Hey everyone, I used to be little88thatcould, but the '88 was sold as it needed an engine replacement [at the time I didn't have the money], and I ended up buying an 85 about a month and a half ago.

At any rate, my car's been having some... funny... issues. When I first got the car, it idled a little weird, had to feather the throttle at idle to keep the car from dying. Eventually, it calmed down, but idled high [around 1400]. The car drove relatively trouble free for about two weeks, but it would randomly die, and by die, I mean begin to lose power, the engine would pitch down about an octave, and then steadily lose power until it would completely cut out. Would lose steering / breaks, everything except electrical.

The more I drove the car, the more frequently this would happen. The car does start up again after it sits for a little while, and will idle fine, but driving it anywhere is out of the question.

Friend I have says it might be a PCV valve or a vacuum leak of some kind...? I'm pretty stumped here.

A link to the FSM would be really helpful, too. I know where the ones for the 300zx are, but not my own car!

Thanks for your help!

-Jia.

 

Have at it rotary guru's! I'll add my own tidbit...start with the fuel filter in the back. Just replace it. Also, do not dismiss out-of-hand anyone suggesting an exhaust restriction problem in the cats unless, of course, they already have been removed...

Mario III

 

The FSM: http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual

 

Hey guys. I have replaced spark plugs [they were very, very badly fouled] and the air filter [which was also terrifyingly ugly.]

The car starts now [hooray]. However, it will not idle whatsoever. The car will start, and then the engine will pitch down about an octave and lose power, even with the accelerator pedal to the floor. Confirmed spark, not sure about fuel.

After about 30 seconds, it'll die.

What next?

 

Do some reading over at www.sterlingmetalworks.com

There are writeups on how to tune the idle, troubleshooting, and even a forum where you can ask our Nikki carb expert questions.



.

 

well, you're on your way. you mentioned plugs and air filter, but you didn't mention anything about the fuel filter mar3 suggested. that's the first thing that came to my mind. don't go messing with the carbie until you confirm adequate fuel flow.

 

I do have a replacement fuel filter and I intend on doing that + compression test tomorrow. Finding the thing [fuel filter] has really been a trip, though.

In other news, how do you do a compression test on a rotary with a regular compression tester? I know it's different, I'm just not sure how.

 

Rotary Ressurection's guide to compression testing.

i'm not sure if you mean you've finally found it or not, but the fuel filter is located under the car, just about where the left rear wheel is.

 

Fuel filter was *nasty*. Had something thunking around in the bottom of it... I don't want to know. That's replaced.

Going and getting a compression tester today, will post results. Thanks for your help so far, guys.

 

... Guys, where's the main fuse box in my car? :| Not the interior one, but the main fuses.

 

main fuses? if you've located the box in the driver's side kick panel, then you've found it. aside from a few fusible links on the left strut tower, that's it.

what are you looking for?

 

Trying to do a compression test. Instructions say to pull the EGI fuse. I imagine that's for the 2nd gens.

 

Okay, on the right leading plug it's 35 psi for each pop with the valve on the compression tester held down.

Not sure how we're supposed to test overall compression, but that number seems okay.

 

Left leading plug is 35 psi for each pop with the valve compression tester valve held down, however, total compression will not reach higher than 100 which is the bottom end of acceptable as far as I know.

We had to hand-tighten the plug to the compressor however, chance it might be loose...

 

No skips in the air pops, btw, all sound even and extremely strong.