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My wife has owned a 93 FD3 for over 20 years. It has been garaged kept, but sitting for upwards of 10 years; all stock drivetrain. I want to get it back to life. I am pretty good with car stuff, but this is a whole new ball game. I would like to know what should be checked, and done before I attempt to start it back up.
ie: oil change (what is recommended fluid is recommended or required)
drain fuel and put fresh 93 octane
should I flush fuel lines?
replace spark plugs? What model/part # is recommended?
If there is anything else that should be checked and done, please let me know.
*Roll the car outside and drain the gas. The tank should have a drain.
*Make sure the oil level and coolant level is full.
*Replace with 3 or 4 gallons of fresh and some good fuel system cleaner. I like BG44k or the Chevron Techron stuff. 93 is great but if it’s stock 91 is fine.
*Pull the leading plugs (lower plugs) on each housing. Squirt a little 2-cycle oil (maybe a tablespoon) into each housing. If the plugs don’t look fouled then reinstall them...for now.
*Pull the EGI fuse. With a new battery and full charge make sure the engine cranks/turns freely. If so, reinstall the EGI.
*Attempt to start the car. If it starts keep it running at as close to idle as you can until it reaches something approaching operating temp. This should be about when the stock gauge just begins to move.
*NOW change all fluids...oil, coolant, brake, transmission and differential gear oil.
* Replace fuel filter...see the service manual.
* New OEM thermostat with the coolant change.
* Replace spark plugs (stock NGK, in stock heat ranges recommended)
* Replace tires
Consult the owners manual for proper oil viscosity for your current ambient temperatures. I might do a second oil/filter change after a thousand miles or so.
A copy of the Factory Service Manual is available via download in the FAQ sticky at the top of this section or in the 3rd Gen. tech FAQ. Learning the search function on the forum will be gold. A lot of info here.
*Roll the car outside and drain the gas. The tank should have a drain.
*Make sure the oil level and coolant level is full.
*Replace with 3 or 4 gallons of fresh and some good fuel system cleaner. I like BG44k or the Chevron Techron stuff. 93 is great but if it’s stock 91 is fine.
*Pull the leading plugs (lower plugs) on each housing. Squirt a little 2-cycle oil (maybe a tablespoon) into each housing. If the plugs don’t look fouled then reinstall them...for now.
*Pull the EGI fuse. With a new battery and full charge make sure the engine cranks/turns freely. If so, reinstall the EGI.
*Attempt to start the car. If it starts keep it running at as close to idle as you can until it reaches something approaching operating temp. This should be about when the stock gauge just begins to move.
*Change all fluids...oil, coolant, brake, transmission and differential gear oil.
* Replace fuel filter
* Replace spark plugs (stock NGK, in stock heat ranges recommended)
* Replace tires
Consult the owners manual for proper oil viscosity for your current ambient temperatures. I might do a second oil/filter change after a thousand miles or so.
A copy of the Factory Service Manual is available via download in the FAQ sticky at the top of this section or in the 3rd Gen. tech FAQ. Learning the search function on the forum will be gold. A lot of info here.
*Roll the car outside and drain the gas. The tank should have a drain.
*Make sure the oil level and coolant level is full.
*Replace with 3 or 4 gallons of fresh and some good fuel system cleaner. I like BG44k or the Chevron Techron stuff. 93 is great but if it’s stock 91 is fine.
*Pull the leading plugs (lower plugs) on each housing. Squirt a little 2-cycle oil (maybe a tablespoon) into each housing. If the plugs don’t look fouled then reinstall them...for now.
*Pull the EGI fuse. With a new battery and full charge make sure the engine cranks/turns freely. If so, reinstall the EGI.
*Attempt to start the car. If it starts keep it running at as close to idle as you can until it reaches something approaching operating temp. This should be about when the stock gauge just begins to move.
*NOW change all fluids...oil, coolant, brake, transmission and differential gear oil.
* Replace fuel filter...see the service manual.
* New OEM thermostat with the coolant change.
* Replace spark plugs (stock NGK, in stock heat ranges recommended)
* Replace tires
Consult the owners manual for proper oil viscosity for your current ambient temperatures. I might do a second oil/filter change after a thousand miles or so.
A copy of the Factory Service Manual is available via download in the FAQ sticky at the top of this section or in the 3rd Gen. tech FAQ. Learning the search function on the forum will be gold. A lot of info here.
Got it fired up, runs like a champ, no codes at this point! I appreciate the help.
Awesome!
I think I’d get it up to operating temp a couple of times and then get those fluids changed. Coolant goes acidic with time and it’s hard on the soft (coolant) seals. Those are the rough equivalent to head-gaskets. A search using terms like “burping” should get you some pointers on how to purge air from the cooling system.
A couple more things come to mind now that you’re up and running....
*If you don’t already have one, install an aftermarket temperature gauge. The stock gauge isn’t linear and tells you nothing until you’ve probably already overheated.
* If your car is truly stock, the radiator end tanks and AST (Air Separation Tank) are made of plastic and are known to fail with age and heat cycles...sometimes catastrophically. I strongly recommend all aluminum replacements or at least new OEM.
Awesome!
I think I’d get it up to operating temp a couple of times and then get those fluids changed. Coolant goes acidic with time and it’s hard on the soft (coolant) seals. Those are the rough equivalent to head-gaskets. A search using terms like “burping” should get you some pointers on how to purge air from the cooling system.
A couple more things come to mind now that you’re up and running....
*If you don’t already have one, install an aftermarket temperature gauge. The stock gauge isn’t linear and tells you nothing until you’ve probably already overheated.
* If your car is truly stock, the radiator end tanks and AST (Air Separation Tank) are made of plastic and are known to fail with age and heat cycles...sometimes catastrophically. I strongly recommend all aluminum replacements or at least new OEM.
I will keep that in mind. Oil changed, fuel filter changed, drove it around the block. Now to check tranny and diff fluid. I checked the antifreeze in the system, it checked out good. I will look into an aluminum radiator replacement and change fluid at that time.
Is there a recommended place to mount sensor for aftermarket thermostat?
....Is there a recommended place to mount sensor for aftermarket thermostat?
For the aftermarket temperature gauge sensor I recommend the throttle body coolant line. Easy to access, accurate temp readings in real time and easily reversible.
More info here, and a list of needed hardware on post #36——> https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-392910/page2/
For the aftermarket temperature gauge sensor I recommend the throttle body coolant line. Easy to access, accurate temp readings in real time and easily reversible.
More info here, and a list of needed hardware on post #36——> https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-392910/page2/
Awesome! Thank you. I am learning stuff as I am reading through tech posts. I appreciate all your help.
I've brought a number cars back to life after sitting both inside and outside.
My observation is the fuel system always suffers from sitting. Especially since the addition of ethanol to fuel. Sometimes injectors get stuck. Sometimes fuel pumps and contacts get flaky.
In addition to what has been mentioned I would get a new fuel hanger (built in contacts corrode and make poor connection) and a new fuel pump. These engines are so sensitive to fuel starvation that a weak fuel system can = blown motor before you realize something is wrong.
Fuel pump refresh is an easy job in these cars. You can also use the opportunity to check the tank for rust.
And replace the fuel pulsation damper and hoses under hood. They are prone to fail/leak after decades of use and can cause engine fires.
Awesome car and good luck getting it back on the road.
I've brought a number cars back to life after sitting both inside and outside.
My observation is the fuel system always suffers from sitting. Especially since the addition of ethanol to fuel. Sometimes injectors get stuck. Sometimes fuel pumps and contacts get flaky.
In addition to what has been mentioned I would get a new fuel hanger (built in contacts corrode and make poor connection) and a new fuel pump. These engines are so sensitive to fuel starvation that a weak fuel system can = blown motor before you realize something is wrong.
Fuel pump refresh is an easy job in these cars. You can also use the opportunity to check the tank for rust.
And replace the fuel pulsation damper and hoses under hood. They are prone to fail/leak after decades of use and can cause engine fires.
Awesome car and good luck getting it back on the road.
Thank you for the help and feedback. I am still working on the items listed above to check, flush and replace.
I ran into a problem today. I took the car to the gas station to fill up, and car would not start. I bump started it and got it home. I did a little research to understand and seems like it could potentially be the neutral safety switch. I bypassed it, but no luck. Any ideas?
Nice !!! I have been there myself. My car sat for 12years. It now runs well and my build is documented on this great forum. A lot of good rotards here.
I've brought a number cars back to life after sitting both inside and outside.
My observation is the fuel system always suffers from sitting. Especially since the addition of ethanol to fuel. Sometimes injectors get stuck. Sometimes fuel pumps and contacts get flaky.
In addition to what has been mentioned I would get a new fuel hanger (built in contacts corrode and make poor connection) and a new fuel pump. These engines are so sensitive to fuel starvation that a weak fuel system can = blown motor before you realize something is wrong.
Fuel pump refresh is an easy job in these cars. You can also use the opportunity to check the tank for rust.
And replace the fuel pulsation damper and hoses under hood. They are prone to fail/leak after decades of use and can cause engine fires.
Awesome car and good luck getting it back on the road.
Good advice. One area always overlooked are the rubber fuel lines at the rear of the car.
Any car that has been sitting for a long period of time should really be gone through, everywhere. There are serious safety concerns when it comes to the fuel system on a 25+ year old car.
Quick list to keep you busy
-Drain the tank
-New fuel pump and filter
-Rear fuel lines
-Fuel filter lines
-Engine bay fuel lines
-Injectors (need to be cleaned if sitting for years)
-Injector o-rings
-Injector diffusers & o-rings
-FPR o-ring
-FPD o-ring
Now run the fuel pump for awhile before re-assembling the upper intake manifold making sure no fuel is leaking.
-Coolant lines & thermostat. Not only the radiator hoses but also the turbo coolant hoses, the ones that feed the throttle body, and heater hoses while your at it. You don't want coolant leaking near the hot exhaust system. Take extra caution not to make an oval out of the heater core pipes if using pliers to get the old stuck hoses off.
-Brake lines! These get mushy and constrict overtime if brake fluid is not flushed regularly. Can cause calipers to stick by not allowing brake fluid to move freely.
-Brake calipers! Verify all pistons are free and move before driving the car
-Rubber clutch line (good time to do it if flushing the brake system)
And then there are the vacuum lines...
Then it might be safe to start it and perfect time to see if it's leaking any oil from the turbos. Oil leaking from the engine pan is basically normal on FD's.
After taking your time and doing all the right preventative maintenance you can appreciate the FD without having to constantly worry about it down the road.
If his boost pattern is good and there are no issues, I say leave the vacuum lines alone. That's a can of worms that just doesn't need opening right now. Likewise injectors. Keep some fuel system cleaner going for a while after the new filter and enjoy the car.
RE: no start... Your clutch safety switch or stopper may have broken. It's on the clutch pedal under the dash. The switch presses against a little rubber bumper that breaks and falls out sometimes.
No clicking... accessories all work, no power to starter. Batter is new as if yesterday. and fully charged prior to hooking it up...
Should be pretty easy to figure out. Make sure you looked at the correct switch on the clutch pedal, US cars have 2 different switches. One is for the ECU's use while driving, the other is for the starter interlock. As above, there's a plastic/rubbery bumper that is in place to push in the plunger and with these cars age a lot of them are brittle and falling apart, you would have seen pieces in your floorboard if that was the case.
RE: no start... Your clutch safety switch or stopper may have broken. It's on the clutch pedal under the dash. The switch presses against a little rubber bumper that breaks and falls out sometimes.
I bypassed it last night with no luck. I will be checking solenoid wiring today. Any other ideas?
Should be pretty easy to figure out. Make sure you looked at the correct switch on the clutch pedal, US cars have 2 different switches. One is for the ECU's use while driving, the other is for the starter interlock. As above, there's a plastic/rubbery bumper that is in place to push in the plunger and with these cars age a lot of them are brittle and falling apart, you would have seen pieces in your floorboard if that was the case.
I do not see anything wrong. I did continuity check and also bypassed the switch with plunger... everything checked out good.
