So i have taken out my turbo engine to make some more or less big changes, at this will take lots and lots of time and money. So i bought a NA engine, so i can have my FC on the road while i build the turbo engine.
But 155hp, that is just to damn little, wich bolt on mods give the most bang for buck?

I already have:
2*2.5" SS exhaust, with very little backpressure/restriction to the airflow.

I will buy/build:
true dual rotary works 2.25" header.
CAI

And where do i go from there? is there any more easy/ low cost stuff i can do, wich doesn't hurt reliability or cause much downtime?

 

you're on the right track with the exhaust, every improvement there is noticeable.

the ECU/ tuning is the other biggie. the stock map is ok, but but you can have a much broader power band if you can tune the fuel and ignition

 

I'm going to go standalone on the turbo engine, so i could always try it out on the NA engine first. Most likely going to buy Haltech sprint RE.

 

i don't know what that does to your time table, but yeah learning the new ecu on an NA engine is a lot more fun.

BTW the family trip this year included norway, its beautiful.

 

advance the timing 3-4 degrees, tb mob, port the tb, and a cold air box mod or something. i significantly felt the difference from removing the rubber moldings on the hood so air could go in through the head lights when its in the sleepy eye position. having the aux ports lubed up also makes the car more responsive. have fun with the throttle response of the n/a while you can cause i did ha. oh yeah you will be surprised how quick your throttle response will be after cleaning out the intake manifolds with de greaser and a brush. so much carbon in these 20 year old cars.

 

this sounds like the dumbest ricer mod ever, but the intake temps do drop with the headlights up....

 

lol yes

 

So a CAI box with a feed hose from the front should do the trick then?

And how do i advance timing, by turning the CAS?

 

HA! hey whatever works man even if its temporary. theres about a half inch gap between the headlight housing and hood which is enough to get the cold air in.

 

you would have better luck propping up the hing side so it vents over the windshield as the air passes through the engine bay.

 

i know! it sounds like it would never work, but actually it does.

 

What ecu would you recommend that would work with an NA and a TII swap?

 

n/a haltech
t2 rtek

 

What does it take to convert my T2 engine to NA?

And i don't just mean changing out the sensors, but getting high comp rotors and so on. Wich rotors are the best for a NA setup?

Basicly a parts list of whats needed.


Considering ditching the turbo all together

 

I'll trade you my motor for yours!

 

lol, ok if you pay for shipping :P

 

And now I realize you're in norway lol.

 

Just sold the T2 longblock(without the turbo) + an na gearbox that need's overhauling for 1000usd

So now it's decided, instead of just going na while i finish the turbo engine, i will go the NA route all the way.

So i wan't more than 200whp.

My plan do make this happen:

S5 roating assembly, get it balanced so i can run higher rpm's (want to be able to run 10k redline or more??)
Bridgeport
true dual header and dual exhaust, SS all the way.(already got it)
Haltech sprint RE
tweakit ITB's(or build a itb setup myself)
upgraded spark? (is it needed, and what should i get)

 

looks good. the limit to the stock ignition is since it fires TWICE each revolution charge time gets too small to charge the coils 100% over like 6000rpm. the cheap solution, is just to run 2 leading coils and have it run sequential ignition, it fires half as often, and thus doubles the charge time. the haltech should be able to do it.

an MSD box would work too.

 

I think those setups use two *trailing* ignitions, since those fire independantly.
I like lightened flywheels on NA's. You don't gain hp, but it gives the illusion of torque. You'll need the lightened flywheel and an automatic counterweight from the same series engine.

 

What about LS2 coils?

 

+1000

For the sake of simplicity, I would try to run two leading coils from trailing signals. Each coil would be connected to leading and trailing of one chamber ie no split and charge time would be same as fully sequential system And it should be cheap

 

those work fine, but you have to buy them and the stock FC coils are usually free

i think the haltech can just run a direct fire setup

 

Money is not a big issue, and rx7 are rare in norway so finding a set of used coils for sale could be difficult. + LS2 coils would be new, not 25 years old..

 

I have a welder, a spare lim, 4 49mm tb's from my Neon, so i will start planning and then fab a itb myself.