Was it carbon build up?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Was it carbon build up?
Things I tried before matters got worse: Between vacuum leaks and a bouncing idle, I went and replaced the stock coli with an msd coils for high vibration. Didn't solve any issues. Ran Sea Foam in a full tank and drove it pretty hard that day down thunder road. That was fun! Nothing solved though. Took apart the upper intake and throttle body and cleaned it real good so the carbon in there is gone. Somehow, mistakingly made a minor adjustment on the. TPS rod bolt thinking I was adjusting the idle. Tried to get it back where it was and not so sure I did calibrate correctly. Was going by the info in the manual that has a section for the fb but it didn't seem very thorough as I got into it fully. Of course made adjustments with the air fuel set screw on top and replaced the spark plugs and air filter. I'm second guessing now, the plugs that were suggested at the parts store. And after all that it still ran decent until one day I smelled something burning and pulled of to pop the hood. The mid cat was glowing red hot seen under the heat shield. If any of this sounds sceptical I'm curious what anyone thinks. There may be a few steps I've left out but I haven't driven it at all since the glowing cat thing. I have cranked it a few times just to make sure it would fire up and it has but I shut off within a minute or 2.
#2
Junior Member
Thread Starter
At this point I'm thinking to just delete air pump and exhaust. Go with racing beat full exhaust, air pump block off plate and double pulley. Might as well delete OMP while I'm at it. Does anyone have extra input on deleting more vacuum lines, and would it be wise to replace injectors too? Any part numbers for injectors would be helpful.
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I'm thinking it makes sense to delete any emissions that isn't necessary. If so, I should plan to have all the parts ready and spend the time all at once instead of a little at a time. Don't want to mess with the ECU although I'm concerned that may come up in the end. Also, I don't know if this will fix the idling issue. Should I be concerned with the fuel delivery system aside from injectors etc... Or will the throttle body need an upgrade as well. I'm not confident messing with wiring and don't want to throw of the ECU when I make these changes. I've heard that the SE is a complicated design and Want to be sure of the proper steps to take. Partly a budget issue and partly a time availability issue. Hope this all makes sense to read.
#5
Ancient Lurking Rotorhead
Engine is shot....
Same thing happened to me when mine went.
Do a compression test on the leading plugs, should be well above 75psi for a healthy engine.
Same thing happened to me when mine went.
Do a compression test on the leading plugs, should be well above 75psi for a healthy engine.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I certainly hope not. I do need a rotary compression tester tho. If I have to rebuild then I'll have the opportunity to do some porting. Not a bad thing. Most people just give up on em at that point and buy a piston engine car.
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IGermanDudeI
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
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10-11-17 03:28 AM