Dragon25

I own a 93 Rx7(60k miles) been sitting in storage for years. Totally revamping the cooling system, since I'm sick of heating issues. That I've resided to build her up and stop sticking to stock stuff.

So first off I've just ordered a new racing radiator with upgraded cooling fans, and a new air separator aluminum water tank. Which comes with a pressure cap, which why I think my car was over heating before. Didn't explode or anything. Just after the thermostat open up water would pour out of the air separator fill cap. Now looking to also get ordered a oil cooler or two. Currently only have one on the driver side.

So questions now...
First- how big of a oil cooler can I fit into a 93 your package Rx7 with the stock front in( haven't resided on a after market one yet)???

Secondly- which fitting size should I go with and hoses. Keep seeing An10 is that a good size or tell me your recommendations?

Thirdly- how hard is it to pop out the plastic cap and add a additional oil cooler? Just link them together before going back to the engine. Or it harder than that or should be done differently?

Well thanks for your guy's time, and love to gain knowledge from other enthusiasts. Always the best way to learn on a rotary I've came to realize, only so much you can learn online.

Dragon25

Anyone?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

If you want to focus on cooling that's great. But "sticking to stock stuff" can actually be the best route. A couple of points..
*Not sure what a "racing radiator" is. The stock radiator was efficient for a stock car, it's just that the plastic end tanks got fragile with age and heat. Adding an all aluminum radiator is a reliability mod. But there are some cheezy aftermarket ones with poor fitment and performance. Add one with a proven history and proper fitment with the STOCK FAN ASSEMBLY....Fluidyne, Koyo, PWR are a few.
*The stock dual fan assembly and system is reliable, efficient and moves a crap-load of air. There's almost no chance an aftermaket one is going to be as good. You shoud keep it.
*If your car is stock it probably still has the stock fan thermoswitch. One exception to keeping stock would be to consider replacing it with an S5 FC thermoswitch. It changes the threshold temperature for turning the stock fans on from 108 C. to 95 C. Plug-n-play swap, but check the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL for more info.
*If the car's been sitting a long time, drain and flush the system. There is a drain plug on the left (driver's) side of the block in the center iron as well as the radiator. Check the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL.
*Use as much distilled water to coolant as you can safely get away with in your climate. The more water, the better cooling. When you re-fill, properly 'burp' the system of air. Search in this section and/or the 3rd Gen. section for more info, but getting air out is important.
*Install a new OEM thermostat
*Check ALL coolant hoses for condition. That includes the turbo coolant lines, which will swell and leak with age and heat. If you need to replace any, use OEM. They fit and last a long time. Use only OEM clamps.
*If you're going to change one cap, change 'em both.
* DO NOT rely on the factory temperature gauge. It's not linear and worthless as a reference. Get a decent aftermarket gauge.
*Clean the front and back of your A/C condensor.
*Metal AST...check.
*IIRC, oil is only responsible for 15% to 25% of cooling. For a street driven car the stock dual oil coolers are plenty. Check the PARTS FOR SALE section for a set of 'R' model coolers. They come up every so often and with the ducts and will be bolt-on with no AN fittings to mess with. And like radiator fans, a cooler will only be as good as the duct.

fallen751

As far as oil coolers go, Sakebomb Garage makes a great kit here. I have one for my FD and I love it. Personally, unless you are aiming for a high HP all day track car that the 19 row Setrab coolers are plenty. The kit comes with all the mounting brackets, etc... and the quality has been top notch.

You can also build a dual oil cooler kit by ordering everything separately, just search the forums.

Lastly, if you want to do it on the cheap you use a spare driver's side oil cooler on the passengers side with a bit of modification (I think Howard Coleman pioneered this method, see here.

Dragon25

Thanks guys, love the advise. Already ordered a new three core/row racing radiator after a ton of research. Even comes with a huge warranty even after being installed which I noticed is really rare. No epoxy either, all high end aluminum. Also ordered a new air separator, since the new radiator don't have a full cap. Was going to remove it, but I figure it gave me more water volume. The new air separator off a rotary site, and comes with a pressure type real ease cap. So it don't over flow out of the new one like it did with the second plastic one on my car.

Currently the car only got one oil cooler, wanted to get two. I swore I read the rotary is more oil cooled over water cooked. Since the oil inside of the engine where the heat is. Why I was also thinking of upgrading the oil pan, and maybe getting a oil reserve. Good idea do you think? Free car is stock, but planing on building her over time. Just figured the cooling system was a good place to start the upgrades. Since rotaries are know for overheating.

I did check or replace the stock thermostats, but ill look into switching it out since you said something. Wanted the fans to come on earlier anyways, so a very good idea/advise. Also did replaced one bloated hose off the turbo that started to leak before I parked it, I'll have go through them and recheck them. Is there any place you can get silicone replacements for those smaller hoses, like off the air separator too? Wanting to talkie and do the rats best soon. One thing at a time though.