Any hints for removing needle seats in '83 Nikki?
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Any hints for removing needle seats in '83 Nikki?
Ok, I give up - I'm in the process of rebuilding my carb ('83 bone-stock Nikki) and am being thwarted by the needle seats in the air horn. I cannot get them to budge:
I've tried a very large screwdriver in the top-slot - it wants to cam out. I have not buggered them up yet, but that would seem to be the certain result if I continue that approach.
I've tried a drill bit through the holes in the body - the bit flexes to the point I'm sure it'll just break off if I go much further.
I have a lathe and mill, so if something can be made I'm up for that...
I considered a bolt, hollowed out to fit over the seat with holes that lined up with the holes in the seat, then put a pin through everything -- That way the pin wouldn't be able to bend (would have to shear). But, there is very little room between the seat and the boss which the float mounts to.
Please let me in on the secret!
Thanks.
I've tried a very large screwdriver in the top-slot - it wants to cam out. I have not buggered them up yet, but that would seem to be the certain result if I continue that approach.
I've tried a drill bit through the holes in the body - the bit flexes to the point I'm sure it'll just break off if I go much further.
I have a lathe and mill, so if something can be made I'm up for that...
I considered a bolt, hollowed out to fit over the seat with holes that lined up with the holes in the seat, then put a pin through everything -- That way the pin wouldn't be able to bend (would have to shear). But, there is very little room between the seat and the boss which the float mounts to.
Please let me in on the secret!
Thanks.
#3
Have RX-7, will restore
iTrader: (91)
I've used vice grips to grab the body and turn them enough to be able to use a screwdriver. Its barbaric but its worked. I've also heated the area around the seats with map gas for a few seconds and have been able to remove them with a large flathead screwdriver. They can sometimes be tough to remove.
#4
Full Member
Thread Starter
Got them out today!
I ended up using O1 steel to make a blade that would just fit the slot, then put a 10mm hex on the back so I could hit it with a small impact drill. It got them out pretty quickly - although it did chip one of the rims:
I ended up using O1 steel to make a blade that would just fit the slot, then put a 10mm hex on the back so I could hit it with a small impact drill. It got them out pretty quickly - although it did chip one of the rims:
The following 2 users liked this post by Kizmit99:
diabolical1 (06-17-21),
mazdaverx713b (06-18-21)
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mazdaverx713b (06-18-21)
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