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Why did you stay n/a?

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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 11:52 AM
  #26  
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for those who keep moaning about turbo engine complexity, turbo setups are only as complex as you feel like making them.

the ONLY thing you are adding is the turbo, a few vacuum hoses and plumbing some different exhaust. a simplified turbo rotary is as easy to work on as a holley carbed FB.
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 12:06 PM
  #27  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
interesting, i have at about 13.8-14:1 in cruise, and its sort of on the lean edge, any leaner and it wants to buck and snort, but doesn't have the energy.

this only works up to about 2500 though, over that vacuum is high enough and it just starts sucking up exhaust gas, so you either need to upshift, or step on it.

i really haven't played with timing at all yet, so i'm not sure what it would do, its actually asking for less timing in the 1500-2000rpm range, it has a little preignition, like an Rx8, it makes that chirping noise
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 03:39 PM
  #28  
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Why N/A? Because there more or less aren't any real roadrace classes that allow turbos. Even if there were, the added torque just means so much more driveline crap to beef up... and that's even ignoring the cost to get a turboed rotary reliable in roadrace conditions. Look at how much people whine about even getting them reliable in street conditions...
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 04:20 PM
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I had a turbo Fc, it was fun, but for the track I had an N/a car S5 I did a ton of suspension work and always messed around with the alignment to get it where I wanted, I could keep up with Fd's on the local road course till the straight then catch them on the infield.

Only thing I wish I did differently was put an LSD in my S5 and like a 4.7 final drive would've been a riot, I would lap for 30 mins at a time and have no overheating issues.

infact the only issue i had was I needed an oil pan baffle I had it over filled and would still get the light flashing every so often
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 07:15 PM
  #30  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
for those who keep moaning about turbo engine complexity, turbo setups are only as complex as you feel like making them.

the ONLY thing you are adding is the turbo, a few vacuum hoses and plumbing some different exhaust. a simplified turbo rotary is as easy to work on as a holley carbed FB.
you're kind of right, i'd be complaining less if i just did a stockish turbo car...
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 07:29 PM
  #31  
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cheaper to keep er
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 08:12 PM
  #32  
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What's "stock"?
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 10:32 PM
  #33  
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Something you make soup out of? I dunno how that's relevant though...
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 10:41 PM
  #34  
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Add some veggies and spices and maybe some meat or pasta and you can have a very nice soup.

But just having "stock" is so unsatisfying, no?
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 10:59 PM
  #35  
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"stock" is annoying to me. I cant call something my own until i f#% w/ something.... plus I need to have something that is a nuisance/issue that I have to work around or deal with

things like

- baby sitting the throttle until warm
- driving with a light foot in town due to noise
- keeping the rev's over 1500-2000 regardless
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 11:03 PM
  #36  
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I don't do any of that...
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 03:42 PM
  #37  
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Yeah I can cook food on my heat shield above my header. Get like a microwaveable burrito or slider.
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 02:50 PM
  #38  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
actually i just stayed NA cause PJ stayed NA
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 03:45 PM
  #39  
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I'm debating on getting another mikuni PHH carb. possibly whole new side draft manifold an run twin 44phh carbs...

I would have to relocate the alternator but thats not a huge ordeal and this build is too small for that carb, the next engine is going get choked by just one of these...

still in the thinking stages on that one...
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 10:30 PM
  #40  
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So the ground was dry and I wanted to test out my new 235/45-17 rear tires and I found that I could still annihilate them in 1st and can get them to spin a bit in 2nd and have to be careful exiting corners in 3rd.

Hey wow, I found the intersection of "not enough" and "too much"
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 10:18 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by peejay

Hey wow, I found the intersection of "not enough" and "too much"
It only took a few years
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 03:31 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Bwek
I had a turbo Fc, it was fun, but for the track I had an N/a car S5 I did a ton of suspension work and always messed around with the alignment to get it where I wanted, I could keep up with Fd's on the local road course till the straight then catch them on the infield.

Only thing I wish I did differently was put an LSD in my S5 and like a 4.7 final drive would've been a riot, I would lap for 30 mins at a time and have no overheating issues.

infact the only issue i had was I needed an oil pan baffle I had it over filled and would still get the light flashing every so often
YES YES YES......... i have seen stock port FCS shred minutes off of their lap time with a 4.7 and 5.12 final drive gears the stock 4.10 is no where near the amount of leverage a rotary engine needs

i have been trin to source a 5.12 ring and pinion set for my half bridge individual throttle body injected FC. i loved the car on a just switching form a 4.10 to a 4.30 gear a 5.12 will be wreckless. both high way gas mileage will suck
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 12:51 PM
  #43  
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Well it is now decision time. My engine locked up while starting Monday. It had 147k on Mazda 3pc seals so I suspect one fell out. Find out once I tear it apart. May be forced to stay n/a due to finances and the crapshoot that it sounds like Jspec engines are. I had pretty much decided to stay n/a anyway. I'll do some port work while I'm in there. Probably use Mazdatrix's 6-port template for the intake and thier exhaust template as well.
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 01:14 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Chriz88DX
YES YES YES......... i have seen stock port FCS shred minutes off of their lap time with a 4.7 and 5.12 final drive gears the stock 4.10 is no where near the amount of leverage a rotary engine needs

i have been trin to source a 5.12 ring and pinion set for my half bridge individual throttle body injected FC. i loved the car on a just switching form a 4.10 to a 4.30 gear a 5.12 will be wreckless. both high way gas mileage will suck
Mazdatrix sells them, although they are not cheap: Cart Price Check Part:27-1100-512C
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 03:04 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by -=Lil Red=-
Mazdatrix sells them, although they are not cheap: Cart Price Check Part:27-1100-512C
No they are not.. and NA LSDs are becomming hard to find...

that and the difference between 4.10 and 4.30s is barely noticible. I want some 4.777 or 5.12s. But I got more important things to mess with first.
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 10:31 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
each has their benefits

n/a is the most reliable way to make power, everyone with a turbo eventually blows an engine or 3.

turbo is much easier to make more power when you want it.

n/a is a challenge for some people. porting, intake, exhaust and tuning combinations always give different results.

n/a's sacrifice noise for power. every car over 200whp is almost always ear bleedingly loud, with some exceptions but rarely very streetable without notice.
n/a is a challange, I think that's WHY I stayed n/a. Its almost too easy to make power on a turbo, and you really can only have only have so much fun on the street with big power. I also would rather place emphasis on the schmuck behind the wheel during a track day then just terrorizing the straights.

I do wish it could be a bit quieter, but right now its not all that bad.
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 04:30 PM
  #47  
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Response and balance are the most important thing in a car to me. For instance, my favorite F1 car is the Lotus 49. N/A does it best.
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 07:27 PM
  #48  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
i'm considering ripping the turbo off my project FC and going NA...
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 04:16 PM
  #49  
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Another thing to think of is that almost all of the race turbo rotaries that I have seen can only make max power for a set number of laps then need to ease off for a bit to reduce underhood temps. It may be 20 minutes, 30 minutes or 5 laps, before air inlet temps go through the roof or oil or water temps.

Also the cars just seem fragile. One mistake and poof. My NA RX7 is like a rented mule. Beat on it all day long and you still drive it home.

Eric
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Old May 20, 2013 | 03:18 PM
  #50  
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Why did I stay N/A?

Because turbos put me in a different racing class, where I must have 600 hp to be competitive.
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