NA Bolt on's
10-21-11, 04:36 PM
#26
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since the haltech is adjustable for dwell, you could use any coil really. you just need 2 of em.
pic is the friday car meet in bergen (i guess).
10-22-11, 12:59 PM
#29
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10-22-11, 08:06 PM
#31
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10-23-11, 02:17 PM
#33
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well its does make more power stock VS stock. the Rx8 uses the same transmission bolt pattern as everything else post 1974, but it uses a turbo size clutch. so to use the NA clutch, you need a light flywheel
10-23-11, 06:05 PM
#34
I decided to be an ******* and blow of the deal on my T2 engine, as far as i can tell, the 4 port block is a better base for a bridgeport build. So i will brideport my already streetported T2 irons, and then get a S5NA rotating assembly,. And that should be it for the engine mods.
So what other parts should i upgrade on the shortblock?
So what other parts should i upgrade on the shortblock?
11-04-11, 01:55 PM
#37
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I decided to be an ******* and blow of the deal on my T2 engine, as far as i can tell, the 4 port block is a better base for a bridgeport build. So i will brideport my already streetported T2 irons, and then get a S5NA rotating assembly,. And that should be it for the engine mods.
So what other parts should i upgrade on the shortblock?
So what other parts should i upgrade on the shortblock?
11-04-11, 03:52 PM
#38
What if i want to go higher, say 10-11k?
Got impulsive and bought semi pp housings
Going to build some sort of sequential throttle setup, plan on having the stock ports open to 20-30% before the pp's start to open and having all tb's reach 100% at the same time, shouldn't be to difficult, just need to find a way of getting it looking nice and clean
Got impulsive and bought semi pp housings
Going to build some sort of sequential throttle setup, plan on having the stock ports open to 20-30% before the pp's start to open and having all tb's reach 100% at the same time, shouldn't be to difficult, just need to find a way of getting it looking nice and clean
11-04-11, 06:10 PM
#41
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Unless you want to be disabled for life, there is no point.
You will have hard time to make any power at such elevated rpms. It requires tuning and making everything work as package. By the time (if) you will make some power at such rpms, it won´t be usable and engine performance as whole will be poor. Not even taking into account engine life which gets exponentially shorter with anything over 7000 rpms.
Seriously, you asked on many forums, but you didn´t share any realistic goals. Jumping from one idea to the other and hoping it will make some killer engine just doesn´t work.
You will have hard time to make any power at such elevated rpms. It requires tuning and making everything work as package. By the time (if) you will make some power at such rpms, it won´t be usable and engine performance as whole will be poor. Not even taking into account engine life which gets exponentially shorter with anything over 7000 rpms.
Seriously, you asked on many forums, but you didn´t share any realistic goals. Jumping from one idea to the other and hoping it will make some killer engine just doesn´t work.
11-11-11, 02:24 PM
#42
Here's the thing about just arbitrarily trying to go higher in higher in rpm. This is all going to assume that you aren't going to spin a bearing, shatter a flywheel and amputate your feet or potentially kill yourself and others when the shards go flying through the floorboard, or have your rotor faces crash into the side plates from severe eccentric shaft warping which will destroy your engine. It's also assuming you have a way to tune your engine for that rpm. Anyways...
If we ignore the overwhelming odds against success and just assume none of that will happen, you are going to hit airflow and tuning issues with the intake and exhaust system. You may be thinking that you'll just run a short intake and exhaust so it gets tuned to a higher rpm. On paper this works fine. However as your power band gets higher in the rpm range, it also gets narrower. Lets say your standard engine has a max rpm of 8000 and makes good average power at full throttle from 5500-8000 rpm. This is all made up btw. That would be a nice usable power band that is 2500 rpm wide. Now lets say you have an engine that has a max rpm of 10000 and your usable power band is from 8500-10000. You can see that it got narrower and is only usable over a 1500 rpm wide range. Go up higher and it will narrow even more.
The higher your redline, the more a close gear ratio transmission becomes necessary. Since you are probably using a standard street car transmission and gear ratios you are going to find that there is no point in revving an engine to 12K when your gearbox wants to be shifted at 7K. It's a complete waste of time. You aren't getting the performance you think you are.
The only way you would EVER want to rev this high is for some special reason where you are in a race situation and the only way you can be competitive is to rev it that high. Even then it will only be limited to a few seconds at a time and you will have gone to so much time and effort, not to mention spent so much money that there would have been no point to it.
If you do decide to still pursue this anyways, when something fails take pictures. I want to put a "fail" border around it.
If we ignore the overwhelming odds against success and just assume none of that will happen, you are going to hit airflow and tuning issues with the intake and exhaust system. You may be thinking that you'll just run a short intake and exhaust so it gets tuned to a higher rpm. On paper this works fine. However as your power band gets higher in the rpm range, it also gets narrower. Lets say your standard engine has a max rpm of 8000 and makes good average power at full throttle from 5500-8000 rpm. This is all made up btw. That would be a nice usable power band that is 2500 rpm wide. Now lets say you have an engine that has a max rpm of 10000 and your usable power band is from 8500-10000. You can see that it got narrower and is only usable over a 1500 rpm wide range. Go up higher and it will narrow even more.
The higher your redline, the more a close gear ratio transmission becomes necessary. Since you are probably using a standard street car transmission and gear ratios you are going to find that there is no point in revving an engine to 12K when your gearbox wants to be shifted at 7K. It's a complete waste of time. You aren't getting the performance you think you are.
The only way you would EVER want to rev this high is for some special reason where you are in a race situation and the only way you can be competitive is to rev it that high. Even then it will only be limited to a few seconds at a time and you will have gone to so much time and effort, not to mention spent so much money that there would have been no point to it.
If you do decide to still pursue this anyways, when something fails take pictures. I want to put a "fail" border around it.
11-20-11, 04:54 PM
#43
not trying to get the engine to make all power above 9000rpm, i just want it to be able to handle high rpm in case that is where the powerband turns out to be. But i told the guy doing the semi pp that i wanted it ported so that the powerband isn't to high.
