about to buy turbo 2 , what do i need to look out for
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about to buy turbo 2 , what do i need to look out for
hey, im new here and i posted on craigslist that i wtb a rx7 and this guy messaged me with a 1988 turbo II, i know nothing about a rotary engine, i just want to know what are some things i need to look out for. the he is asking for 2500 dollars and it has "68000" original miles supposedly, the body and interior are alittle rough, i also want to know what a car like this in this condition would go for
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Going off the engine bay picture it "looks" like the guy knew what he was doing, silicone radiator hoses, efan, aluminum radiator.
Really the price isn't horrible IMO. My first step would be to go look at it, make sure it starts cold, take it for a drive, make sure everything works, then when done driving, shut it off, and make sure it starts right back up, then compression test it
I paid 3 grand for my 88 N/A with 88K on the clock
Really the price isn't horrible IMO. My first step would be to go look at it, make sure it starts cold, take it for a drive, make sure everything works, then when done driving, shut it off, and make sure it starts right back up, then compression test it
I paid 3 grand for my 88 N/A with 88K on the clock
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The price seems very reasonable assuming the engine is in good working order. This link is from a very knowledgeable rx7club member. How To Buy An '86-'92 Turbo RX-7
lots of good info on his site
lots of good info on his site
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well, i ended up buying the car. the car runs and drives amazing. the interior is in good condition, i thought it was rough from the pics he sent me. only problems with the car is the lip on the bumper is cracked off, needs paint, and the passenger window will not roll up unless someone is there pushing it up when i press the button. im very happy with the car and i ended up paying $2000 for the car. it also has a full 3inch exhaust that is not that loud, i think it sounds amazing. also has a boost guage, greddy bov, efan, all hoses were replaced with silicone ones, he just had the brake pads and rotors replaced the day before i got the car, i even went to the shop he had it at and saw them changing them and there is a few other things that were done that i cant think of.
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With that exhaust, you need to make sure that your boost is not exceeding your fuel capability!
There is factory fuel cut at 8.8 PSI. So if you can make more boost than that without the engine shutting down, then either the ECU has been replaced or there is an FCD. FCDs are dangerous, period. But less dangerous if the fuel system has been upgraded.
There is factory fuel cut at 8.8 PSI. So if you can make more boost than that without the engine shutting down, then either the ECU has been replaced or there is an FCD. FCDs are dangerous, period. But less dangerous if the fuel system has been upgraded.
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With that exhaust, you need to make sure that your boost is not exceeding your fuel capability!
There is factory fuel cut at 8.8 PSI. So if you can make more boost than that without the engine shutting down, then either the ECU has been replaced or there is an FCD. FCDs are dangerous, period. But less dangerous if the fuel system has been upgraded.
There is factory fuel cut at 8.8 PSI. So if you can make more boost than that without the engine shutting down, then either the ECU has been replaced or there is an FCD. FCDs are dangerous, period. But less dangerous if the fuel system has been upgraded.
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Do you not have a boost gauge?
The S4 wastegate is very undersized. Most certainly upgrading the exhaust has caused the boost to raise.
As for an FCD, look for a small box near the boost sensor. Sometimes they are also installed at the ECU. Might even say FCD on it.
The S4 wastegate is very undersized. Most certainly upgrading the exhaust has caused the boost to raise.
As for an FCD, look for a small box near the boost sensor. Sometimes they are also installed at the ECU. Might even say FCD on it.
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Last edited by Devon300zx; 04-26-15 at 01:41 PM.
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Actually, the engine is far safer WITH the factory fuel cut in place unless it can be confirmed the fuel system has been upgraded to handle the increased boost.
An FCD does not add fuel. In fact, it fools the ECU to think that boost is just below 8.8 PSI regardless of the pressure. While the ECU does add fuel according to the AFM, timing is still advanced as that is mainly a function of the pressure sensor.
FCDs are EVIL when used incorrectly. Thing is, how much boost does this car make? If it's right around 8 - 10 PSI, then it is likely safe. If any more, then either boost has to be lowered or fuel increased.
An FCD does not add fuel. In fact, it fools the ECU to think that boost is just below 8.8 PSI regardless of the pressure. While the ECU does add fuel according to the AFM, timing is still advanced as that is mainly a function of the pressure sensor.
FCDs are EVIL when used incorrectly. Thing is, how much boost does this car make? If it's right around 8 - 10 PSI, then it is likely safe. If any more, then either boost has to be lowered or fuel increased.
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nice car for that price! is it a name brand exhaust or a custom? exhaust alone for these cars can run upwards of $800 for something nice ie: racing beat, ect
leave the fuel cut defender on and leave the boost alone.
if you feel you need to tinker start with fuel pump, injectors and RTek.
don't play with any stupid boost controllers
leave the fuel cut defender on and leave the boost alone.
if you feel you need to tinker start with fuel pump, injectors and RTek.
don't play with any stupid boost controllers
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Actually, the engine is far safer WITH the factory fuel cut in place unless it can be confirmed the fuel system has been upgraded to handle the increased boost.
An FCD does not add fuel. In fact, it fools the ECU to think that boost is just below 8.8 PSI regardless of the pressure. While the ECU does add fuel according to the AFM, timing is still advanced as that is mainly a function of the pressure sensor.
FCDs are EVIL when used incorrectly. Thing is, how much boost does this car make? If it's right around 8 - 10 PSI, then it is likely safe. If any more, then either boost has to be lowered or fuel increased.
An FCD does not add fuel. In fact, it fools the ECU to think that boost is just below 8.8 PSI regardless of the pressure. While the ECU does add fuel according to the AFM, timing is still advanced as that is mainly a function of the pressure sensor.
FCDs are EVIL when used incorrectly. Thing is, how much boost does this car make? If it's right around 8 - 10 PSI, then it is likely safe. If any more, then either boost has to be lowered or fuel increased.
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