I have ported a junk iron for the sake of learning. I am using the Pineapple racing streetport template. I feel like I'm half way done. I'm going to take a break so I can get some input. The 6th port opening on the template is about 1mm bigger than stock.

I already see were I need to "smooth" some spots out and bevel the edges.

*What else do I need to do?

 

Here is a comparison from stock(right) to my port work(left; its not done).

I smoothed the port and beveled it a bit so when I slide a side seal over, it wouldn't catch the side.

*What type of bit do I use to make the bowl smoother?

P.S. The iron on the right is 1 inch behind the ported iron, its that big.

 

all in all, i think you're on the right track. as you said, you still have some work to do, but i think it's more than just smoothing. i think i still see one of the scribe lines from the template on the upper part of the opening side of the secondary. the unevenness also hints that you may be having control issues. just out of curiosity, what tools did you use?

as for the bowl, i don't think i port so much as i texture. i use a small round sanding stone and sanding drums.

i do want to encourage you though. practice goes a long way to becoming proficient. a working knowledge of the port helps tremendously as well.

 

I figured I'd use a dremel for this port. My control issue, is probably that I grind a little bit, check, repeat. I used a screwdriver wrapped with 180 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper to smooth the edges, but I may have worked harder in some spots than others. Thanks for the help. I'll update it when I get this port better.

 

well, it can be done with a Dremel. i can attest to that. the first few engines that i actually ported correctly were done with one. however, once i learned how to control the die grinder, i found that it's a bit quicker to do the rough work and then i detail and finish with the Dremel.

from my experiences when i first started out, my advice would be to try to find a good way to steady the housing AND your hand. i used to work on the floor in my garage and a lot of my control issues came from the tendency of the bloody thing moving around too much, wanting to jump all over the place. i used to have to use one hand to secure the housing, which only left one hand to work the Dremel. when it wasn't the Dremel moving around, it was my back or legs tiring, forcing me to move at inopportune times. eventually built a workbench, and at times i'll clamp the housing to it - especially when i'm doing my exhausts - but it gave me the chance to use both hands on the grinding tool. all of a sudden, voila, all my lines and edges were straight. the thing wasn't jumping out the bowl and onto the sealing surface. everything was better! oh and another thing, it also wouldn't hurt to put some duct tape around the aperture, just in case it does jump out the bowl.

if i think of anything else that may help, i'll post it. until then, good luck with it.

 

Yep, diabolical1's technique works really well. Also, I was using a jagged tungsten carbide bit(for cutting tile I think), so I switched to a more spiral tungsten carbide cutting bit. I was shaving off material, rather than smashing. Two hands really worked out because with my right, I'd control placement of the dremel;my left was pressure.

*how is it so far?



Another comparison

 

Ha, in the first pic you can see why its a junk iron. Its like those"when you see it you'll...".

 

looks better already.

i think now we need to get you better bits. if the tungsten-carbide bits are what i'm thinking they are, then they were God-awful. i'll try to look up the website where i bought my bits from and link it, but be warned, i might not be able to find it simply because i'm 1100 miles from home with no return in sight. i'm not very well-versed in the language for all these bits, but i can show you photos or refer to photos on RB's site. perhaps someone else may even chime in.

at any rate, it looks like you're on the right path, bro. keep at it.

 

I found the bits I need to look for, I don't know the name but I'll find them. Thanks though.

This is what I got, but I'm gonna get the good stuff later, when I step up to the plate.

Thanks a bunch for your technique diabolical1.

 

Practice makes perfect, here is a old thread i made for people just like yourself.

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...96&postcount=1

 

Get a pencil grinder and the 1/8 carbide bit set. That set up is awesome for porting. A 1/4" die grinder and carbide bits work great to get the most work done. While the 1/8" pencil grinder can do awesome finish work. Oh and I found a needle file set works good to even out edges really well. If you have a harbour freight or similar tool store you could pick all that up for around 100$ or less. Hope that helps. Good luck

 

I already read that, you did a great job at explaining the process.

I'm going to the city when I get some time off to pick up a bunch of bits and tools. Thanks for all the help! I don't know if I need to do anymore to this practice piece other than make it look good.

I have an intermediate plate that I'm going to port for practice as well, so I'll post that up when I get my supplies and start on it.

 

For final cleanup, something like this works wonders.

 

That is what I have been looking for, the stores here are out of those or have the wrong grit. Thanks MadScience 7!

 

i took a 1/8 shank and cut a slit in the top and can slide in any grit paper i want to use

my .02

 

*Do I extend the bowl, or remove the material above it?

(100+ and humid in work space made picture bad)...

 

thanks for the link! I need some new bits and the local hardware places have a pretty poor selection

 

Finally found my answer for the center iron question. I'm gonna have some fun with my new bits!

While looking for that answer, I came across some things that should or should not be considered while I'm porting parts. It is described that I will only make as much power, as the intake manifold will allow me, unless I port the intake runners. I will be using a S4 intake.

*What is thought of this?

 

This is getting easier!


I'm going to clean them up when I'm done. Last will be the housings, when I get the sleeve out.

 

Oh yeah, intake throttle body porting isn't necessary for my needs.

 

Looking alot better. I would open up the runners and the bowl a little, this is were alot of power can be made from. Also, open up the runners in the intake manifold to match.

 

I would, but I don't want to mess up my manifold, I only got one.

 

Here

 

And just for ***** and giggles here is a "6 PORT BASTARD PORT"

 

your on the right track but yes practice makes perfect. Porting is like a piece of art some can do it and some cant. Lots of patients and good concentration plays a good role in porting also. I have seen some horrible ports in my life and some are really humorous but they still can work but not going to make tuning, drive-ability and power easy to make. here is my porting that i recently did. I use a head porting kit from the Mack dealer and single and double cut grinding bits.