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Stock port renesis dyno'd

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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 09:02 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by rotarygod
I wouldn't laugh at that idea at all. I've speculated about it but have never tried it.
Nore have i. i just can't justify spending the money on a kit, for little reward. to run a few points leaner, and save fuel? would .95 lambda with water make more power then .85 lambda without? maybe if you run even more advanced timing, as if water is going to raise the knock/torque threshold, but the Grand AM series doesn't allow such extras anyways. not even porting. for those of us would want to stay n/a for endurance/abuse-taking reliability, maybe wi, in super small doses, could be such a benefit, time to get some sprays/pumps/ and do some testing.
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 01:28 PM
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atm EGTs are around 875 degC, increasing timing has quite a bit influence on EGT, but running 98octane RON, power started to drop when going more advanced without noticeable knock, but this engine seems nowhere as sensible to timing as a tuned piston engine.. going 5 degrees later maybe makes 2-4hp difference

Going richer than 13:1 decreased power, probaly due too the lower flame front speed I guess
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 03:48 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Rub20B
atm EGTs are around 875 degC, increasing timing has quite a bit influence on EGT, but running 98octane RON, power started to drop when going more advanced without noticeable knock, but this engine seems nowhere as sensible to timing as a tuned piston engine.. going 5 degrees later maybe makes 2-4hp difference

Going richer than 13:1 decreased power, probaly due too the lower flame front speed I guess
the rotor is geared 3:1, so compared to a piston engine there is a lot more "dwell" time around TDC. go look at the difference in rotor position vs crank angle.

anyways i think that's why the rotary has a big window where timing isn't sensitive, compared to a piston engine anyways
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 03:52 PM
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will the class allow you to run E85? it should bring your EGTs down and allow you to run more advance, win win. downside is you will need to add weight to the vehicle in the form of a larger fuel container, lose. if this is endurance racing due to more often refuelling, second lose making it a push but at least the motor will survive the more harsh environment edging it towards beneficial.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Nov 15, 2011 at 03:56 PM.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 05:14 AM
  #30  
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Unfortuantly here in Belgium E85 isnt affordable commonly available.. altough we run a 250cc aixro single rotor on it (carbed) which works really well
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Old Jun 5, 2012 | 02:36 AM
  #31  
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Photo of the miata in action

Somehow an R8 couldn't create a gap on the track, I think he wasn't trying hard enough
Attached Thumbnails Stock port renesis dyno'd-dsc_0661.jpg  
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 02:56 AM
  #32  
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in action, with the R8

its quite funny that one only uses gear 3 and 4, 5 is possible on the straight before the chicane, but I seems to take the curve before to slow, my dad seems to take it better and is able to use a good porting in 5th there .. close ratio box would help.. and don't mind my sucky driving skills, when looking at the video I can always see alot fo room for improvement
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 05:30 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Rub20B
MX-5 @ Zolder 20/06/2012 racing Audi R8 - YouTube

in action, with the R8

its quite funny that one only uses gear 3 and 4, 5 is possible on the straight before the chicane, but I seems to take the curve before to slow, my dad seems to take it better and is able to use a good porting in 5th there .. close ratio box would help.. and don't mind my sucky driving skills, when looking at the video I can always see alot fo room for improvement
For those with good ears, there appears to some misfire now and then during and just after tip in, I never noticed this with the stock rx8 exh, but now we have the racingbeat rx8 race muffler. plugs and leads are only a few track sessions old and are stock rx8 plugs, 7 leading and 9 trailing.

this friday we will drive again when dry, then I will see if the acceleration enrichtment needs to be finetuned, or if there is noise on the tps signal causing the accel enrichment to be off
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Old May 29, 2013 | 05:46 AM
  #34  
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It finally died.. funny wise the engine and gearbox died sort of the same time..

in the morning everything was fine, engine sounded crisp. then after some driving the gears started grinding and the box started to make a hell lot of bearing noise. pulled in the pits, oil was still there in the box, when restarting the engine I heard there was already a face with no compression, altough it would still start and sort of idle.

then my dad still raced it for 2 more hours futher on track, eventually the gearbox stopped making noises, altough there aint no more synchro on 3rd gear. rear rotor is dead too..

probaly the engine died because of lack of lubrication as the fuel was in there for 4 months, maybe premix went to the bottom of the tank and got all trough the engine in the first lap :/

now the question is: rebuilt the renny or go for a PP? gearbox might be rebuiltable or switched out for something with closer ratios
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Old May 29, 2013 | 01:41 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Rub20B
probaly the engine died because of lack of lubrication as the fuel was in there for 4 months, maybe premix went to the bottom of the tank and got all trough the engine in the first lap :/
That can't happen. The oil is soluble in gasoline, the oil won't separate out of the gasoline any more than the lighter fractions will separate out of the heavier ones since gasoline is a mix of 10-50 different chemicals.

And even if it did happen, the fuel pump would have pumped it around and re-mixed it before you even got the car moving. Most of the fuel the fuel pumps will go right back to the tank.
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 11:03 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Rub20B
It finally died.. funny wise the engine and gearbox died sort of the same time..

in the morning everything was fine, engine sounded crisp. then after some driving the gears started grinding and the box started to make a hell lot of bearing noise. pulled in the pits, oil was still there in the box, when restarting the engine I heard there was already a face with no compression, altough it would still start and sort of idle.

then my dad still raced it for 2 more hours futher on track, eventually the gearbox stopped making noises, altough there aint no more synchro on 3rd gear. rear rotor is dead too..

probaly the engine died because of lack of lubrication as the fuel was in there for 4 months, maybe premix went to the bottom of the tank and got all trough the engine in the first lap :/

now the question is: rebuilt the renny or go for a PP? gearbox might be rebuiltable or switched out for something with closer ratios
Why choose when you can have both?

Here is a pic of my motor. PP renesis... Will be a while before I finish. But if you do it first, share what you learn with me!!!




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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 12:15 PM
  #37  
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Looking nice, but dont you think the exh is more the restriction than the intake? Good bridgeport 4 port engine makes (as i read) between 220 and 250whp. Even a ported rennie struggles make 250 at the crank.. Is the meat there in the housings to make a periperal exh port?
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 06:13 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Rub20B
Looking nice, but dont you think the exh is more the restriction than the intake? Good bridgeport 4 port engine makes (as i read) between 220 and 250whp. Even a ported rennie struggles make 250 at the crank.. Is the meat there in the housings to make a periperal exh port?
I highly doubt the Reni PP motor will make as much as a Old style 13b. But I am doing this as a hobby/fun and not actually competing in any events.

But, yes... You can add peripheral exhaust ports to the Reni Housings. Not sure what the outcome will be power wise.
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 07:37 AM
  #39  
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With semi pp intake and exh nothong should stop it from making as much power, it has light rotors and higher compression..
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