Yeah.. what it says.. anye one any tricks for this? I ve tried the damn biggest screwdriver I own and cant get the damn things to budge.. i managed to strip a part of one of them

 

hmm. found this in one of sterlings posts..

"Use a drill bit (shank end) to remove and install the needle seats by inserting through the cross-drilled holes and turning. Tighten the new ones the same way. Be certain there is an aluminum washer under both of them when reinstalling."

tried that bent the drill bit......

 

They can be a real PITA!
The aluminum is soft- ...the "brittle" kind of soft.
You have to be very careful with the carb top, yet you have to really crank on it sometimes!

Try tapping the brass sideways in three directions. Hit it only with the same force that you could stand hitting your finger while flat on a table.
This means just a tap! I believe the aluminum crush washer between the needle seat and the carb top is doing its job very well, that's all! As those crush washers are compressed, not only do they seal, but because they are recessed into where the seat screws in, those washers in particular have no room for expansion when they're squished. The keep things rather tight.
Soaking will probably get you nowhere.
It'll come. Just don't ever put the carb top in jeoprady...no vice, vice grips, hammers, ect.

 

You could also tap an ez-out into the seat and then just turn it out with a wrench. That's assuming that you are planning to replace the seat, as it will damage the seat.

 

ha.. I finally got it.. woke up this AM and had a great idea.. Lets get the GF to help.. I grabbed the flathead and the drill bit and told her to twist the flathead while I twised the drillbit and finally it popped! Now i can finish putting this damn thing back together.

 

ah ****.. now i have another problem.. i just looked down at my work area and this brass colored spring seems to have just appeared its about an inch long and pretty thin.. anyone have any idea what this went to...

 

If it's really tiny then it's from the needle assembly.
Guessing it's about 3/32 diameter by about 7/16ths long?

If you have removed the float bowl vent solenoid, then it could be the plunger-valve spring...very thin wire, about 1/4 inch diameter by about 5/8ths long and only having between 7-10 winds.
If it's about 5/16ths inch diameter, 5/8th-3/4 inch long adding a long hooked tail at each end and tightly wound, it's probably the choke linkage spring.

 

...There's also a hefty wire, 1/4 inch diameter, about 5/8ths long, 5-6 winds- it goes under the mixture screw.
Older carbs have a fast idle setting as well that utilizes a similar, though bigger spring, and then there's alo the idle screw spring built just as hefty. They're all just for anti-vibration.

 

thanks sterling.. i think i got everything back together correctly except it wont start.. i noticed that the throttle controls dont do anything.. when I pull on them by hand they just rotate but the rest of the shaft stays stationary... whats the deal with that? do these have to be wound around the shaft a certain amount for them to work? if so I think i just untwisted them and could fix it by retwisting them around until they catch and turn the shaft? hmm.

 

I can't tell without a picture. Sounds like you don't have the linkage parts stacked correctly or the nut is really lose (or was) enough to let the cable parts spin by the t-shaft stop part.

 

Ok.. ill check that out.. im sure once I pull the carb back off I can figure it out... But for now im off to vegas for a week so i'll pick this back up next week.

 

Win some cash so you can buy a carb from me!

 

Ok.. hmm not quite sure how to describe this but here goes..

The two cresent shaped pieces on the throttle shaft have to travel quite a ways before they make contact with the piece that actually turns the shaft and then when the shaft does start to turn it wont open all the way...

 

Ok i got that figured out.. so umm now I can't get the car to idle lower than 2K and I still get a stumble when I hit the gas... any suggestions?

 

For the idle problem, are you sure you got all the linkage back in right? OR are you saying it dies if you adjust idle below 2k? In that case you probably have a vacuum leak.

The stumble is probably caused by a mis adjusted AP.
Look here for the how to. http://www.pbandjracing.com/
Sorry I havent uploaded the pics yet, been really busy.

 

hehe.. i'll clarify.. it is not possible to get the idle below 2000.. I turn the idle adjust screw and it just doesnt do anything.. I noticed that if I goto the other side of the car and pull up a little on the plate that the spring that has a nice rubber cover is attached to that the idle goes down but as soon as I let go it goes back up...

 

Sounds like you FUBAR'd the linkage somehow. How much of that did you take apart?

 

You may have bent the bracket that the deceleration pot works against. It's supposed to stop the throttle from snapping closed when you lift quickly. It's the black plastic pot with a rod coming out pushing against one of the throttle bracket plates right next to the area where the throttle cable is actually attached to the carb, topside....where's a pic when you need one? DF!!

If it's been bent, it's pushing against the linkage keeping your butterflies open...

 

Mario, the black plastic pot is the A/C throttle opener. The dashpot is "gold" annodized color, with a white plastic tit sticking out the bottom end. However, he may be right, that may be stopping you throttle from closing, the dashpot, not the black plastic A/C opener.

 

Ok i think i got it.. a couple of the throttle wires were a bit too tight.. now if I could only figure out that accelerator pump thing!

 

Do you have a good pump shot coming out of the nozzels? If so, it may be adjusted to too much.

 

www.pbandjracing.com Look in teh tech section.

 

ah. yay i got it stupid me was missing a hose so I had a huge vaccume leak. haha. And wow the car is sooo smooth and quick now.. ok off to rebuild my other carb. thanks for the help guys!