Looking for R+D testers for Defined Auto promo headers
Looking for R+D testers for Defined Auto promo headers
We originally had 10 spots open for this deal, now there is 7 left. Everyone will be considered for the program. Just post on this thread or send me a PM if you are interested. 12a, 13b 6-port, 13b 4-port, 13b full P-port, Bridge port, ALL types will be considered to join in R+D development.
The deal- Testers will purchase a Defined Autoworks prototype header that is built specifically for their engine setup and car. Cost will be a very discounted price. If no extra power is found vs. the existing header, tester can return for a full refund!
All headers carry a 1 year warranty.
What we need- Car must be using some type of programable ecu. so that the user has control over Air fuel, and timing. The tester agrees to visit a dyno before and after new header install. The tester also must have knowledge of how to tune the vehicle, or has access to a tuner. Once the results are found, the user agrees to publish the results on forums.
Pricing will vary from $480-580 depending on the application. Regular price is $750-800 so this is a heavy discount. We MAY also give a "sponsorship deal" if our decals are applied to the car, and the vehicle participates in some form of racing.
The deal- Testers will purchase a Defined Autoworks prototype header that is built specifically for their engine setup and car. Cost will be a very discounted price. If no extra power is found vs. the existing header, tester can return for a full refund!
All headers carry a 1 year warranty.
What we need- Car must be using some type of programable ecu. so that the user has control over Air fuel, and timing. The tester agrees to visit a dyno before and after new header install. The tester also must have knowledge of how to tune the vehicle, or has access to a tuner. Once the results are found, the user agrees to publish the results on forums.
Pricing will vary from $480-580 depending on the application. Regular price is $750-800 so this is a heavy discount. We MAY also give a "sponsorship deal" if our decals are applied to the car, and the vehicle participates in some form of racing.
Am I in one of those spots? I should be contacting you tomorrow sometime ... Just one question though, who am I asking for? 
Also to maybe clear out some things, for the dyno results, you don't need to have an immediate before dyno correct? As in my case I know it was doing 164.6 whp and 132.2 ft-lb of torque and this is after everything else that I have altered and has since then changed nothing as far as parts nor tuning on the car.
Here's my dyno of that though:
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1274477137
I can't exactly do another one right now do to a major reason (my current header has developed a nice crack in the collector that is beyond repair). But here's all my modifications as of right now:
12a Street Port
SDJ headers
Megasquirt ECU
Racing beat 2 piece intake manifold (port matched and all casting cleaned)
added 1/2" spacer between upper and lower manifold
47mm Fuji Racing Throttle Bodies
1/4" phenolic spacer between throttle bodies and upper intake manifold
2 x 750cc siemens injectors
The rest of the exhaust is all custom including the 2 mufflers, all tig welded and all mandrel bent

Also to maybe clear out some things, for the dyno results, you don't need to have an immediate before dyno correct? As in my case I know it was doing 164.6 whp and 132.2 ft-lb of torque and this is after everything else that I have altered and has since then changed nothing as far as parts nor tuning on the car.
Here's my dyno of that though:
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1274477137
I can't exactly do another one right now do to a major reason (my current header has developed a nice crack in the collector that is beyond repair). But here's all my modifications as of right now:
12a Street Port
SDJ headers
Megasquirt ECU
Racing beat 2 piece intake manifold (port matched and all casting cleaned)
added 1/2" spacer between upper and lower manifold
47mm Fuji Racing Throttle Bodies
1/4" phenolic spacer between throttle bodies and upper intake manifold
2 x 750cc siemens injectors
The rest of the exhaust is all custom including the 2 mufflers, all tig welded and all mandrel bent
Am I in one of those spots? I should be contacting you tomorrow sometime ... Just one question though, who am I asking for? 
Also to maybe clear out some things, for the dyno results, you don't need to have an immediate before dyno correct? As in my case I know it was doing 164.6 whp and 132.2 ft-lb of torque and this is after everything else that I have altered and has since then changed nothing as far as parts nor tuning on the car.
Here's my dyno of that though:
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1274477137
I can't exactly do another one right now do to a major reason (my current header has developed a nice crack in the collector that is beyond repair). But here's all my modifications as of right now:
12a Street Port
SDJ headers
Megasquirt ECU
Racing beat 2 piece intake manifold (port matched and all casting cleaned)
added 1/2" spacer between upper and lower manifold
47mm Fuji Racing Throttle Bodies
1/4" phenolic spacer between throttle bodies and upper intake manifold
2 x 750cc siemens injectors
The rest of the exhaust is all custom including the 2 mufflers, all tig welded and all mandrel bent

Also to maybe clear out some things, for the dyno results, you don't need to have an immediate before dyno correct? As in my case I know it was doing 164.6 whp and 132.2 ft-lb of torque and this is after everything else that I have altered and has since then changed nothing as far as parts nor tuning on the car.
Here's my dyno of that though:
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1274477137
I can't exactly do another one right now do to a major reason (my current header has developed a nice crack in the collector that is beyond repair). But here's all my modifications as of right now:
12a Street Port
SDJ headers
Megasquirt ECU
Racing beat 2 piece intake manifold (port matched and all casting cleaned)
added 1/2" spacer between upper and lower manifold
47mm Fuji Racing Throttle Bodies
1/4" phenolic spacer between throttle bodies and upper intake manifold
2 x 750cc siemens injectors
The rest of the exhaust is all custom including the 2 mufflers, all tig welded and all mandrel bent
And no, you do not need to re-dyno before hand. Since the setup has not changed, its more than good enough for a comparison.
Im just posting this for Logan, his internet is being stupid.
There were some people obviously not making themselves informed on this product.
"Its not being a guinea pig if the product has already been proven. This is not a new idea that we have, these headers have been developed for over 3 years
The design is holding the current highest document n/a street port 13b, street port 20b, and semi p-port 20b. We would not offer a full money back guarantee if I thought each one wouldn't produce more power than any other header on the market. "
This a two year old dyno chart of our 13b first gen street port.
There were some people obviously not making themselves informed on this product.
"Its not being a guinea pig if the product has already been proven. This is not a new idea that we have, these headers have been developed for over 3 years
The design is holding the current highest document n/a street port 13b, street port 20b, and semi p-port 20b. We would not offer a full money back guarantee if I thought each one wouldn't produce more power than any other header on the market. "This a two year old dyno chart of our 13b first gen street port.
Why is it that the second gen guys are always a pain in the butt? lol ... seriously, i've kinda been following the thread you created in there for these headers and man are they a headache!
On another note I found a picture that shows the exact location of where my current center muffler sits at as shown here:

As you can tell the flange is just a bit forward (towards the front of the car) of the transmission mount bolt. Would it be easier if you left that bit not welded on till I come down and we can just line up the flange and maybe even just a bit of straight section to make sure it sits perfectly?
Would you be able to PM me of a full price (including EGT and O2 bungs) also with the extra labor needed to remove and install the headers?
On another note I found a picture that shows the exact location of where my current center muffler sits at as shown here:

As you can tell the flange is just a bit forward (towards the front of the car) of the transmission mount bolt. Would it be easier if you left that bit not welded on till I come down and we can just line up the flange and maybe even just a bit of straight section to make sure it sits perfectly?
Would you be able to PM me of a full price (including EGT and O2 bungs) also with the extra labor needed to remove and install the headers?
dj55b, I have to agree...
they are so sensitive and sometimes nasty.
I fine this product to be a work of art, combining good looks and design and fuctionality. Now lets get these things installed and start posting results.
Why is it that the second gen guys are always a pain in the butt? lol ... seriously, i've kinda been following the thread you created in there for these headers and man are they a headache!
I fine this product to be a work of art, combining good looks and design and fuctionality. Now lets get these things installed and start posting results.
Last edited by Casual_John; Jan 2, 2011 at 10:08 AM. Reason: to the point...
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I'd love to get in on this but my 13B-PP is operated by a weber 48IDA. I believe that my header wouldn't be included as the primary tubes need to be 92" long. To the drawing board for me this spring....
Holy primary tubes Batman!
Carbs are perfectly fine and will work for our header deal 
92" is very specific. Are they saying that length for ANY p-port, or just for YOUR p-port? Too many combinations of p-port engines to slap a single size on all of them. At any rate that length would be a "long" primary.
We can still build you a header at this length however. Price would be $650

We can still build you a header at this length however. Price would be $650
Last edited by GtoRx7.; Jan 6, 2011 at 12:46 AM.
Yeah, and if you look, Australia is way behind the curve in the N/A department. My 12a is faster than most of their 13bpport cars. Look at their top 10 all motor cars. Pretty bad, so I wouldn't be getting any info from them.
Here are some pics of our hand built collector that is on each of our headers sold. This version is for a 12a, 13b is similar just slightly larger throat diameter. I think this helps convey the differences of our collectors vs. any other header available.






It would be nice to have a before and after dyno run. But if you at least do a after test within a few months I can extend the offer to you as well.
Very nice work. This is a very important component in any header design that is often overlooked.
Wow. That collector looks exactly like the one here,from Columbia River Mandrel Bends.
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog...teel-1031.html
Or very similar. And then you can also choose the same transition . $54.99 Butt Weld or slip on. 304SS, 409 SS would be custom.
GD
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog...teel-1031.html
Or very similar. And then you can also choose the same transition . $54.99 Butt Weld or slip on. 304SS, 409 SS would be custom.
GD
It's an option if someone here wants to try their hand at making a header.
GD
For $190 you can buy a SPD collector made of 321 stainless like this one. Issue of the $54 version is not only the grade, but the convergance angles and throat diameter. While seeming small, using the collector mentioned with its 12-14 degree convergance (eye ball estimate) would drop horsepower a good amount.
Last edited by GtoRx7.; Jan 12, 2011 at 07:35 PM.
Definitely a good cheap method of putting together a home made header
For $190 you can buy a SPD collector made of 321 stainless like this one. Issue of the $54 version is not only the grade, but the convergance angles and throat diameter. While seeming small, using the collector mentioned with its 12-14 degree convergance (eye ball estimate) would drop horsepower a good amount.
For $190 you can buy a SPD collector made of 321 stainless like this one. Issue of the $54 version is not only the grade, but the convergance angles and throat diameter. While seeming small, using the collector mentioned with its 12-14 degree convergance (eye ball estimate) would drop horsepower a good amount.I called them and it's 15 deg.
I hope I didn't come across as insulting you, I was just merely pointing out one of the major difference between the 2.
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