AM
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Next one will be a t2 5 speed...
04-16-12, 10:00 AM
#14
The air intake duct on top of the radiator. It's best to do it with the fuel pump disconnected so if it fires up briefly then it should clear out the housings of excess fuel. Do this a couple of times if the first attempt to get the car to start works followed by reconnecting the electrical plug to the fuel pump (located in the rear of car) and then try to start the car in a normal fashion.
04-16-12, 08:42 PM
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Didn't get a chance to try and start the 7 today - tranny went out in the wife's truck...but Ford is paying that bill But, that thermo sensor connection looks BAD.
Can they be repaired or just buy a new (new to me) one?
But, that thermo sensor connection looks BAD.Can they be repaired or just buy a new (new to me) one?
04-18-12, 06:04 PM
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My mechanic buddy told to look behind the passenger kick plate for a button that may need to be pushed...look in there, didn't see this 'unicorn'. Is there another location for this 'reset button' ? he told me that he had a simliar issue with getting spark, fuel an air/combustion but it wouldn't start until he press the button.
04-18-12, 09:23 PM
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Is there a 'reset' on the circuit breakers on the fuse box? I have searched around but haven't been able to find anything.
04-20-12, 06:52 PM
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are you sure your getting spark?
try spraying carb cleaning into the intake and try to start the car. if it trys to run... then you have a fuel problem...... and i hope the computer is ok... jus sayin
try spraying carb cleaning into the intake and try to start the car. if it trys to run... then you have a fuel problem...... and i hope the computer is ok... jus sayin
04-20-12, 10:52 PM
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On a side note I did just score a nice 1986 FSM for $5.00 plus $4.95 shipping
Should know more this weekend (hopefully) as what the problem is...will update it as soon as I know.