Why did you stay n/a?
#26
Sharp Claws
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for those who keep moaning about turbo engine complexity, turbo setups are only as complex as you feel like making them.
the ONLY thing you are adding is the turbo, a few vacuum hoses and plumbing some different exhaust. a simplified turbo rotary is as easy to work on as a holley carbed FB.
the ONLY thing you are adding is the turbo, a few vacuum hoses and plumbing some different exhaust. a simplified turbo rotary is as easy to work on as a holley carbed FB.
#27
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interesting, i have at about 13.8-14:1 in cruise, and its sort of on the lean edge, any leaner and it wants to buck and snort, but doesn't have the energy.
this only works up to about 2500 though, over that vacuum is high enough and it just starts sucking up exhaust gas, so you either need to upshift, or step on it.
i really haven't played with timing at all yet, so i'm not sure what it would do, its actually asking for less timing in the 1500-2000rpm range, it has a little preignition, like an Rx8, it makes that chirping noise
this only works up to about 2500 though, over that vacuum is high enough and it just starts sucking up exhaust gas, so you either need to upshift, or step on it.
i really haven't played with timing at all yet, so i'm not sure what it would do, its actually asking for less timing in the 1500-2000rpm range, it has a little preignition, like an Rx8, it makes that chirping noise
#28
spoon!
Why N/A? Because there more or less aren't any real roadrace classes that allow turbos. Even if there were, the added torque just means so much more driveline crap to beef up... and that's even ignoring the cost to get a turboed rotary reliable in roadrace conditions. Look at how much people whine about even getting them reliable in street conditions...
#29
High Comp Booster
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I had a turbo Fc, it was fun, but for the track I had an N/a car S5 I did a ton of suspension work and always messed around with the alignment to get it where I wanted, I could keep up with Fd's on the local road course till the straight then catch them on the infield.
Only thing I wish I did differently was put an LSD in my S5 and like a 4.7 final drive would've been a riot, I would lap for 30 mins at a time and have no overheating issues.
infact the only issue i had was I needed an oil pan baffle I had it over filled and would still get the light flashing every so often
Only thing I wish I did differently was put an LSD in my S5 and like a 4.7 final drive would've been a riot, I would lap for 30 mins at a time and have no overheating issues.
infact the only issue i had was I needed an oil pan baffle I had it over filled and would still get the light flashing every so often
#30
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for those who keep moaning about turbo engine complexity, turbo setups are only as complex as you feel like making them.
the ONLY thing you are adding is the turbo, a few vacuum hoses and plumbing some different exhaust. a simplified turbo rotary is as easy to work on as a holley carbed FB.
the ONLY thing you are adding is the turbo, a few vacuum hoses and plumbing some different exhaust. a simplified turbo rotary is as easy to work on as a holley carbed FB.
#35
premix, for f's sake
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"stock" is annoying to me. I cant call something my own until i f#% w/ something.... plus I need to have something that is a nuisance/issue that I have to work around or deal with
things like
- baby sitting the throttle until warm
- driving with a light foot in town due to noise
- keeping the rev's over 1500-2000 regardless
things like
- baby sitting the throttle until warm
- driving with a light foot in town due to noise
- keeping the rev's over 1500-2000 regardless
#38
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actually i just stayed NA cause PJ stayed NA
#39
Rallye RX7
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I'm debating on getting another mikuni PHH carb. possibly whole new side draft manifold an run twin 44phh carbs...
I would have to relocate the alternator but thats not a huge ordeal and this build is too small for that carb, the next engine is going get choked by just one of these...
still in the thinking stages on that one...
I would have to relocate the alternator but thats not a huge ordeal and this build is too small for that carb, the next engine is going get choked by just one of these...
still in the thinking stages on that one...
#40
Old [Sch|F]ool
So the ground was dry and I wanted to test out my new 235/45-17 rear tires and I found that I could still annihilate them in 1st and can get them to spin a bit in 2nd and have to be careful exiting corners in 3rd.
Hey wow, I found the intersection of "not enough" and "too much"
Hey wow, I found the intersection of "not enough" and "too much"
#42
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I had a turbo Fc, it was fun, but for the track I had an N/a car S5 I did a ton of suspension work and always messed around with the alignment to get it where I wanted, I could keep up with Fd's on the local road course till the straight then catch them on the infield.
Only thing I wish I did differently was put an LSD in my S5 and like a 4.7 final drive would've been a riot, I would lap for 30 mins at a time and have no overheating issues.
infact the only issue i had was I needed an oil pan baffle I had it over filled and would still get the light flashing every so often
Only thing I wish I did differently was put an LSD in my S5 and like a 4.7 final drive would've been a riot, I would lap for 30 mins at a time and have no overheating issues.
infact the only issue i had was I needed an oil pan baffle I had it over filled and would still get the light flashing every so often
i have been trin to source a 5.12 ring and pinion set for my half bridge individual throttle body injected FC. i loved the car on a just switching form a 4.10 to a 4.30 gear a 5.12 will be wreckless. both high way gas mileage will suck
#43
Information Regurgitator
Thread Starter
Well it is now decision time. My engine locked up while starting Monday. It had 147k on Mazda 3pc seals so I suspect one fell out. Find out once I tear it apart. May be forced to stay n/a due to finances and the crapshoot that it sounds like Jspec engines are. I had pretty much decided to stay n/a anyway. I'll do some port work while I'm in there. Probably use Mazdatrix's 6-port template for the intake and thier exhaust template as well.
#44
R.I.P. Guitarjunkie28
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YES YES YES......... i have seen stock port FCS shred minutes off of their lap time with a 4.7 and 5.12 final drive gears the stock 4.10 is no where near the amount of leverage a rotary engine needs
i have been trin to source a 5.12 ring and pinion set for my half bridge individual throttle body injected FC. i loved the car on a just switching form a 4.10 to a 4.30 gear a 5.12 will be wreckless. both high way gas mileage will suck
i have been trin to source a 5.12 ring and pinion set for my half bridge individual throttle body injected FC. i loved the car on a just switching form a 4.10 to a 4.30 gear a 5.12 will be wreckless. both high way gas mileage will suck
#45
Rallye RX7
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Mazdatrix sells them, although they are not cheap: Cart Price Check Part:27-1100-512C
that and the difference between 4.10 and 4.30s is barely noticible. I want some 4.777 or 5.12s. But I got more important things to mess with first.
#46
NASA-MW ST4
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each has their benefits
n/a is the most reliable way to make power, everyone with a turbo eventually blows an engine or 3.
turbo is much easier to make more power when you want it.
n/a is a challenge for some people. porting, intake, exhaust and tuning combinations always give different results.
n/a's sacrifice noise for power. every car over 200whp is almost always ear bleedingly loud, with some exceptions but rarely very streetable without notice.
n/a is the most reliable way to make power, everyone with a turbo eventually blows an engine or 3.
turbo is much easier to make more power when you want it.
n/a is a challenge for some people. porting, intake, exhaust and tuning combinations always give different results.
n/a's sacrifice noise for power. every car over 200whp is almost always ear bleedingly loud, with some exceptions but rarely very streetable without notice.
I do wish it could be a bit quieter, but right now its not all that bad.
#48
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i'm considering ripping the turbo off my project FC and going NA...
#49
Rotary Freak
Another thing to think of is that almost all of the race turbo rotaries that I have seen can only make max power for a set number of laps then need to ease off for a bit to reduce underhood temps. It may be 20 minutes, 30 minutes or 5 laps, before air inlet temps go through the roof or oil or water temps.
Also the cars just seem fragile. One mistake and poof. My NA RX7 is like a rented mule. Beat on it all day long and you still drive it home.
Eric
Also the cars just seem fragile. One mistake and poof. My NA RX7 is like a rented mule. Beat on it all day long and you still drive it home.
Eric