Not sure when the last time it was that this car ran properly but when the car dies out it is under situations where the car is under load and it seems you have to have the engine warmed up fairly well before you can place load on the engine w/o it dying. The BAC helps to offset the load placed on the engine so it needs to be addessed.

 

10-4 Should have time toward the end of the week to go through everything. Off topic, this tach look like it will work...only one I can find is at sears.

Tach at Sears

 

Quick question.

Back under/by the throttle body is a 3 wire connection, looks like one is a green/brown wire...what is this one for?

 

More info needed.

 

Kinda hard to see in there, will try to get a closer look. The wire diagrams are 'fun' to read.

 

Was looking at something else, green tps wire connection broke. Had a different one in glove box.

 

Had the running, not great but firing up...I'd say decent. Now, the next day I have lost spark to the plugs...killing me Battery is good, fuses are good, can't find a different fuse that may have blown somewhere else.

 

Trying to search the forum but appears to be missing 'spark' as well

 

Does the Black/Yellow wire at the leading coil (two wire plug) have voltage w/key to on? This wire powers the coil.

 

No, I could not get a reading on the leading...12v dc is what it should be?

 

40 amp EGI INJ fuse is brand new, 15 amp Engine fuse in the interior fuse is good.

 

There's a Green check connector with four wires next to the battery/leading coil area and one of these wires is Black/White, and the other three are Yellow based. W/key to on does the Black/White wire have voltage. If it doesn't then the Main Relay is probably not relaying the voltage as it should.

 

10-4

I found this post that has a lot of similar q/a's - starting with what you just said

https://www.rx7club.com/new-member-rx-7-technical-256/86-rx7-ignition-problems-957088/

The search function is not working for me so I have to google and find posts from there.

 

Quick question, may need to take a pic.

Between the trailing coil and the firewall against the inside of the quarter panel is a 6 (possibly 8 pin) blue connector - only blue connector over there...wdo you know what that is?

I ask because there is a jumper wire on there.

 

That's part of the starter circuit and the jumper passes voltage from the ignition switch to the wire that runs to the starter solenoid. This is normal for cars w/o the Starter Cut Relay associated w/cars equipped w/factory alarm. What's up w/the B/W wire at the check connector.

 

Going to check it ASAP - Walked outside and the door closed and locked behind me to my dad's shop. Waiting on him to get back with key...

 

B/W wire at the check connector w/key on is 2.4 volts

 

Black/Yellow wire at the leading coil w/ key on is 2.39 volts

 

Should the electric fan come on with key/on all of the time?

 

Does the Main Relay click w/key to on. The relay has two plugs. One of the plugs has two wires. The B/W wire should have battery voltage w/key to on. Does it? And the second wire is Black and it is a ground and thus should have no voltage.

In the other relay plug which has four wires there is White/Blue wire and Black/Green wire which should have constant battery voltage (no key necessary). If either wire does not have constant voltage then either the EGI fuse(s) is bad or the connection under the fuse box is loose.

 

Internet is sucking today, just got this updated post. Might not be till the am to check. Good news is I received my $10 FSM today which is a heck of a lot easier to read then the printed out version

Just to confirm, main relay is right above where my starter cut circuit is jumpered, on the blue connector?

 

Pretty much so. It's bolted to the fender and has the two plugs and associated wires as described.

 

The main relay no longer clicking w/key on. Checked the EGI fuse (good) and the connection, also good. Is there a way to test the main relay, like applying voltage to it to see if it clicks - don't wan to to fry that

Going through the FSM it appears the ignition switch is dead/malfunctioning.

 

White/Blue wire has same voltage as battery and Black/Green wire has no reading.

Don't see a b/w into the main relay.

 

The B/G wire comes from the engine fuse box and is powered by the EGI INJ fuse so either the fuse is bad or the wire is loose underneath the fuse box as suggested earlier or the wire is grounded out, so you need to see which of these possibilities it is and shouldn't be too hard to figure out. As for the B/W wire, it's located in the two wire plug of the Main Relay. If one wire is Black then the other wire must be B/W but if the B/G wire in the four wire plug is w/o voltage then this is likely your problem and not the B/W wire..