Maryland guys!
Jesus is the Messiah
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,848
Likes: 0
From: Silver Spring, MD
Jason Viw: YATTA YATTA YATTA
hachi AE86 roku: then gotta go back out at some point
hachi AE86 roku: for the performance
Jason Viw: IS SO EASY!!!!
hachi AE86 roku: ??
Jason Viw: HAPPY GO OH LUCKY!!!!
hachi AE86 roku: oh yeah, dude, check this:
Jason Viw: WE ARE THE WAD OF DOUGH!
Jason Viw: WE DIDNT EAT Q Q Q Q S S S S AYE!!!!
hachi AE86 roku: then gotta go back out at some point
hachi AE86 roku: for the performance
Jason Viw: IS SO EASY!!!!
hachi AE86 roku: ??
Jason Viw: HAPPY GO OH LUCKY!!!!
hachi AE86 roku: oh yeah, dude, check this:
Jason Viw: WE ARE THE WAD OF DOUGH!
Jason Viw: WE DIDNT EAT Q Q Q Q S S S S AYE!!!!
glass half empty, chug!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
Wow, ok, I"m confused... In all my years involved with cars I've never experieced this. I get in my 7 turn it on, let it warm up and all that good stuff. I put it in first, start driving shift at like 5k and POP, something odd happened. Engine is fine, but the tranny wont let me put it in gear. and the pedal stayed at the ground...
now:
-when pedal pushed in, it dosn't make a difference. Its like the clutch is always engaged.
-I cant put it into a gear unless the car is off.
-I'm getting grey hairs.
I have never really werked with trannys and more over never even heard of this happening. I missed a date with a REALLY good looking girl who made me laugh (something that hasn't happened in awhile), so this car is GOING to be fixed whether it likes it or not.
now:
-when pedal pushed in, it dosn't make a difference. Its like the clutch is always engaged.
-I cant put it into a gear unless the car is off.
-I'm getting grey hairs.
I have never really werked with trannys and more over never even heard of this happening. I missed a date with a REALLY good looking girl who made me laugh (something that hasn't happened in awhile), so this car is GOING to be fixed whether it likes it or not.
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,855
Likes: 517
From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Originally Posted by Icesickkle
Wow, ok, I"m confused... In all my years involved with cars I've never experieced this. I get in my 7 turn it on, let it warm up and all that good stuff. I put it in first, start driving shift at like 5k and POP, something odd happened. Engine is fine, but the tranny wont let me put it in gear. and the pedal stayed at the ground...
now:
-when pedal pushed in, it dosn't make a difference. Its like the clutch is always engaged.
-I cant put it into a gear unless the car is off.
-I'm getting grey hairs.
I have never really werked with trannys and more over never even heard of this happening. I missed a date with a REALLY good looking girl who made me laugh (something that hasn't happened in awhile), so this car is GOING to be fixed whether it likes it or not.
now:
-when pedal pushed in, it dosn't make a difference. Its like the clutch is always engaged.
-I cant put it into a gear unless the car is off.
-I'm getting grey hairs.
I have never really werked with trannys and more over never even heard of this happening. I missed a date with a REALLY good looking girl who made me laugh (something that hasn't happened in awhile), so this car is GOING to be fixed whether it likes it or not.
Replace the hose too if you wanna... It's about $100 for all the parts together (At least for the 1st gen. 2nd gen shouldn't be too much different.) Takes about an hour or two.
Originally Posted by Pele
Bad clutch hydrualics. Replace the master cylinder and slave together, because when one goes, the other is not long to follow.
Replace the hose too if you wanna... It's about $100 for all the parts together (At least for the 1st gen. 2nd gen shouldn't be too much different.) Takes about an hour or two.
Replace the hose too if you wanna... It's about $100 for all the parts together (At least for the 1st gen. 2nd gen shouldn't be too much different.) Takes about an hour or two.
That one is also sexual
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,671
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, MD
Originally Posted by Icesickkle
Wow, ok, I"m confused... In all my years involved with cars I've never experieced this. I get in my 7 turn it on, let it warm up and all that good stuff. I put it in first, start driving shift at like 5k and POP, something odd happened. Engine is fine, but the tranny wont let me put it in gear. and the pedal stayed at the ground...
now:
-when pedal pushed in, it dosn't make a difference. Its like the clutch is always engaged.
-I cant put it into a gear unless the car is off.
-I'm getting grey hairs.
I have never really werked with trannys and more over never even heard of this happening. I missed a date with a REALLY good looking girl who made me laugh (something that hasn't happened in awhile), so this car is GOING to be fixed whether it likes it or not.
now:
-when pedal pushed in, it dosn't make a difference. Its like the clutch is always engaged.
-I cant put it into a gear unless the car is off.
-I'm getting grey hairs.
I have never really werked with trannys and more over never even heard of this happening. I missed a date with a REALLY good looking girl who made me laugh (something that hasn't happened in awhile), so this car is GOING to be fixed whether it likes it or not.
sounds like the slave cylinder popped. happened to my car the day before i was gonna pick it up from the shop. but like pele said....might wanna replace both master and slavee just to be sure. replace hose too (can be ricerish and get a stainless braided hose if you want
)
MegaSquirt Mod
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,721
Likes: 1
From: Maryland
Originally Posted by AkumaKuruma
yeah
sounds like the slave cylinder popped. happened to my car the day before i was gonna pick it up from the shop. but like pele said....might wanna replace both master and slavee just to be sure. replace hose too (can be ricerish and get a stainless braided hose if you want )
sounds like the slave cylinder popped. happened to my car the day before i was gonna pick it up from the shop. but like pele said....might wanna replace both master and slavee just to be sure. replace hose too (can be ricerish and get a stainless braided hose if you want
)Ken
I also have one it's blue 
it didn't make much of a difference. but it's not ricer. It won't wear out like a regular rubber hose, and it cost about the same to replace.
-Mike
it didn't make much of a difference. but it's not ricer. It won't wear out like a regular rubber hose, and it cost about the same to replace.-Mike
Originally Posted by muythaibxr
stainless braided isn't ricer dude, haha, it makes a HUGE difference on the feel of the clutch. I put one in the hachi, and the difference after putting it in was VERY noticable. (same with steel braided brake lines).
Ken
Ken
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,855
Likes: 517
From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Originally Posted by eage8
That's what I would have guessed... sounds like the same thing that happened to suds' car. except the retarded transmission shop said he needed a new transmission, but then he found out later (when it broke again) that it was the hydrolics.
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,855
Likes: 517
From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Originally Posted by Pele
I'm daily beating a 1985 Camry... (Truck gets crappy mileage, and the friend who I was selling this Camry to for $400 has lost his license.) Odometer broke at 190K miles...And I'm doing something I NEVER do... I'm driving it without basic tools.
Every car I've ever driven has had a set of Metric Sockets and combonation wrenches in the back, along with assorted hoses, belts, wiring, and Duct Tape.It feels kinda weird knowing that if it breaks on me, I have NOTHING in the car with which to make ANY type of repairs... Yet somehow, I'm comforted by the logo on the Dash.
Originally Posted by Me
Actually I found one serious problem with the Camry... It's something to do with the kickdown cable and the torque converter.
These devices work fine, but there is a major problem with them. Perhaps someone can guess what that is.
These devices work fine, but there is a major problem with them. Perhaps someone can guess what that is.
The Auto tranny popped yesterday on my way to work. All gears = Neutral.
My buddy has already paid me for $200 or so in parts that have gone on the car. (Full tune-up, rear brake hardware, shoes, and hydraulics...)
And the guy just got his license back today too.
Anyone think it wouldn't have broken if I hadn't said something like that?
Man, I hate automatic transmissions. So complex... One failure = immobility. Strip a gear in a manual, just skip it. Eh Jason?
Ugh. At least it's safe in the work parking lot, so nobody'll hit it and leave a note with their insurance information.
That one is also sexual
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,671
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, MD
Originally Posted by Pele
Anyone think it wouldn't have broken if I hadn't said something like that?
Man, I hate automatic transmissions. So complex... One failure = immobility. Strip a gear in a manual, just skip it. Eh Jason?
Man, I hate automatic transmissions. So complex... One failure = immobility. Strip a gear in a manual, just skip it. Eh Jason?
MegaSquirt Mod
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,721
Likes: 1
From: Maryland
Originally Posted by f1blueRx7
I also have one it's blue it didn't make much of a difference. but it's not ricer. It won't wear out like a regular rubber hose, and it cost about the same to replace.
-Mike
it didn't make much of a difference. but it's not ricer. It won't wear out like a regular rubber hose, and it cost about the same to replace.-Mike
MegaSquirt Mod
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,721
Likes: 1
From: Maryland
wee! I'm changing the subject!
Yesterday Jason and I took his 7 to 8800 rpms... (and it was still producing power), but in the process fried his ignition module (it's some POS GM rigged up stuff that I set up till I can get the stock leading working this week with the stock CAS). It kinda sucked; he took it to 8800, then we drove it like 30 or 40 miles, then suddnly the tach signal from the module goes frickin haywire. I get out of the car, and go futz with the wiring and stuff, start the car back up, and it seems fine. Start driving it again, tach signal goes haywire and takes the TPS signal with it (musta been some interesting electrical interferance in the engine bay at that point). So we called brandon, who rushed from home with the cheaper but better replacement module, I do a quick replacement of it, and bam! it works fine... and actually runs smoother than before.
I think the fact that we had dwell at 3.3 ms, and discharge time at .5 ms (total 3.8 ms) is part of what killed it.... we ran the poor module at 114% duty cycle at 8800 rpms. So I dropped the dwell to 3.2 ms with the new module, but I think the new module was made to handle more dwell than the other one, b/c the car ran a lot smoother, and the tach signal is now a lot more stable.... the coil pins on the module are a lot thicker too... which tells me it can probably handle more current.
OK enough rambling... just thought it was cool we are tuned well enough to hit almost 9000 rpms now... and the AFR never got too far away from 13.2:1 which is what we tuned for... (although there is some question on whether that is the BEST AFR to be aiming for).
Yesterday Jason and I took his 7 to 8800 rpms... (and it was still producing power), but in the process fried his ignition module (it's some POS GM rigged up stuff that I set up till I can get the stock leading working this week with the stock CAS). It kinda sucked; he took it to 8800, then we drove it like 30 or 40 miles, then suddnly the tach signal from the module goes frickin haywire. I get out of the car, and go futz with the wiring and stuff, start the car back up, and it seems fine. Start driving it again, tach signal goes haywire and takes the TPS signal with it (musta been some interesting electrical interferance in the engine bay at that point). So we called brandon, who rushed from home with the cheaper but better replacement module, I do a quick replacement of it, and bam! it works fine... and actually runs smoother than before.
I think the fact that we had dwell at 3.3 ms, and discharge time at .5 ms (total 3.8 ms) is part of what killed it.... we ran the poor module at 114% duty cycle at 8800 rpms. So I dropped the dwell to 3.2 ms with the new module, but I think the new module was made to handle more dwell than the other one, b/c the car ran a lot smoother, and the tach signal is now a lot more stable.... the coil pins on the module are a lot thicker too... which tells me it can probably handle more current.
OK enough rambling... just thought it was cool we are tuned well enough to hit almost 9000 rpms now... and the AFR never got too far away from 13.2:1 which is what we tuned for... (although there is some question on whether that is the BEST AFR to be aiming for).
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,855
Likes: 517
From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Originally Posted by AkumaKuruma
at least yer not getting it where you can DRIVE in neutral. THATS scary. my old Tercel's tranny screwed up like that.
He had to hold the clutch down to stop it from moving in neutral... THAT'S when **** is bad, when you can move a manual tranny car in neutral. He promptly drained it and put proper gear oil in.
Originally Posted by muythaibxr
wee! I'm changing the subject!
Yesterday Jason and I took his 7 to 8800 rpms... (and it was still producing power), but in the process fried his ignition module (it's some POS GM rigged up stuff that I set up till I can get the stock leading working this week with the stock CAS). It kinda sucked; he took it to 8800, then we drove it like 30 or 40 miles, then suddnly the tach signal from the module goes frickin haywire. I get out of the car, and go futz with the wiring and stuff, start the car back up, and it seems fine. Start driving it again, tach signal goes haywire and takes the TPS signal with it (musta been some interesting electrical interferance in the engine bay at that point). So we called brandon, who rushed from home with the cheaper but better replacement module, I do a quick replacement of it, and bam! it works fine... and actually runs smoother than before.
I think the fact that we had dwell at 3.3 ms, and discharge time at .5 ms (total 3.8 ms) is part of what killed it.... we ran the poor module at 114% duty cycle at 8800 rpms. So I dropped the dwell to 3.2 ms with the new module, but I think the new module was made to handle more dwell than the other one, b/c the car ran a lot smoother, and the tach signal is now a lot more stable.... the coil pins on the module are a lot thicker too... which tells me it can probably handle more current.
OK enough rambling... just thought it was cool we are tuned well enough to hit almost 9000 rpms now... and the AFR never got too far away from 13.2:1 which is what we tuned for... (although there is some question on whether that is the BEST AFR to be aiming for).
Yesterday Jason and I took his 7 to 8800 rpms... (and it was still producing power), but in the process fried his ignition module (it's some POS GM rigged up stuff that I set up till I can get the stock leading working this week with the stock CAS). It kinda sucked; he took it to 8800, then we drove it like 30 or 40 miles, then suddnly the tach signal from the module goes frickin haywire. I get out of the car, and go futz with the wiring and stuff, start the car back up, and it seems fine. Start driving it again, tach signal goes haywire and takes the TPS signal with it (musta been some interesting electrical interferance in the engine bay at that point). So we called brandon, who rushed from home with the cheaper but better replacement module, I do a quick replacement of it, and bam! it works fine... and actually runs smoother than before.
I think the fact that we had dwell at 3.3 ms, and discharge time at .5 ms (total 3.8 ms) is part of what killed it.... we ran the poor module at 114% duty cycle at 8800 rpms. So I dropped the dwell to 3.2 ms with the new module, but I think the new module was made to handle more dwell than the other one, b/c the car ran a lot smoother, and the tach signal is now a lot more stable.... the coil pins on the module are a lot thicker too... which tells me it can probably handle more current.
OK enough rambling... just thought it was cool we are tuned well enough to hit almost 9000 rpms now... and the AFR never got too far away from 13.2:1 which is what we tuned for... (although there is some question on whether that is the BEST AFR to be aiming for).
i love AWD
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,836
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore, MD
Originally Posted by Icesickkle
I've been checking the forum for like 7 hours now...and nothing...i think you all are dead or something.