well i cant seem to find enough info to answer my questions.

is there a list of parts one would need if i were to buy used engine parts here and there, and machince them and build up the motor. like a direct list..... rotor, rotor housing etc.

is almost any part interchangeable. i forget which but one set of rotors had an 8.0:1 compression and others had 9.0:1. from what i know the 8.0:1 rotors would be better for boosting?

i read some engine housings are stronger then others.

it may be more money in the long run to buyy part by part but that way i can take my time. learn these inside and out and i would feel more comforable to see the inside of the motor before i buy a whole one. say if i were to buy an egay one and the engine is junk or barely passable. that would suck

i want a single turbo twin rotor engine. with 300 plus hp.

basically i want the strongest, most reliable 13b i can get.

 

Start from the beginning. Head to your local book store and buy the book "Street Rotary" by Mark Warner. It is a good description of basic rotary stuff:
http://www.amazon.com/Street-Rotary-.../dp/1557885494

There is generally little machining necessary when building a rotary. Compared to piston engines, the wear surfaces on the rotary are generally flat. Also things like aligning bearings is unnecessary due to how the engine goes together and frankly, better manufacturing tolerance. I am continually amazed at what is considered a "normal" part of a piston engine build...

As for rotors, here is a chart of compression values and weights:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/rotorwgt.htm

As you can see, NA engines generally run compression in the 9.4-9.7 area and turbo rotors are in the 8.5 to 9.0 area. You can run boost on the higher compression NA rotors (my advice is to stay away from the 9.7 rotors and stick with 9.4) with basically the same advantages of a higher compression piston engine. But tuning becomes more critical so generally if this is your first rotary project, you should stick with low compression turbo rotors.

If all you want is 300HP, then don't even waste time thinking about twin turbos. Just build a street ported 13B of whatever year matches your car and bolt on an appropriate turbo such as a GT30R. Of course it's not quite that easy because you need an appropriate fuel system, but the point is that 300HP is not hard.

 

you should get on google and look up on rotaries. Read this here are alot of questions to find out some things.
(Copy and paste)
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/

 

watched that vid on the clutch. can't believe mazda changed it that way. pushing those fingers in on the pressure plate is the best was to disengage the clutch. but great info on that page.

 

thats all i was looking for is just one turbo. say if i got the 2nd gen turbo motor can that handle a gt30 and that amount of power or would it be smarter to get a 3rd gen tt and make it a single

 

Use the engine that matches your car. Since you have not mentioned what RX-7 you actually have, then I can't be much more help then that.

 

I'm sorry lol. Well I don't have an rx7. I am doing a swap into another car so I have many options as far as engines. I forgot to mention that. A beautiful 13 b will be going into a 240sx. Sorry to the purist

 

In that case, the 13BREW from the FD converted to single turbo is the most evolved engine. It has the best castings for irons, best chrome surface on the rotor housing and all of the improvements Mazda made up to that point.

Then for your 300HP, use a GT3076 1.06 T3 as a single turbo.

 

ok sweet. i kinda figured that woukd be the best option as far as perfecting the rotory as far as they could