Carburetor Help
06-02-11, 11:09 PM
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Carburetor Help
I recent rebuilt a stock 1979 nikki carb(for my first ever carb rebuild) got it back together and installed, now when i try to start it ht pours gas into the chambers and i think it has something to do with the fuel bowl vent solenoid but im not sure so anything suggestions or knowledge would be very helpful
06-03-11, 11:06 AM
#3
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I agree, it sounds like the float needles aren't seating correctly. Are the float bowls full of fuel? They should be at the halfway point.
Unless you dropped the carb, or something severe happened like that, then you shouldn't have to adjust the floats. A lot of people run into trouble when they start tampering with them unnecessarily.
Check out www.sterlingmetalworks.com if you haven't yet. Lots of great info on these carbs.
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Unless you dropped the carb, or something severe happened like that, then you shouldn't have to adjust the floats. A lot of people run into trouble when they start tampering with them unnecessarily.
Check out www.sterlingmetalworks.com if you haven't yet. Lots of great info on these carbs.
.
06-03-11, 12:31 PM
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come to think of it it may have slipped my mind to reset the float level, is there any way it could be The float bowl vent solenoid? because from what i hear its a junkyard part to find
06-03-11, 01:19 PM
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seriously, unless the carb was dropped you shouldn't have to "set" the float bowl levels.
The vent solenoid (if faulty) would cause fuel to flow into the bowls after the engine was shut down. It has no effect while the engine is running.
Do you have the restrictor installed in the return line? Looks like a little metal thing halfway down the line from the carb to the firewall. Make sure it is installed in the correct direction to (not sure if it matters, but not sure it doesn't either).
One of the most common problems with a fresh rebuild is either flooding or fuel starvation. This is due to the finish on the new needle seats, which tends to make them get stuck. The usual process to eliminate this (prior to rebuild) is to buff the needles with some emery cloth before installation. To correct this after a build, you basically bang on the top of the carb with something that won't damage it until they shake loose and fall into place. They usually behave themselves after that.
The vent solenoid (if faulty) would cause fuel to flow into the bowls after the engine was shut down. It has no effect while the engine is running.
Do you have the restrictor installed in the return line? Looks like a little metal thing halfway down the line from the carb to the firewall. Make sure it is installed in the correct direction to (not sure if it matters, but not sure it doesn't either).
One of the most common problems with a fresh rebuild is either flooding or fuel starvation. This is due to the finish on the new needle seats, which tends to make them get stuck. The usual process to eliminate this (prior to rebuild) is to buff the needles with some emery cloth before installation. To correct this after a build, you basically bang on the top of the carb with something that won't damage it until they shake loose and fall into place. They usually behave themselves after that.
06-04-11, 09:55 PM
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ok thanks for the reply i really didnt want to have to take the whole top of the carb back off just to tap the needle back into place. so if i place a block of wood on top of the carb and give it a few good wacks with a mallet the needle should fall back in place?
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06-05-11, 06:12 PM
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hey thanks man the guy i bought the car from had the restricter on backwards and the hose where it meets the car was cut so after turning it the right way fixing the hose and knocking it around with a mallett it runs stronger than it was before we rebuilt it, again thank you guys for all your help, ill be asking alot more questions too ha
06-07-11, 01:47 PM
#10
seriously, unless the carb was dropped you shouldn't have to "set" the float bowl levels.
The vent solenoid (if faulty) would cause fuel to flow into the bowls after the engine was shut down. It has no effect while the engine is running.
Do you have the restrictor installed in the return line? Looks like a little metal thing halfway down the line from the carb to the firewall. Make sure it is installed in the correct direction to (not sure if it matters, but not sure it doesn't either).
One of the most common problems with a fresh rebuild is either flooding or fuel starvation. This is due to the finish on the new needle seats, which tends to make them get stuck. The usual process to eliminate this (prior to rebuild) is to buff the needles with some emery cloth before installation. To correct this after a build, you basically bang on the top of the carb with something that won't damage it until they shake loose and fall into place. They usually behave themselves after that.
The vent solenoid (if faulty) would cause fuel to flow into the bowls after the engine was shut down. It has no effect while the engine is running.
Do you have the restrictor installed in the return line? Looks like a little metal thing halfway down the line from the carb to the firewall. Make sure it is installed in the correct direction to (not sure if it matters, but not sure it doesn't either).
One of the most common problems with a fresh rebuild is either flooding or fuel starvation. This is due to the finish on the new needle seats, which tends to make them get stuck. The usual process to eliminate this (prior to rebuild) is to buff the needles with some emery cloth before installation. To correct this after a build, you basically bang on the top of the carb with something that won't damage it until they shake loose and fall into place. They usually behave themselves after that.
06-07-11, 05:12 PM
#11
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The float bowl vent solenoid is located at the front driver's side corner of the carb. It will have a single wire coming off it, with a bullet shaped plug on the end. Look right next to the alternator.
It requires 12 volts switched (only powered when key is on).
Good luck.
It requires 12 volts switched (only powered when key is on).
Good luck.
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