Bought a 1980. Few noob questions/problems - HELP?!
10-01-10, 03:29 AM
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Bought a 1980. Few noob questions/problems - HELP?!
So I bought a 1980 RX7 a few weeks ago. Really nice. Here's what I've come across so far.
Clutch pedal died, I replaced master and slave cyl. Drove 1500 miles, clutch fluid ran out, had to add/bleed. (after a nice little 2nd gear adventure in traffic) Are my new parts bad or could it be leaking somewhere? I cant find any leaks. I guess I want to know if this is a common problem.
When driving the car 1200 miles to VA, I started to get the "ADD COOLANT" light when going up the hills in PA. It would go away when I either jammed on the gas (I'm guessing the added fuel cooled it?) or if I pushed in the clutch and let it idle. At mid/high throttle it would come back on again. I have enough coolant, so what should I check next? Water pump? Sensor?
Also - I have a slightly flat spot mid throttle. Nothing too bad. That might have something to do with...
My exhaust leak. I get a pop after a hard throttle lift-off. I think it's a hole in my muffler - is there any cheap way to fix this or find a new exhaust system? I looked at a diagram of the 1980 exhaust and cried a little bit. I looked at aftermarket prices and cried harder.
I know these are a lot of newbie questions, but if I could even get an answer to one I would be ecstatic.
The car is so much fun and looks great. I'm hooked even with all these problems.
Thanks for listening!
Clutch pedal died, I replaced master and slave cyl. Drove 1500 miles, clutch fluid ran out, had to add/bleed. (after a nice little 2nd gear adventure in traffic) Are my new parts bad or could it be leaking somewhere? I cant find any leaks. I guess I want to know if this is a common problem.
When driving the car 1200 miles to VA, I started to get the "ADD COOLANT" light when going up the hills in PA. It would go away when I either jammed on the gas (I'm guessing the added fuel cooled it?) or if I pushed in the clutch and let it idle. At mid/high throttle it would come back on again. I have enough coolant, so what should I check next? Water pump? Sensor?
Also - I have a slightly flat spot mid throttle. Nothing too bad. That might have something to do with...
My exhaust leak. I get a pop after a hard throttle lift-off. I think it's a hole in my muffler - is there any cheap way to fix this or find a new exhaust system? I looked at a diagram of the 1980 exhaust and cried a little bit. I looked at aftermarket prices and cried harder.
I know these are a lot of newbie questions, but if I could even get an answer to one I would be ecstatic.
The car is so much fun and looks great. I'm hooked even with all these problems.
Thanks for listening!
10-01-10, 11:39 AM
#2
Wilhelm!
Sounds almost like my car did, I had a small leak in one of the hoses in my clutch line, it was just a loose connection, check all the clamps and seals closely just to make sure, i over looked my connection because it "looked" fine but wasnt lol.
I also had the same thing happen with the ADD COOLANT light, make sure there is a proper amount of coolant in the radiator and the overflow has at least coolant to the COLD mark. Also, check the wiring on the sensor, mine was right on the top of the radiator, the wiring was corroded and barely hanging on and that was what set off my coolant light randomly.
As for the exhaust leak, you can go to most local auto parts places and purchase either an exhaust PATCH that is like a putty almost with a wire mesh screen OR there is one that comes with an aluminum (or sheet metal) piece and some straps. I would try the sheet metal and straps and put the putty on top of that, make sure the area is VERY CLEAN or it wont stick well. The putty looks like crap but it will work for a while.
Keep in mind the patches are NOT long term repairs generally so eventually you may either continue re-applying the patch or just save up to buy a replacement.
There are many places that you can purchase mufflers through too.
Just a few for example are:
Autopartswarehouse.com (they are usually good)
carpartswholesale.com (they are also decent)
You may also just buy an aftermarket muffler at a local auto parts store for fairly cheap (i got one for 89 dollars) and you can either weld it on, or buy some exhaust clamps to put it on. If you go this route, make sure you buy the reducer/step up couplings to make it fit into your exhaust system.
Sorry it was a long response but i have had many cars that i have had to mess with the exhaust. Let me know if any of this helps hehe.
I also had the same thing happen with the ADD COOLANT light, make sure there is a proper amount of coolant in the radiator and the overflow has at least coolant to the COLD mark. Also, check the wiring on the sensor, mine was right on the top of the radiator, the wiring was corroded and barely hanging on and that was what set off my coolant light randomly.
As for the exhaust leak, you can go to most local auto parts places and purchase either an exhaust PATCH that is like a putty almost with a wire mesh screen OR there is one that comes with an aluminum (or sheet metal) piece and some straps. I would try the sheet metal and straps and put the putty on top of that, make sure the area is VERY CLEAN or it wont stick well. The putty looks like crap but it will work for a while.
Keep in mind the patches are NOT long term repairs generally so eventually you may either continue re-applying the patch or just save up to buy a replacement.
There are many places that you can purchase mufflers through too.
Just a few for example are:
Autopartswarehouse.com (they are usually good)
carpartswholesale.com (they are also decent)
You may also just buy an aftermarket muffler at a local auto parts store for fairly cheap (i got one for 89 dollars) and you can either weld it on, or buy some exhaust clamps to put it on. If you go this route, make sure you buy the reducer/step up couplings to make it fit into your exhaust system.
Sorry it was a long response but i have had many cars that i have had to mess with the exhaust. Let me know if any of this helps hehe.
10-01-10, 03:54 PM
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thats very helpful - thank you. I'll check the hoses and sensor today
the exhaust is very different on the 80 - I don't know if I can just weld up something aftermarket. I'll try and find a diagram but it's very different and specific. It's almost like it's dual all the way back except one pipe is way smaller than the other and they meet on this weird looking muffler. I'll do some more research and take pictures if I have to
i found a diagram in the blackdragonautomotive sales catalog, I might scan it later
the exhaust is very different on the 80 - I don't know if I can just weld up something aftermarket. I'll try and find a diagram but it's very different and specific. It's almost like it's dual all the way back except one pipe is way smaller than the other and they meet on this weird looking muffler. I'll do some more research and take pictures if I have to
i found a diagram in the blackdragonautomotive sales catalog, I might scan it later
Last edited by mar3; 10-05-10 at 11:12 PM. Reason: Merged back-to-back posts...
10-01-10, 05:59 PM
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Clutch master cylinders like to leak on the inside of the car.
Lay on your back with the top of your head touching the pedals... You'll see where the clutch pedal hooks up to the master cylinder. That's where I found my leak.
As far as the muffler patch goes, it will NOT pass Virginia state safety if they spot it. Get a new one.
I'm partial to the Bosal brand sold by Olympus Auto Parts, there is one in Merrifield, VA... 2812 Merrilee Dr # A-B, Fairfax - (703) 560-8500 is the contact info. Not cheap, but good quality stock parts.
Otherwise, you may look into an aftermarket exhaust from the engine back. Racing Beat is popular.
Lay on your back with the top of your head touching the pedals... You'll see where the clutch pedal hooks up to the master cylinder. That's where I found my leak.
As far as the muffler patch goes, it will NOT pass Virginia state safety if they spot it. Get a new one.
I'm partial to the Bosal brand sold by Olympus Auto Parts, there is one in Merrifield, VA... 2812 Merrilee Dr # A-B, Fairfax - (703) 560-8500 is the contact info. Not cheap, but good quality stock parts.
Otherwise, you may look into an aftermarket exhaust from the engine back. Racing Beat is popular.
10-01-10, 09:17 PM
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Racing beat is the only exhaust system I found for 79-80. If I make my own off the stock exhaust manifold back, will it work or will I need something special, like the RB header?
The exhaust looks wierd, but the racing beat one looks more normal. Meh, i dunno.
Luckily, my car is still registered in WI for the rest of the year or so, so I dont have to rock emissions for awhile.
Maybe I'll tighten my master cyl a little more and see if that seals it up. Looked at the hoses/lines and they seem ok inside the engine bay. Haven't checked my firewall/pedal area.
The exhaust looks wierd, but the racing beat one looks more normal. Meh, i dunno.
Luckily, my car is still registered in WI for the rest of the year or so, so I dont have to rock emissions for awhile.
Maybe I'll tighten my master cyl a little more and see if that seals it up. Looked at the hoses/lines and they seem ok inside the engine bay. Haven't checked my firewall/pedal area.
10-01-10, 09:19 PM
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did you replace the cylinders with new or used units?
youll be able to see the fluid where its leaking out, and if it gets on any paint it will pretty much dissolve it so its even more noticable lol
and yeah you can definitely make your own exhaust. just dont expect it to last unless its made good, these things get HOT
youll be able to see the fluid where its leaking out, and if it gets on any paint it will pretty much dissolve it so its even more noticable lol
and yeah you can definitely make your own exhaust. just dont expect it to last unless its made good, these things get HOT
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10-01-10, 09:27 PM
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yeah I saw those racing beat ones were expensive, but I'm sure they are made to last. Still searching for any other systems. I replaced the cyl with new ones. NAPA parts. I'm going to wait until tomorrow to look when its light out. If my master cyl wasn't tight enough down, would it leak out the back?
10-02-10, 10:28 PM
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Check at the slave cylinder too, another common place for leaks. You might have to pull the boot back on the slave to see if it's wet.
When the add coolant light comes on, what is the temp gauge reading?
.
When the add coolant light comes on, what is the temp gauge reading?
.
10-03-10, 11:44 AM
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25 years is the cutoff.
You will still need a safety (Sticker on the windsheld)... It's easy to do though... They just make sure the brakes and lights and stuff work.
Check here for more info:
https://www.rx7club.com/automotive-repair-lounge-280/state-inspection-standards-emissions-safety-795121/
I used to do VA state inspections.
10-04-10, 05:36 AM
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Legally, if you live in Virginia, you have to register the car here within 30 days and get your safety done immediately.
How long have you lived here?
How long have you lived here?
10-06-10, 03:45 AM
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about a week. I don't know if I'm going to stay or not or for how long. My permanent(billing) address is still in WI.
what do?
Haven't gotten it into the garage yet, still have to clean it. I took it for a drive today and it likes to stall and pop, so I'm going to look into adjusting the carb (never done that before so gotta do some research) The guy who owned it before me put a new carb on there but I'm guessing he didn't tune it well. I'd better get back to that garage.
played with the carb a bit, got rid of the hesitation a little bit.
found the leak - the seal between the master cylinder and it's fluid cup is crappy. Damn you NAPA. I'm gonna try and seal it up with something. I don't know what to use yet.
My "add coolant" light hasn't come back on yet... Temp guage seems normal.
Exhaust still likes to pop. Did some research and it sounds like this is a common thing on the old 1st gens. Took a quick look and found no leaks in the exhaust system...so is there anything I can do to minimize this or should I just enjoy it
what do?
Haven't gotten it into the garage yet, still have to clean it. I took it for a drive today and it likes to stall and pop, so I'm going to look into adjusting the carb (never done that before so gotta do some research) The guy who owned it before me put a new carb on there but I'm guessing he didn't tune it well. I'd better get back to that garage.
played with the carb a bit, got rid of the hesitation a little bit.
found the leak - the seal between the master cylinder and it's fluid cup is crappy. Damn you NAPA. I'm gonna try and seal it up with something. I don't know what to use yet.
My "add coolant" light hasn't come back on yet... Temp guage seems normal.
Exhaust still likes to pop. Did some research and it sounds like this is a common thing on the old 1st gens. Took a quick look and found no leaks in the exhaust system...so is there anything I can do to minimize this or should I just enjoy it
Last edited by mar3; 10-16-10 at 12:50 PM. Reason: Merged back-to-back posts...
10-09-10, 10:34 AM
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you might be able to buy a new O ring or something to seal that cup. I know you can buy a new cup and it's not very expensive, try that maybe.
the pop after hard throttle lift off is pretty normal. even my 86 does it, just enjoy it :P
the pop after hard throttle lift off is pretty normal. even my 86 does it, just enjoy it :P
10-12-10, 11:37 AM
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So.. my choke won't stick at the halfway point, so I have to make sure it's super warmed up before use. Ugh.
Also, I'm looking to reduce my exhaust pop, which I've explained a bit more https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/exhaust-pop-topic-925888/
there ^^
It keeps doing it on hard and medium throttle lift offs. Wondering if removing the thermal reactor (for a header) or removing other emissions crap would help. If anyone has an SA, please chime in!
Also, I'm looking to reduce my exhaust pop, which I've explained a bit more https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/exhaust-pop-topic-925888/
there ^^
It keeps doing it on hard and medium throttle lift offs. Wondering if removing the thermal reactor (for a header) or removing other emissions crap would help. If anyone has an SA, please chime in!
10-12-10, 12:33 PM
#17
Waffles - hmmm good
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Racing Beat will last longer than the car. So don't fear paying the bucks for it as its
well worth it. Very thick wall tubing and well made.
As far as the exhaust and popping goes, since Pele says you don't need emissions
in VA after 25 years, ditch the TR and go header and replace the rest of the exhaust
as well. Can't go wrong with RB but stay away from cheap headers and fiberglass
packed mufflers or silencers as they will melt away and you'll be redoing the exhaust
again.
Rotaries tend to backfire on decel, its just their nature. Its one of the things I like
because its so distinctive. The RB exhaust will keep it to a very reasonable noise
level.
well worth it. Very thick wall tubing and well made.
As far as the exhaust and popping goes, since Pele says you don't need emissions
in VA after 25 years, ditch the TR and go header and replace the rest of the exhaust
as well. Can't go wrong with RB but stay away from cheap headers and fiberglass
packed mufflers or silencers as they will melt away and you'll be redoing the exhaust
again.
Rotaries tend to backfire on decel, its just their nature. Its one of the things I like
because its so distinctive. The RB exhaust will keep it to a very reasonable noise
level.
10-16-10, 04:17 PM
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If you are buying the Racing Beat exhaust, then it will come with all of the required blockoff plates and good instructions. After that, just remove the air pump and you are good to go.
10-28-10, 05:02 PM
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The exhaust on my SA pops the same way, and it has been for a long time. It is part of the reason they don't get great gas mileage, but it won't hurt you to leave it be. It won't hurt unless you have a hole in the muffler. Cheap mufflers WILL melt. They WILL melt and they WILL MELT FAST.
10-29-10, 09:49 PM
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hmm... mine's LOUD unless it warms up, like a shotgun. I don't see an exhaust leak? I'm guessing the when the air from the air pump hits the leftover gas in the exhaust it just blows there?
10-30-10, 10:08 AM
#23
On the coolant light issue:
There is another cause for the coolant light, (one that I have never heard presented here on the forum by the way) especially if it just barely comes on dimly or just flickers, is that you may be in the prelimanary stages of an electrical problem such as a bad battery of altenator failure. Several times through the years I noticed that mine would do this and the next thing I knew I was buying a battery. I think it was the result of low voltage in the system. The SAs are well known to have a marginal charging system.
There is another cause for the coolant light, (one that I have never heard presented here on the forum by the way) especially if it just barely comes on dimly or just flickers, is that you may be in the prelimanary stages of an electrical problem such as a bad battery of altenator failure. Several times through the years I noticed that mine would do this and the next thing I knew I was buying a battery. I think it was the result of low voltage in the system. The SAs are well known to have a marginal charging system.
10-30-10, 04:27 PM
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Clutch problem: I have seen problems in various cars, sometimes a very fine small fracture can occur within the metal line, which usually results in a dead clutch over a short period after bleeding again for more pressure. You replaced both cylinders already go ahead and do the line too
11-01-10, 07:49 PM
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On the coolant light issue:
There is another cause for the coolant light, (one that I have never heard presented here on the forum by the way) especially if it just barely comes on dimly or just flickers, is that you may be in the prelimanary stages of an electrical problem such as a bad battery of altenator failure. Several times through the years I noticed that mine would do this and the next thing I knew I was buying a battery. I think it was the result of low voltage in the system. The SAs are well known to have a marginal charging system.
There is another cause for the coolant light, (one that I have never heard presented here on the forum by the way) especially if it just barely comes on dimly or just flickers, is that you may be in the prelimanary stages of an electrical problem such as a bad battery of altenator failure. Several times through the years I noticed that mine would do this and the next thing I knew I was buying a battery. I think it was the result of low voltage in the system. The SAs are well known to have a marginal charging system.
Dammit. My Battery just died too.
lol
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