gota b more ppl out there doin n/a perfomance
im thinkin bout rebuiling with all new rotors, housings, and irons...my motor is 24 yrs old w 150k orig...im pretty sure theyre probably all dust by now...cheapest i found rotors for is ~$600ea., housings ~$700ea., and irons idk yet but while the rotors and housings brand new cost ~$2600, and the seals and o-ring kits are ~$1200...in addition ~$5 or $600 more for misc. thats already ~3300-3400...its starting to look expensive...but on the other hand i dont really trust the low priced housings and stuff i find on ebay as the pics dont really give the product justice...cant tell what id be getting....plus if im gona take the time to rebuild the motor, im not gona wana have to take it all apart for a while afterwards so i figured goin brand new and breakin in gently would be the most efficient route...i dont wana half-*** it.
im confident that i can rebuild myself if all the tools and materials were in front of me combined with the FSM and a video or two, however im thinking it might just be cheaper to buy a motor from a respectable company that would use all new stuff...
anyone know of a person and/or company that would sell new rotors, housings, irons for a better price than i found, so that i can rebuild myself? would love to get that exp.
or does someone know where i can buy a (trust-worthy) complete motor (new parts)for a decent price?
oh yeah one more stupid q...p-port? parallel port? bigger than a bridge port?
im confident that i can rebuild myself if all the tools and materials were in front of me combined with the FSM and a video or two, however im thinking it might just be cheaper to buy a motor from a respectable company that would use all new stuff...
anyone know of a person and/or company that would sell new rotors, housings, irons for a better price than i found, so that i can rebuild myself? would love to get that exp.
or does someone know where i can buy a (trust-worthy) complete motor (new parts)for a decent price?
oh yeah one more stupid q...p-port? parallel port? bigger than a bridge port?
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,837
Likes: 3,234
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
ecu choice is up to you, IMO the Rtek is a great choice for a stock port engine.
first off this is a good thread
i have a 87 s4 sport i have been playing around with for about 3 years now with trail and error beening my best bet for the first 2 years
my setup for now is a half bridge (on the aux ports) s4 keg with a s5 intake (total garbage past 7k)
s5 na trans (they are cheap and every have 2 spares)
4.30 pinon gear with in the diff
rtek 2.0
running 550cc primary and secondary injectors that have been rebuilt
cork sport header (should be in the trash)
straight pipe with 3 inch after the header
the car is pretty fun finding the right timing map is what i am working on now.
noise level is loud but saving up for new exhaust i have blown to much cheap stuff.
recently had it on the dyno running stock timing map only change in the timing map was that i had the timing advanced at idle 1500 thru 2k
i made 164 hp 125 TQ
good starting pont i think but furture mods consist of turbo manifold better exhaust setup and more time on the dyno for tuning
here is a video of it when i first got it running with the bridge. now it has about 5k on the motor
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lp17iNant6Q
i have a 87 s4 sport i have been playing around with for about 3 years now with trail and error beening my best bet for the first 2 years
my setup for now is a half bridge (on the aux ports) s4 keg with a s5 intake (total garbage past 7k)
s5 na trans (they are cheap and every have 2 spares)
4.30 pinon gear with in the diff
rtek 2.0
running 550cc primary and secondary injectors that have been rebuilt
cork sport header (should be in the trash)
straight pipe with 3 inch after the header
the car is pretty fun finding the right timing map is what i am working on now.
noise level is loud but saving up for new exhaust i have blown to much cheap stuff.
recently had it on the dyno running stock timing map only change in the timing map was that i had the timing advanced at idle 1500 thru 2k
i made 164 hp 125 TQ
good starting pont i think but furture mods consist of turbo manifold better exhaust setup and more time on the dyno for tuning
here is a video of it when i first got it running with the bridge. now it has about 5k on the motor
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lp17iNant6Q
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,564
Likes: 26
From: Cincinnati, OH
Yeah the Rtek2 was what I was looking at. If I ever went turbo would that ECU still work?
Old [Sch|F]ool
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 12,871
Likes: 574
From: Cleveland, Ohio, USA
The TII manifold looks neat from a theoretical aspect, but it has a horrible shape due to having to clear the turbo on the bottom and the intercooler at the top, and the plenum is just all wrong. Altering the port window to mate up to a 6-port block will just make the situation at the block flange worse.
Try a S4 N/A manifold. It made lots more power everywhere than the Turbo II manifold. More low end, more mid range, and best 1/4mi shiftpoint went from ~7800 to ~8800-9200 so it was flowing a lot better at the top end, too.
The TII manifold looks neat from a theoretical aspect, but it has a horrible shape due to having to clear the turbo on the bottom and the intercooler at the top, and the plenum is just all wrong. Altering the port window to mate up to a 6-port block will just make the situation at the block flange worse.
The TII manifold looks neat from a theoretical aspect, but it has a horrible shape due to having to clear the turbo on the bottom and the intercooler at the top, and the plenum is just all wrong. Altering the port window to mate up to a 6-port block will just make the situation at the block flange worse.
also what header should i try out
and what spark plugs do u run i have found that running all bur9's make the most power up top but under light load the motor bucks compared to the bur7's at the same ignition curve?
sorry if i am thread jacking
Last edited by Chriz88DX; Dec 23, 2010 at 12:44 AM.
If you want a header that will grow with your setup, and provide more power than anything on the market, we can put you on the build list. I have five more spots to fit in our "promotional" pricing. Send me a PM for more info if interested
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,837
Likes: 3,234
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
haltech is universal, so yes. microtech, needs to go back to austrailia to get reprogrammed.
the Rtek could be used on an NA ecu to do a mild turbo setup, although the ecu won't really know it.
you could also get a turbo ecu rteked and run it NA.... then when you go turbo you're all set
the Rtek could be used on an NA ecu to do a mild turbo setup, although the ecu won't really know it.
you could also get a turbo ecu rteked and run it NA.... then when you go turbo you're all set
Thread Starter
86 fc3s base model
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 145
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From: southern oregon
Even with 150k on the engine I am sure the rotors will spec out perfectly fine. The irons most likely will be pretty good too. If not getting them re-surfaced and re-nitrated would be cheaper than new (about $100 per side housing). Getting brand new rotor housings however is always a good idea. We can build this type of engine without a problem, and take pics of the assembly process so you know exactly what is in it. If you choose to go that route
btw i sent you a PM. thanks guys!
and every sensor have to be close to matching in number a n237 ( i think that is is the na number)
need a n237 maf and boost sensor of **** will run crappy
but you can run like a n236 and n237 parts together tho
Last edited by Chriz88DX; Dec 24, 2010 at 05:42 PM.
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,564
Likes: 26
From: Cincinnati, OH
one problem tho turbo ecu's need to see a knock sensor which na's dont have
and every sensor have to be close to matching in number a n237 ( i think that is is the na number)
need a n237 maf and boost sensor of **** will run crappy
but you can run like a n236 and n237 parts together tho
and every sensor have to be close to matching in number a n237 ( i think that is is the na number)
need a n237 maf and boost sensor of **** will run crappy
but you can run like a n236 and n237 parts together tho
ok i am still kinda new to the bridge port thing but this is normal for my car right????
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdLUBWUnkqo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdLUBWUnkqo
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 424
Likes: 0
From: Summerfield,FL
I'm wanting to build an n/a set up. I'm thinking using s5 rotating assembly on my s4 housing with a full pp and a 9lb flywheel with a long tube header and true dual 2.5" each exhaust, I'll b unning a tii drivetrain with a 4.44 rear end with a twin plat clutch. I'm using an fb dizzy with dellorto dhla 48mm side draft carbs will b tuned by Carlos Gonzalos of GNS racing. I'm thinking about using tii housings for a 4 port set up but not sure yet, what u guys think?
The biggest problem I'm having is not sure what to do about exhaust as far as how to keep it quiet enough to street.this car has to remain streetable. I'm buileing for autocross and road racing but drift a little bit.expecting to throw down around 300rwhp. The car is completly gutted and not worried about comfort as it will not b my dd but will street it. What you guys think? Oh, btw I'm posting from my cell phone and have a small screen so sry for the poor typing, I just can't see it so well. Thanks for understanding.
The biggest problem I'm having is not sure what to do about exhaust as far as how to keep it quiet enough to street.this car has to remain streetable. I'm buileing for autocross and road racing but drift a little bit.expecting to throw down around 300rwhp. The car is completly gutted and not worried about comfort as it will not b my dd but will street it. What you guys think? Oh, btw I'm posting from my cell phone and have a small screen so sry for the poor typing, I just can't see it so well. Thanks for understanding.
Old [Sch|F]ool
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 12,871
Likes: 574
From: Cleveland, Ohio, USA
If you're doing a peripheral port then it does not matter if you start with 6-port or 4-port side housings, since the intake ports are just going to be filled with epoxy.
Guaranteed you will not see 300 wheel horsepower with a carburetor and an exhaust that has useful mufflers on it.
Guaranteed you will not see 300 wheel horsepower with a carburetor and an exhaust that has useful mufflers on it.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,837
Likes: 3,234
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
mazda usually brings out all the race cars for sevenstock, and the historics and stuff, and the newer ones aren't that loud, they are still probably too loud for the street
so the muffled setup, is a header into the muffler into turn down. they are running a single 3 or 3.5" pipe and muffler. the muffler is basically custom, as the PP will ruin anything you can buy off the shelf
so the muffled setup, is a header into the muffler into turn down. they are running a single 3 or 3.5" pipe and muffler. the muffler is basically custom, as the PP will ruin anything you can buy off the shelf
Old [Sch|F]ool
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 12,871
Likes: 574
From: Cleveland, Ohio, USA
And you run new intake ports through the rotor housings
Preferably not the way I did it...
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