Clifford Quiocho

So. I've been looking for answers but it's really hard to find one.
I have an RX-7 FC year 1986 and I am from washington and the weather here is COLD
So recently I changed my oil and I used a synthetic oil 10W-40 and the brand is Valvoline which was a recommended oil from Autozone.
and on my tik tok people commented
1. Don't use synthetic oil.
2. Use synthetic oil only if you remove OMP - and it's my first time having a car actually. It's also my first time doing maintenance myself and I don't know how to remove OMP

So my question is guys.
What is the oil that I should really use for my car on Cold Weather? or what is the oil recommended from the manual because they seller didn't have the manuals for the car. Thank you guys

Maxwedge

iTrader: (1)

I don't know the proper viscosity oil for your FC but you should be able to find it on google. But don't worry about removing your OMP - It's an important part of your motor and there are no gains to you removing it. Use conventional oil because it burns cleaner than synthetic in your rotary engine. Rotaries are designed to burn oil to lubricate the inner engine seals. Synthetic oil is great for bearings but leaves deposits in the combustion chambers on a rotary, so just use Regular old oil like the manufacturer recommends. Your OMP injects the oil into the chambers so leave it alone or you'll kill your motor.

Removing the OMP and committing to pre-mixing is a pain in the butt and there's no need for you to do it.

Clifford Quiocho

thank you for the info. it’s very confusing when you are new and there’s a lot of opinions to look for. so if i used synthetic oil now and when i do change my oil soon. is it okay of I use another oil even if there’s still small amount of synthetic oil inside thats been left?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

I don’t see a manual for the 86 model year but fairly sure the 88 will have essentially the same info—-> http://wright-here.net/files/manuals...ion_system.pdf
Viscosity recommendations at the bottom of page 2-3.

As mentioned, 30 years ago synthetic oil formulations, while superior in shear characteristics and performance in high temperature environments, they tended NOT to burn as well. Since MAZDA designed the engine to inject and subsequently burn a SMALL amount of it, they recommended staying with traditional oil. And for a number of reasons most of us recommend shorter change intervals...I change mine around 3 thousand miles.

1st, synthetic formulations are, I believe, improved since then. While still probably not as good as traditional petroleum, I don’t think it’s as bad in terms of carbon deposits.
2nd, If cared for, imo the rotary suffers from few oil related issues. Since synthetic costs significantly more and you’re changing it more often, just stay with traditional oil. This is especially true I think if your car is normally aspirated (NOT turbocharged).
3rd, all that said, relax. Running synthetic, especially modern synthetics in your car isn’t going to blow it up or necessarily harm anything at all. Certainly not leaving a small amount behind during an oil change.

Natey

iTrader: (19)

Castrol 10W-40 for decades.. 20W-50 in the summer.
No need to spend twice as much on synth that may or may not burn correctly.

Clifford Quiocho

finally. you guys are awesome. now i can relax and not burn my money. hopefully someday i can share this information too

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Typically there is a sticker on the underside of the hood with oil viscosity recommended for temperature ranges. If it is still there, that is.

If not, the Haynes and FSM manuals have this information.

But as others have said, 10W-30 winter, 20W-50 summer.

You can run synthetic with the metering oil pump if you want. It's an old myth you can't, based on early synthetics that may not have burned cleanly.