coolant problem
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When an engine gets hot, the coolant expands into the reservoir, when you turn the car off, the coolant contracts and fills the void with what was in the reservoir.
This design forces air out, and coolant in. If you keep ending up with copious amounts of air (as in setting off the low-coolant alarm) after a drive, and the coolant ending up in the reservoir, you either have a very unusual leak, or are in need of a coolant seal, which requires pulling the engine.
This design forces air out, and coolant in. If you keep ending up with copious amounts of air (as in setting off the low-coolant alarm) after a drive, and the coolant ending up in the reservoir, you either have a very unusual leak, or are in need of a coolant seal, which requires pulling the engine.
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Engine, Not Motor
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Stant thermostats seem to go bad, not Stant rad caps.
A good quality name brand rad cap of the appropriate pressure will be fine.
Now if you are experiencing these problems even after the replacements, then do a "bubble test". With the car stone cold, remove the coolant filler cap and start it up. Do you see a steady stream of bubbles from inside the engine? Now rev the engine. Do the bubbles increase? If the answers are "yes" then that is a strong indication of a bad coolant o-ring. Unfortunately, this requires a complete engine teardown to fix (think "blown head gasket").
A good quality name brand rad cap of the appropriate pressure will be fine.
Now if you are experiencing these problems even after the replacements, then do a "bubble test". With the car stone cold, remove the coolant filler cap and start it up. Do you see a steady stream of bubbles from inside the engine? Now rev the engine. Do the bubbles increase? If the answers are "yes" then that is a strong indication of a bad coolant o-ring. Unfortunately, this requires a complete engine teardown to fix (think "blown head gasket").
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ZaqAtaq
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09-05-15 08:57 PM