At start up i have to press down the gas and once it starts jumps up to 3k and after about 30 second goes down to 2k and stays there even after warm. Doesn't go under 2k. Any ideas i appreciate it thanks!!
sacramento ca.

 

I would definitely look for vacuum leaks first. Some people spray carb cleaner but I use an unlit propane torch with the tip cut off and a length of hose on the end to route the propane to different points around the intake and other parts where leaks are suspected. Do this at idle and see if the carb cleaner or whatever you use changes the idle. If so it will be being pulled into the engine at the leak point which changes the idle speed.

 

Maybe TPS. I have the same car and just had to replace mine.

 

Has the car ever run properly before and this problem just arose or what? W/the engine idling, press upwards on the throttle linkage at the front of the throttle body. If this lowers the idle to an appropriate amount then make sure the throttle cable is not binding as there should be a lot of slack in the cable.

 

The cable has allot of slack first thing i've checked. I'm also getting a code. For the accelerated warm up system solenoid. I have no idea where it is. But that should be my next fix.

It started happening after i replaced the engine from a carbed S5 with blown rear rotor. To pretty much stock efi. Great compression. Motor is not the cause.

 

So, you're getting a code. Well it's good that you decided to eventually share that info w/us. The wiring diagram/fsm will show the location of the solenoids involved ( they would be the air supply solenoid and the AWS solenoid), its wire colors (both have a Black/White wire which supplies voltage of 12 volts w/key to on. They each have a Brown/Yellow wire which has 12 volts w/key to on but then the voltage drops to less than 2 volts for the first 17 seconds after a cold start then followed by 12 volts on this wire after 17 seconds has passed on a cold start. You could also disconnect the plugs and see if there is any change.

 

This works well but I have never scrutinized it from a safety standpoint if something was to ignite the gas. Also, I have heard that propane is heavy and can settle in areas.

I know the use of propane for vac leak checking is talked about in other car forums but not necessarily via hacking off the end of a torch. It could be advisable to use a different setup. I don't have much experience with this kind of stuff so I just don't know.

Something made me think again of this recently and I realized I had posted about it several times.

 

Check for vacuum leaks first. I've actually fixed a couple of these problems on my friends' RX7s. It's either the TPS needs to be adjusted/replaced or it has a bad air flow meter