gota b more ppl out there doin n/a perfomance
 

so theres alot of n/a cars out there, does everyone do a t2 swap or what?
i read somwhere that the bigger the port u go the lower your tourq would b...personally i like my tourqe...any way to increase tourqe and whp equally?
got an 86 n/a s4.

Aaron Cake has a N/A.

Aarons RX-7

I'm stuck in N/A world... That's where the fun is at. Cute and cuddly until I get on the throttle.

i like NA better too. we've got some projects in the pipeline, but no time!

the one i really want to do is go to the dyno with a pipe cutter and get the PP straightened out...

Porting increases torque. Always.

your car runnin yet?

+1 to the N/A!

It all depends on how fast you want to go and how you can handle driveability. Some people puss out and say bridgeports and pport are not streetable because they either have no balls or they don't know how to set one up properly.

So what do you wan't to do with the car?

i don't know about power yet, but i did spend some time tuning and the P port drives like an FC with a TPS that's off a little, and this is with a carb + locked timing. EFI and and ignition curve should make it like a stock FC...

noise is the ONLY thing thats keeping me from using it as a DD, as its FUN.

Or because they are realistic and understand that some people like a/c, power steering, and a radio in their cars. A street car should not EVER be a stripped down bare bones cut up rolling tin can that looks like a race car without a cage with a seat strapped into it. It is no longer a street car at that point. Some people also need to pass emissions testing which can not easily be done with the more aggressive ports. I'm not against other people doing it to their own cars but I will never do it to one of mine. It will also still be quite fun as porting doesn't make a car fun. The car already is. Once I lost the desire to compete in the horsepower wars, I started to actually enjoy the car for the first time.

well,as far as seting up ports i dont quite have that knowhow(yet)...thing is, im not really interested in racing the thing or competeing, i just want to have fun with the thing increasing performace driving skills...
i read a little about porting, dont remember where i read it but some one said somthin about sacrificing a little tourque and hp on the lower end rpms for an increase in rwhp on the higher end. this isnt true? looks like i need to search around some more...i would enjoy good tourque and hp on both ends
as far as what i wana do with the car, i want to be able to control it at high speeds and controled slides...so basicaly i dont need to do a bunch of crazy stuff to it...i just want maybe a 50 to 100 hp increase...the s4 n/a came with around 150 hp and 150 torque(almost) so i thought maybe i can make it like say around 250 hp and tourque(max) i think that should be plenty for what i want to do...you guys think its possible without porting...prolly not?
i think im gona focus alot of attention on suspension and frame/body reenforcments, low profile cage im starting to design...i want it to look slick, streetable but supreme handling and good power.
oh yeah, in oregon if the car's over 20 yrs, no emissions...its nice.
mine is a daily driver and will be for a while im sure. right now in fact i dont have a house...i live outa my fc...i take good care of it and it me...im lovin it

I guess you would fall into my category of "no balls". :lol::lol: Totally kidding...
I hear you, but different people have different tolerances for noises and driveability and what is considered a street car or not. The race car that is in my sig, I used to drive it all the time on the street and I liked it alot. It has a 12abp and I had seats and most of the interior before I turned it into a full drag race car to compete. I had a solid hub 4 puck clutch with stock TII trans and it didnt' bother me a bit. But some people would have a hissy fit if they drove my car. Like I said it all depends on if your a man or not. LOL People would actually flag me down and make me pull over to check it out and give me thumbs up all day long. Not too many people see old school rotaries around my parts. Another reason to buy an old school is that you don't have to worry about emissions, at least in California which has some of the stictist emission laws out there. If I were to build another street N/A car I would go semipport. Get the best of both worlds.

No way in hell you can make 250hp on stock ports N/A. It sounds to me that you would be better off with just a header and exhaust system and a good intake system and fix the suspension up like you mentioned. The only way to make the power levels that you're talking about is by porting.

yeah but how big of a port?...and is what i heard bout losin some low end stuff true...i said i would search but im using a very primitive computer here with dial up at the moment so its truly difficult to switch throu pages.

When I was 19, I would have tolerated a stripped down car with a p-port on the street. That was when gas was a dollar a gallon. That doesn't mean the car was streetable. It means I was tolerant. You could theoretically drive a Cessna down the street too as it rolls! Now that I'm an adult with a career and a 100 mile daily commute, there is no way in hell I'll do that again! I'm not that tolerant of non streetable equipment!

Sounds like you are speaking of flywheel hp, as the stock fc has around 145ft-lbs flywheel. But while 250hp is very achievable, 250 torque is not. The most efficient 13b in the world will be right at 200ft-lbs flywheel, or 170 rwtq. That is more than enough to make 300rwhp. But it takes WAAAAAAY more to pull those numbers than just porting. Or huge porting. Which is why n/a is so much damn fun! :)

See all that salt on the roads? Car won't be allowed out until March or April.

The engine's assembled, and physically under the hood, at least. Not actually bolted to anything other than the transmission.

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Low end will increase if you port intelligently and make good decisions with the rest of the package.

Even so, even a street port will make more low end power, even though the powerband feels a lot more pointy than stock.

see the answers that im getting to my questions r great, thats part of the reason why i was hoping to see more threads under the n/a performance section so that i can just read instead of askin questions and potentially sounding...dumb?
that been said i gotta nother dumb q...
so if i focus on clutch, tranny, and diff...what do you mean thats more than enough to make 300rwhp....?, if i upgrade those components to handle 200ft-lbs, then whats left...intake, exuast, porting? and still, if i go big port, then i would loose low end power, unless i make up for that with reaching that 200ft-lbs? sorry im just tryin to understand this correctly....new to rotary's, new to upgrading, and new to tuning... not so new to wrenching, so im sure it wont take me too long to understand...
maybe you could elaberate what you mean when you say..'port intelligently and make good decisions with the rest of the package'?
i'd definately like to hear more ideas about getting the most out of our n/a's(without sacrificing anything)...thanks guys!

In my opinion its more about expectations when it comes to engine setup. Before you touch a single thing you have to identify the purpose, then build up to that.

For example: If you know that the car will be street driven then you know it will have to maintain its low end power. It will need a medium weight flywheel (don't go too light). Use a transmission that you can easily downshift for street use and figure out where you want your powerband to be.

Up high and you will need a good, free flowing exhaust and intake and exhaust header lengths must agree with one another. That is a direct reflection of what type of port you want to use. Higher in the rev range means more overlap to match the breathing needs of the engine. Down low a good streetport with an earlier IO and a little later IC with and earlier EO will make for a very fun car.

Just remember that free flowing exhaust is going to drone you out with bridge or p-port unless you build the entire exhaust out of 12ga tubing and that will be heavy. Everything is doable when done with a goal in mind. The definition of realistic and driveable lie with the driver.

k man im sorry but, you lost me at IO, IC, and EO?
as far as the flywheel goes, i was thinkin bout usin a good aftermarket medium wieght, dont need an extreme light wieght competition thing...with the tranny i was thinkin simple...like tii simple. could be wrong, but i thought i read somwhere that it was pretty much a direct swap in with the n/a?(was also thinkn bout a short gear shift system...)
you think the tii tranny would hold up against 170tq? 200flywheel?

and exhuast...i was thinkn 2.25 all the way back with a presilencer...idk too much...the goal in mind is to give enough flow but still a quiet ride...thing is with the n/a s4 the aux ports open from backpressure from the cat...i would like to rid of the cat cause in OR emissions dont matter 20yrs or older, but on the other hand i need the backpressure...you think a presilencer would balance out for enough flow, silence, and back pressure for the port actuators?
i read some things about actuating the ports throu various means and none of them really appeal to me as they open under certain load depending on if you WOT or just cruising would change the speed at which they open and how far they open...i dont want them to be open all the time and dont want them to snap open all the way when the engine doesnt call for it, basically i want them to function as close to OEM specs as possible for best performance...at least from what i read thats my thoughts on it.
still learnin sorry guys...thanks

IO-Intake open
IC- Intake close
EO- Exhaust open

so lemme see if i understand correctlly, to achieve "a good street port" it depends not only on the size of the port but the positioning too right, or is there a standard area to which all ports are cut? im thinkin that by the way you said 'earlier IO and a little later IC with an earlier EO' actually denotes where you make your cuts...right?
see im thinkin that when i do this rebuild i can also pick up a couple templates for a port...not sure what kind of port to go with yet, thats mostly the reason im asking so i can get some ideas....still tryin to understand porting and figure which kind of port would be the best for my application...thanks guys im always down to hear more ideas...

im going to have a full PPort done by Rob at Pineapple and im going to street drive the snot out of it... but until then ive got an s5 na 6 port that im probably going to rebuild withjust the stock front and back irons (and robs 6 port inserts), and find a good center iron with a port bigger then the stock s5 center irons port, and put a carb on that with a set of 4.44 gears, and street drive the snot out of that. but thats because i could tolerate a pp with 6.0 ring and pinion and the racing beat megaphone... its just a matter of what everyone else around me complains about.

im thinkin bout rebuiling with all new rotors, housings, and irons...my motor is 24 yrs old w 150k orig...im pretty sure theyre probably all dust by now...cheapest i found rotors for is ~$600ea., housings ~$700ea., and irons idk yet but while the rotors and housings brand new cost ~$2600, and the seals and o-ring kits are ~$1200...in addition ~$5 or $600 more for misc. thats already ~3300-3400...its starting to look expensive...but on the other hand i dont really trust the low priced housings and stuff i find on ebay as the pics dont really give the product justice...cant tell what id be getting....plus if im gona take the time to rebuild the motor, im not gona wana have to take it all apart for a while afterwards so i figured goin brand new and breakin in gently would be the most efficient route...i dont wana half-ass it.
im confident that i can rebuild myself if all the tools and materials were in front of me combined with the FSM and a video or two, however im thinking it might just be cheaper to buy a motor from a respectable company that would use all new stuff...
anyone know of a person and/or company that would sell new rotors, housings, irons for a better price than i found, so that i can rebuild myself? would love to get that exp.
or does someone know where i can buy a (trust-worthy) complete motor (new parts)for a decent price?

oh yeah one more stupid q...p-port? parallel port? bigger than a bridge port?

p-port means peripheral port, its totally different compared to a bridge port as the port is not on the irons its on the housing, a hole must be machined on he housing and the irons are filled in

Not too get jack the thread but kind of EMS do you guys recommend?

I was thinking about looking to something for my S4 na. With a proper tune would there be a noticeable increase in power?