Currently dealing with trying to figure out which codes are popping up. My wife and I have tried to figure it out but we’re stuck. Already searched through the forums but still having issues. Below is the video for all the codes I have popping up. Any help would be appreciated!

https://youtube.com/shorts/ec7xFZokqrQ?si=321r0-6akxMztnyn

 

Long flash is a tens place and short flash is ones place. Example: 3 long flashes and 5 short flashes. 30+5=35

the pause inbetween is it going to the next code. Post the codes you have an we can help from there.

 

Thank you! We are basically trying to decipher between different codes cause it’ll have the short flashes and then a long flash, but slow down a bit if that makes any sense? We think there’s 3-4 different codes popping up but need help knowing when said codes end and when the new ones begin

 

Watch your video... write down the pattern until it repeats.... decipher

 

They cycle and repeat. It is tricky to track.

BTW: are coils hooked up correctly? Just askin'.



What are your runability symptoms?

 

Your tube link is not active. Perhaps because you are too new to the forum.

 

yes coils are connected properly. From what I’m seeing it looks like codes 05, 34, and 40.
The reason I have been trying to go through all of this is I have had multiple instances where my car wouldn’t start after turning it off to get gas or at meets. And I also have issues where the car will kill fuel and start jerking itself back and forth with backfiring if I attempt to go more than 30% throttle regardless of gear, rpms, or even if I’m in neutral just sitting still

 

5, 34 and 40 aren't related to what you've described. Seems like you have fuel pressure problem. The easiest way to test is to pull your pump and replace the pump to to hanger o ring into a hose instead. You need submersible hose to do it, not regular fuel line. You could also install an inline fuel pressure tester but it's really annoying on a stock or near stock set up. Pulling the pump is much easier.

We have a video on our YouTube with how to do this. You only need the one part that talks about how to adapt the hose. Whether it's actually your problem or not, it will be one day so you can get ahead of it

 

I should have said this in the last reply I apologize, if I turn it to accessories and then start it I have the fuel cut issue, if I just turn it from off straight to starting I don’t have any issues. I wasn’t sure if maybe the knock sensor could be causing my fuel cut issue, possibly causing limp mode and maybe the solenoid code might be related to my problem with starting the engine after having shut it off after driving it. Either way I’ll probably still go ahead and follow through with your suggestion even if it stands as preventative maintenance
Thank you

 

In theory that would fall in line with low fuel pressure as the pump prime is essentially skipped by doing that. The prime becomes the starting action essentially..... on the flip side, the pump is running while cranking so idk lol probably way off base with that. I feel like it's a clue though

One thing at a time i guess. Install that hose and let's see what happens. I'm not 100% with a stock ecu but as far as I'm aware there isn't a knock safety feature so it shouldn't matter if the sensor is actually working or not.

It's VERY common for the stock knock sensors to be dead. It's rare I even see a working one. 100% of the time I discover this when installing a power fc. It means it wasn't working on the stock ecu and the cars ran fine so this is why I make that assumption. It's probably mentioned in the fsm.

 

Sounds very much like limp mode.

On what basis do you think your coils are hooked up correctly?

Also FD like to flood easily. Don't even breathe on the throttle when you start up.

("And I also have issues where the car will kill fuel and start jerking itself back and forth with backfiring if I attempt to go more than 30% throttle regardless of gear, rpms, or even if I’m in neutral just sitting still" - This sounds very much like my car the many times it went into limp mode. It also sounds like my car when the coil harness was hooked up in reverse order.)

 

Here is how the coil harness should be hooked up on a Version 4 car. Also make sure the plug lead are running to the correct plugs from the correct posts on the coils.

 

Note that the ECU will re-set itself. So it will let you run for a little while, before it throws you back into limp mode. I don't know which of the maybe 50 codes will trigger limp mode. But the ecu hates a bad signal from the OMP.

 

Code 34 is the idle speed/air control valve which the ecu will use to feed air into the engine when you are not activating the throttle (and otherwise). So if that is not functioning it will certainly affect your runability.

 

 

New ISC run about $450, but used ones show up for about $100. @tomsn16

The FSM will tell you how to check the ISC. It easy to remove for inspection (don't drop the little screws into your engine bay).

 

Code "40" is the purge control valve. I believe this is a valve that opens to let fumes from your gas tank get sucked into your UIM from time to time. I don't think that item would be a limp mode item, but who knows? (*)

5 is the knock sensor. I don't know if that is a limp mode item or not. It could be that if the signal is failing the ecu makes a default assumption.

(* if the PCV solenoid valve is faulting there may be a way to fool the ECU by putting some sort of a resistor in its place. Look it up.)

 

BTW: Be certain about the coil thing before you run your motor.

 

$85 each shipped to lower 48

 

Good to have a spare ISC, or too.