Hi guys,

I bought a accident RX7 turboII to use engine and transmission for my 69 Datsun roadtser/fairlady.
I removed all emissions and waiting to get the block-off plates.
Before I install the engine finally on the Datsun chassis I want to fire it up on a engine stand or bolt it on the chassis for testing.
I removed the whole wire harness from the accident car.

My question:
which wires can I remove or which I have to hold to fire up the engine?

For example. When I removed the tachometer I can´t start the car.



And I want to change the original fuelpump for a Bosch 044 if this intrests at this time.

thanks!

 

A disconnected tach won't prevent the car from starting.

The emissions harness (that is the main EFI harness) can be stripped down to the essentials to allow the engine to run with nothing but a + and - connection. You'l need to add wires to the harness as the coil and CAS wires in stock form were on the front and engine harness, so you'll need the other connector to plug into the ECU.

Grab a copy of the ECU wiring diagrams from the Haynes manual or FSM and it should be fairly clear what needs to be done. The only thing you need to run the engine are:

-Injectors
-AFM
-TPS
-BAC
-CAS
-Coils
-Pressure/boost sensor
-Variable resistor

 

thanks for your fast answer!
@long time ago when I start it up in the car so it could be a other car. my fault



until I fire it up, I will the replace the stock fuelpump by a bosch 044 intank.



Does I need a fuel pressure regulator for the swap or is there a original FPR on the fuel rail?

And what about this cracks on the hotside of the turbo. I read that there is no problem until it blows exhaust gases to the outside





And can I use the original Turbo on a aftermarket manifold without the twinscroll butterfly?

Thanks

 

the flange of the turbo is proprietary,meaning it is unique.So you must have It's manifold to match the turbo.Same with the S5 turbo,which is different than the s4.
An aftermarket T3 or T4 will not match either of the stock turbos.

 

okay I see - but I can weld a flange from the T3/T4 aftermarket manifold flange to the hitachi/original Turbo flange.

But are there any cons by doing this?

 

It's going to run rich with the Bosch pump, so an aftermarket FPR is required.

As for the cracks, they are normal. However as you suspect, they will get bigger and start causing gaskets to blow out.

If you can swap the flange, then go for it. It's just going to be very annoying to get a proper weld on 20+ year old oil-carbon-soaked high nitrile cast iron. Especially if you're welding to a stainless flange.