Single turbo help/readiness
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Single turbo help/readiness
So Addicted Performance is developing a EFR single turbo kit and I wanted to know eat are some thing I should do to get my 93 FD ready for a 8374 or 9180?
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
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Compression is good. Only 9k on rebuild. No real mods yet just. 13bre manifold, high flow cat, racing beat exhaust, RW throttle body.
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#5
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Im going to assume that the kit will include a downpipe, intercooler, and an intake and that the car is fully caught up on maintenance.
Before you think about power start with upgrading your cooling system and ECU:
Koyo Rad, Dual Oil coolers, metal AST, upgraded thermostat, and a Power FC for ECU
After cooling mods:
Upgraded injectors, upgraded fuel pump, Ignition Amp, Upgraded Clutch, and some Hawk brake pads
For more power AFTER the other mods I mentioned:
Get a more free flowing catback, lightweight pulleys, lightweight flywheel, and water/meth injection
Before you think about power start with upgrading your cooling system and ECU:
Koyo Rad, Dual Oil coolers, metal AST, upgraded thermostat, and a Power FC for ECU
After cooling mods:
Upgraded injectors, upgraded fuel pump, Ignition Amp, Upgraded Clutch, and some Hawk brake pads
For more power AFTER the other mods I mentioned:
Get a more free flowing catback, lightweight pulleys, lightweight flywheel, and water/meth injection
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Im going to assume that the kit will include a downpipe, intercooler, and an intake and that the car is fully caught up on maintenance.
Before you think about power start with upgrading your cooling system and ECU:
Koyo Rad, Dual Oil coolers, metal AST, upgraded thermostat, and a Power FC for ECU
After cooling mods:
Upgraded injectors, upgraded fuel pump, Ignition Amp, Upgraded Clutch, and some Hawk brake pads
For more power AFTER the other mods I mentioned:
Get a more free flowing catback, lightweight pulleys, lightweight flywheel, and water/meth injection
Before you think about power start with upgrading your cooling system and ECU:
Koyo Rad, Dual Oil coolers, metal AST, upgraded thermostat, and a Power FC for ECU
After cooling mods:
Upgraded injectors, upgraded fuel pump, Ignition Amp, Upgraded Clutch, and some Hawk brake pads
For more power AFTER the other mods I mentioned:
Get a more free flowing catback, lightweight pulleys, lightweight flywheel, and water/meth injection
And for a ECU, my brother has a guy haltech so I yhink I'm going for a 1500.
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#8
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
Lighter flywheel is not needed, but if you want the trade of( do a rese arch on it if you don know by now). New clutch and presure plate is good idea. Suspension, with more power you need a good way to transfer that power to the ground. Need boost controler. Take a look to some builds in the forum. Do it right from the begining, be patient and have some money handy.
#9
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
"No real mods yet"? Not certain of the need for a RotaryWorks TB and RE manifold, but those are pretty significant mods.
Other stuff not yet mentioned that I can think of off-hand....
*Poly motor mounts if you don't have them. OEM won't last.
*A good SMIC or VMIC. Both will probably require battery relocation.
*I agree with a stronger-than-stock clutch, but with that I'd replace the clutch fork. They have a tendency to fatigue and fail with time and stiffer pressure plates. Good time to replace throw-out and pilot bearings too.
*Have the manifold and DP heat-coated. At minimum header wrapped.
*Not much advantage to lightweight pulleys, but I would NOT use underdrive pulleys without an idler pulley to replace the airpump.
Other stuff not yet mentioned that I can think of off-hand....
*Poly motor mounts if you don't have them. OEM won't last.
*A good SMIC or VMIC. Both will probably require battery relocation.
*I agree with a stronger-than-stock clutch, but with that I'd replace the clutch fork. They have a tendency to fatigue and fail with time and stiffer pressure plates. Good time to replace throw-out and pilot bearings too.
*Have the manifold and DP heat-coated. At minimum header wrapped.
*Not much advantage to lightweight pulleys, but I would NOT use underdrive pulleys without an idler pulley to replace the airpump.
#10
Regardless of all the above, which is great information, the turbos you mention are quite large so I wouldn't even bother running them on a stock engine......the stock ports matched with those turbo choices aren't optimal. Atleast you'd want to think of running street ported irons.
#12
Yeah OP should be a bit more specific. I'm running the efr 8374 and there's no way he can maximise the potential on factory ports....those are made for mid to top end power.....so maybe posting your power goals would help us direct correct advice for you