Hi Guys,

I have been asking this question to a lot of people and keep on getting a different answer.

My clutch on my RX7 FD3S twin turbo stock has been slipping for quiet a while now but yesterday just took its toll and cant rev it more than 3k Revs as it slips big time... I went in and quickly bought a second hand clutch:











Given that I am a noob I did not know that I had to buy a counterweight as I have to change the flywheel.

so I went to ask several people about this and got several replies. one of which (and does make sense in my head) hit me a bit cause I was told that if I change flywheel and add counterweight Ideally you balance out the front counterweight along with Rotors, krank Flywheel and counterweight.

Here are my questions:
- Why can't I use my Flywheel and just connect new clutch to it?
- Why do I need to change the flywheel as well?
- If I have no choice but to change to the new flywheel is it true I have to balance the whole engine? Can't I just plug and play?

need help on this as I can't get this around my head....

Thanks guys

 

Well #1 issue is that looks like a lightened flywheel

The other issue is you didn't state what series of car you have, or if its a n/a or t2

 

it is an RX7 FD3S

 

i can only guess that the setup u bought is claimed to actually fit the yr model of what u have. if the engine in the car still retains the stock flywheel, then yes u will need the rear counter weight to use the whole setup. stock flywheel has one big hole in the center and a tapper fit to the end of the e-shaft. the counter weight fits that tapper but allows that flywheel to mount to it using the six bolt holes. at the very least u could just swap out the clutch disk. current pressure plate should clamp on it just fine, or just swap out the disk and pressure plate. it really depends on how many times ur willing to pull the trans if one way doesn't work.

 

I find no issue in changing the flywheel of the car to fit the new clutch... but is it true that I have to balance the whole thing out before? like dismantling the engine?

I mean I had other cars were I just changed flywheel and clutch with no balancing... they are still on the road... my question is can you get an aftermarket flywheel, counterweight and clutch and instal it directly to the engine and does no harm to it?

will it destroy my engine?

 

Look at the back of the engine at the Flywheel.
IF the flywheel connects to the engine with ONE BIG NUT in the center then Yes you need the appropriate counterweight to put the after market flywheel on.
You can use an AUTOMATIC TRANS counterweight to place the flywheel onto the engine...OR you can buy the Counterweight..
Either way the ONLY way thet this counterweight goes on is In Place of the Flywheel(attaches with that one big *** nut)..THEN you put the Flywheel TO the Counterweight with the SIX bolts.
NO you do not need to balance the Freakin engine and what not to put the flywheel on.So YES you can just grab the APPROPRIATE FD counterweight and flywheel and place them on the engine..
*I say FD as there are other Counterweights out there for other Rotary vehicles.

and you have to take the trans and separate it from the engine..Not dismantle the engine.The engine stays as a Big old Fart factory..lol!

 

I have to ask, if the clutch was slipping with the old flywheel and you are a noob, why did you buy a used clutch and why did you buy one with a light flywheel?

A lightweight flywheel will slip more then the stock one. Best bet would have been to purchase a stock style clutch/pressure plate along with a throwout bearing and call it a day.

 

When I bought my light flywhell, act clutch and presure plate I but the counterweight , of course I was new to all that. It's pain in the rear to drive around town with it, but other than that I like it, cause I don't burn tires on take off, it just go. + tain drag street/drag coilovers. Get the whole set.

 

Hopefully that clutch and Pressure plate is for the FD. If so I suggest you use it with the STOCK flywheel that's in the car. If your old clutch is slipping there will likely be some hot spots on the stock FW but it shouldn't cost much to have it turned/machined. Probably less than the counter weight will cost, especially if you have to source the hardened bolts to mount it and pay shipping. Besides...that aftermarket FW doesn't look very pristine.
Good time to replace the throw-out bearing, pilot bearing and rear transmission seal too as a preventative step. Maybe $100 for everything.

And no, you do NOT need to balance the engine if using the proper counter weight and a lightened flywheel. But be careful if going that route as the counterweights from different generations can look very similar.

 

Maybe I'm misunderstanding you, but you don't need drag radials or suspension with a lightened FW. And if it's a pain it may be because you went TOO light for a street driven car.

 

True for where I live now, st Augustine, f l.. unless I am on the high way.

 

I apologize if I went off the topic giving details on my set up.

 

I wasn't trying to high jack,.

 

since no one actually answered the last and most important question:

no, you don't NEED to use that flywheel, you can just use your stock one.

 

I bought a second hand clutch with its flywheel as seen in the picture. The stock flywheel is still on my FD... also I could only afford a second hand clutch and FW

 

this is what I was looking for

 

^FWIW that was also covered in post 9.
Cost and price are two different things.

 

I do not understand what you mean

 

There was a PRICE you paid for that clutch disc, PP and FW. It's likely you didn't need a puck clutch and didn't need the FW at all. And to use the FW you'll need to spend a lot more to purchase and ship a counter-weight and needed bolts. So the COST of that purchase was a lot more. Although it may have been at a higher PRICE, the ultimate COST of simply buying a proper clutch kit for your car likely would have been less.

 

This is an excellent point. Rock Auto has clutches in stock for any rotary, period. Pretty sure it'd be less expensive to go that route, especially regarding your wrench time to install it. I for one value my wrench time quite a bit, so I stick with ACT when it comes to an upgraded clutch. T2 & FD use the same clutch disc too.

Just noticed the blue painted pressure plate in the picture. Please do yourself a favor and throw it in the trash where it belongs, it's a no-name eBay part. Rotary cars, especially FDs don't put up with cutting corners. Plus, if it did decide to disintegrate from poor workmanship, it would be hurling its components at 8000rpm right at your nuts

If your flywheel is beyond use, I have one that you can have for free. Came off a friend's FD in favor of a lightweight setup for a single turbo build. Got a stock FD clutch somewhere too if all else fails. All I needed were measurements from it for a T56 conversion.