13bt rebuild help!! experience needed!!
#1
GroceryGetterPistonSh1tR
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13bt rebuild help!! experience needed!!
Ok im wanting to rebuild my 13bt and shoot for around 300-350hp... wat i have now is walbro fuel pump 720's all around gettin rtek 1.8 or maybe 2.1 depends on my funds..Ive heard of different internals and all tht but idk wat to use,dont want 3mm seal or any of tht.. so if I was to buy everything for this build what would I need?? oh yeah and its gonna be my street car! its an 88 13BT with about 35k on rebuild so the guy i bought it from said long story but it sat for about 8 years untill i got it running!.. but it runs pretty good but i wanna up the boot and hp. so I need to know everythings good and it dont boom! so could you help me make a list of what I need??.. I live in muford TN close to memphis and their are no 7's around here but my 7! so yall r all I got!!
#2
Engine, Not Motor
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Get the 2.1.
Sounds like you are in BNR Stage 2 territory. A good hybrid turbo upgrade that will easily do the low side of 300HP with an RTek and simple fuel upgrades.
Don't bother with 3MM apex seals.
At the very minimum to rebuild the engine you need an engine gasket set, and a set of apex seals. Such as the Atkins kit "B".
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/index.php?pag=5
Sounds like you are in BNR Stage 2 territory. A good hybrid turbo upgrade that will easily do the low side of 300HP with an RTek and simple fuel upgrades.
Don't bother with 3MM apex seals.
At the very minimum to rebuild the engine you need an engine gasket set, and a set of apex seals. Such as the Atkins kit "B".
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/index.php?pag=5
#3
GroceryGetterPistonSh1tR
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Get the 2.1.
Sounds like you are in BNR Stage 2 territory. A good hybrid turbo upgrade that will easily do the low side of 300HP with an RTek and simple fuel upgrades.
Don't bother with 3MM apex seals.
At the very minimum to rebuild the engine you need an engine gasket set, and a set of apex seals. Such as the Atkins kit "B".
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/index.php?pag=5
Sounds like you are in BNR Stage 2 territory. A good hybrid turbo upgrade that will easily do the low side of 300HP with an RTek and simple fuel upgrades.
Don't bother with 3MM apex seals.
At the very minimum to rebuild the engine you need an engine gasket set, and a set of apex seals. Such as the Atkins kit "B".
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/index.php?pag=5
#5
Burps and Braps
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You would need a inter cooler upgrade for safety precautions. I suggest getting a cheap god speed fmic but if you have the money then go v-mount. The stock t2 inter coolers are only rated up to 10 psi until the engine starts soaking in massive amounts of heat.
I agree with funkjaw check the compression first before rebuilding it. Using stronger engine studs dont hurt either =]
I agree with funkjaw check the compression first before rebuilding it. Using stronger engine studs dont hurt either =]
#6
GroceryGetterPistonSh1tR
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You would need a inter cooler upgrade for safety precautions. I suggest getting a cheap god speed fmic but if you have the money then go v-mount. The stock t2 inter coolers are only rated up to 10 psi until the engine starts soaking in massive amounts of heat.
I agree with funkjaw check the compression first before rebuilding it. Using stronger engine studs dont hurt either =]
I agree with funkjaw check the compression first before rebuilding it. Using stronger engine studs dont hurt either =]
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#8
GroceryGetterPistonSh1tR
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thts wat i mean if u were sitting still like a traffic jam wad keep u cool? or is vmont mostly a track thing?
#9
Burps and Braps
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as far as throttle response go its the opposite since the air pipes are shorter but it also means more heat.
Last edited by LoLsmileyFC; 11-21-11 at 12:03 PM.
#10
GroceryGetterPistonSh1tR
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your not running enough boost to heat up the vmount so it wouldnt be an issue. i would wire a small fan to it tho lol. i personally think vmounts are mostly for looks. its too much work to move the radiator, build a duct, and buy a vented hood but if one has the time and money then why not? fmic>vmount>tmic imo
#11
Sharp Claws
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v-mounts aren't mainly for looks...
jesus, i don't want to explain the priority order of cooling systems again. take a look at the car in stock form and how things were prioritized and that is very close to how it should be:
1) oil cooler taking up about 1/4 of the fresh air
2) radiator taking up about 3/4 of the fresh air
3) intercooler getting the stagnant leftovers, or fresh air when rolling and it needs it
the a/c condenser needs the coolest air to actually function though which is why it has to be stuffed in front and also why they get junked first when building higher performance cars.
in an ideal world each of those 3 would get fresh air to each, for example the FD3S moved the oil coolers to the side of the radiator so the radiator gets cool fresh air as well as the oil coolers, the intercooler got a small chunk of fresh air.
with a v-mount you split the air between the radiator and the intercooler which is ideal. second, ideally you would move the oil coolers to the sides like the FD has and then you have fresh air to each! the end.
keeping the intercooler cool = more power and faster turbo response, but if the engine is cooking it will negate that.
just about any real well built rotary track car uses a v-mount style setup with oil coolers on the sides. this is the best setup but it is also the most time consuming and costly to put together. front mounts are cheap and easy and anyone can install one but do not underplay that it is inferior. if it's a strictly drag car then you can get by with a front mount, for the best well rounded setup it doesn't meet the criteria.
jesus, i don't want to explain the priority order of cooling systems again. take a look at the car in stock form and how things were prioritized and that is very close to how it should be:
1) oil cooler taking up about 1/4 of the fresh air
2) radiator taking up about 3/4 of the fresh air
3) intercooler getting the stagnant leftovers, or fresh air when rolling and it needs it
the a/c condenser needs the coolest air to actually function though which is why it has to be stuffed in front and also why they get junked first when building higher performance cars.
in an ideal world each of those 3 would get fresh air to each, for example the FD3S moved the oil coolers to the side of the radiator so the radiator gets cool fresh air as well as the oil coolers, the intercooler got a small chunk of fresh air.
with a v-mount you split the air between the radiator and the intercooler which is ideal. second, ideally you would move the oil coolers to the sides like the FD has and then you have fresh air to each! the end.
keeping the intercooler cool = more power and faster turbo response, but if the engine is cooking it will negate that.
just about any real well built rotary track car uses a v-mount style setup with oil coolers on the sides. this is the best setup but it is also the most time consuming and costly to put together. front mounts are cheap and easy and anyone can install one but do not underplay that it is inferior. if it's a strictly drag car then you can get by with a front mount, for the best well rounded setup it doesn't meet the criteria.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-21-11 at 12:32 PM.
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