Phyxs

So I've been working to get my 1990 vert back into shape. I've checked the ohm readings from both the MAP sensor connectors and at the ECU, both are fine, but when checking the codes, 13 consistently comes up. Short of replacing the sensor all together, is there anything else that might help remedy this issue?

-Jon

Phyxs

bump?

satch

iTrader: (1)

If the engine is a non turbo then the G/Y wire at the sensor in question should be 3.4 to 3.6 volts w/key to on (w/the plug connected to the sensor you backprobe the wires for voltage readings). Also, the vacuum hose sjhould be disconnected and the hose capped. The other two wires such as the Brown/White wire should have close to 5 volts w/key to on and the Brown/Black wire is the ground wire.

mezarx7

Would having a bad pressure sensor cause me to fail smog? In CA keep in mind

Phyxs

We went through this is the last post satch the ligh came back on when revved to high rpms

satch

iTrader: (1)

I don't remember every post especially when new threads are created when the old thread was just fine. So which light are we talking about? The CEL?

Phyxs

https://www.rx7club.com/new-member-rx-7-technical-256/about-lose-my-mind-998776/ was the previous post. And yes, the CEL came back on after a few days. Tried removing the negative battery terminal again, did not work this time. :S

satch

iTrader: (1)

Try removing the vacuum hose to the sensor and plug it and then start the car and let it idle and see if the code appears again. And perhaps clear the code before doing this.

Phyxs

Okay so I reset the codes. Nothing showing up so far, but I haven't driven her in a day or 2. Now my main issues are recurring issues that bug me. Sometimes the car won't idle when cold. The idle sits around 1k, any less and it bounces from 750-0 dying out at times. I've adjusted the TPS to the proper specifications(12v on 1 sensor end, 0 on the other). It also refuses to drive properly under 3500 RPMs(it jerks like when you're first learning to drive a stick shift but in 2-4 gears). Anything that might cause these specific issues?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The secondary injectors come online at 3800 rpm so perhaps your primary injectors are at fault. They could be clogged or the plugs to them are not mated well w/the injector. You can tell if the plugs are mated properly by taking a voltage reading at the ECU pins 3W,Light Green wire, and 3Y, Light Green/Black wire w/key to on and both should read 12 volts. Also, check the vacuum hose to the Pressure Sensor and better yet, just replace the hose and take care to pull out the restrictor pill in the hose and place it in the new hose. And which wire from the TPS did you use to set it? Also, the TPS cannot be set unless the idle is about 750 rpm. You can adjust the idle lower via the air adjust screw on top of the Dynamic Chamber and the Initial Set Coupler needs to be jumpered before doing this.