t-von

iTrader: (8)

Pantera was correct in the fact we need an ignition section on the forum. I wired my coils based off the Claudio's diagrams from the tips and setup page in the Haltech section for the Ls1 coils I originally were using. Guess I'll split the coils into two 20amp banks.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

A local tuner once told me that he blew a 15A (or was it a 20A?) fuse on a 13B setup. Don't have any details on the dwell settings, but it was semi pp 13B, 4 aem coils on direct fire, pro efi ecu, 800rwhp monster!

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

You'd need to know the dwell setting to draw any conclusions.

I've had a few guys pop 15A fuses while cranking. Once the engine is running, total amp draw is down to 10-12 amps. The solution has always been to move to a 20 or 30 amp fuse. My best guess, and it's only that, is that, if the coil is capable of drawing a fixed wattage and the battery voltage falls substantially while cranking, the amp draw will go up as a result. Lance would be a good one to explain whether my guess is right or wrong and why some see a substantially higher amp draw at cranking than under running conditions at a fixed dwell.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

After reading through this tread again, I have noticed my 20b seems to have a loss of power ever since I installed these IGN coils. This is all based on my butt dyno. If what you hypothesize about too much duration in high rpm's is true, then that may be my problem. I'm gonna reinstall my Ls1 coils to see if there's in fact a difference.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

D581 LS2 Truck Coils on 20b here.

Cheap, off brand, generic auto-zone coils. $30, easy to wire up, easy to mount.

740rwhp @ 22psi, not even a hint of breakup, 10.0 AFR and 1000cc water methanol

Running at only 4ms dwell. Not knowledgeable of all the market options but highly recommend these on any rotary.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i think you can do the proof in a very simple way. run a data log of rpm, or speed, and just see how long it takes to go from ~3000-7000rpm in whatever gear. more power = shorter time.

Wildman923

iTrader: (1)

since last I posted (Feb 2014) I have been using the D585's (ls2/Yukon) with no ill effects. Running 9's with a 58mm at 14 psi. The only trouble I had was when I went into limp home mode and fouled the plugs running 9:1 afr's. Takes me about 4 secs to go from 40 mph to 90 mph with another 200lb person in my lightweight Miata.

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

interesting results with the D585's.. at a loss as to why i was having problems with them

I have switched over from FC coils to running the sakebomb IGN-1A kit, just to save some space in the engine bay. wire resistance is about 150ohm, and with resistor R6712 plugs in 9's and 10's with no problems. 10psi boost on 9.4CR rotors

DeaconBlue

iTrader: (31)

Sakebomb has a plug and ply kit for the FD.

http://www.sakebombgarage.com/fd3s-aem-coil-upgrade/

How did you wire up the coils on your FC?

Hellasmen

Hi all,

its been 4 years approximately from the last update here. Is anything changed these years?
Do you have any update for us or further info?
And if I can ask as an outcome what is the best coil to use on RX8 in terms for the best long life of the engine not for other reasons. Thank you on advance for y time
Regards
Chris

t-von

iTrader: (8)

I've come to find out that the Rx8 coils work just fine on an Rx8 provided you change your plugs at the recommended interval or sooner. The problem of ignition coils burning out in general is with people leaving the plugs in too long. As the plug electrode gap gets wider, it makes the coils work harder to jump the spark. That puts unnecessary stress on the coils. No need to put anything else in an Rx8.

peejay

Have been finding that across MANY platforms for a long time, not just in RX-8s.... the myth of 100k mile spark plugs is killing a lot of ignition coils because the hiigher voltage to jump a worn gap will break down the internal windings faster. RX-8s are just more sensitive to it than most.

(What is funny is my Volvo ate a coil last night on the way home from a banzai parts run. The old spark plugs were in the engine for 120k miles. Drove 120 miles towing a trailer in a snowstorm while dragging a dead cylinder. The cobbler has no shoes!)

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i'll third that. additionally the Rx8 coils have a boot/thing that adapts the coil to the plug wire, and i think the connection there can be bad too.

that being said there is some BMW coil we sell the daylights out of (its like 10x more than the next best seller), so its not just the Rx8

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

i am still running the same ign1a coils with no issues. i did switch to r7420 plugs in 9s and 11s.

i suspect when i was running the d585's i may have not had them grounded properly to the engine. I think my ground may have been through my engine harness, but honestly do no remember. regardless, the ign1a's have way more energy and the way to go for turbo rotary

another interesting thing i have learned is too much duration is bad also, especially if combined with too much timing retard. if you take a rotor and spin it in a spare housing/iron, you will see there is only about 100 degrees from the time the intake port is uncovered to the time the trailing spark plug hole meets the apex seal. at redline you only have about 8ms between spark events. 100 degrees ends up being only about 2ms at redline. ign1a spec sheet shows 2.9ms duration, not sure if that is open air or what, but if you light that trailing plug at TDC, it can ignite the next chamber way too early. I think this is why you see people popping engines with super conservative timing. take a look at factory timing maps, they never fire the trailing past TDC above 4k rpm, even the powerFC maps. you have to make sure the trailing plug never fires past TDC or so, especially with big long duration coils. this may have been party why FD coils are smaller than FC, and RX-8 coils even smaller