Today I am looking at an 83 Rx7 12A for my younger brother. The owners says it will not start without ether and then runs fine. He picked up a new accelerator pump, used carbs from another 12A and it still won't start. Other than the carb, what could be wrong? I thought fuel pump but if that was the problem, why would it run once it got "etherized?" In my limited experience, this is usually a carb problem. The ones he bought were not new. Sounds like a great car other than this issue.

 

could be a bunch of different things. if the accelerator pump works, then step 1 is to set the idle mixture, and if that doesn't help, its not the carb. could be a battery/starter/cables, could be cap+rotor/plugs/wires. could be the engine

 

could be they don't know how a manual choke works, too.

 

It could also be that the car has minimal compression. I had a 170,000 km motor that I used to race. I had to tickle it to life using ether or turning the fuel on and off, but once I got it to start in the morning, it would run fine all day as the heat caused just enough compression build that the car would start okay. It would really try to flood though, so I wired up a toggle switch to the fuel pump and get it cranking first, then flick the pump on.

eric

 

For some reason, I couldn't find this post. The owner wants $900. Here is what he did and had,

tried a junkyard accelerator pump from an Rx7, still wouldn't run right.
The car would start only with ether but then wouldn't run until I explained about the choke. It ran then but only if he kept his foot on the gas otherwise, it stalled out.

Someone had either removed the top trim piece for the windshield or crammed a lot of silicone under it to stop the windshield from leaking. I found "bubble" rust under the paint around the silicone.

Sun roof leaked. The latch was broken so a previous owner had drilled holes up through the sun roof at the latch point, inserted bolts, and used nuts on the outside to secure the sun roof. Rust bubbling up around the sun roof,

dash was in bad shape. The plastic parts/vents between the dash pad and bottom of the windshield were missing or torn out

minor dent on left rear fender but a lot of bubbling up rust

lots of rust on engine mounts and frame

lots of rust under the car including gas tank

GSL wheels but they were all badly rusted. 3 are no good at all.

OIL LEAK from front of the 12A motor

rear hatch latch missing but owner said he had all of it. For some reason, he had torn out all the trim, carpet, etc. in the back covering the tail light area.

Owner insistent that I take the car "now" even though I explained I was acting as an agent for my brother who lives back east.

I told my brother to pass. This was a project car with too many variables. Maybe $500 for the car?

 

i don't think i would buy it. seems like cold starting is the least of its troubles

 

I may have mentioned this before but, between February and November 2014, I put my 68 Barracuda up on jack stands, dropped the entire front end assembly, removed front fenders, nose cone, bumper, and everything under the car including rear suspension, gas tank, etc. The only thing under the car was me and some spiders. I sanded down the entire underside of the car and engine bay to bare metal. I killed two dremels, one drill, and other equipment plus one elbow in the process....and there was VERY LITTLE rust. So, when I looked at this car, I saw visions of total disassembly and repeat of the above all over again but this time with large amounts of rust and potential damage requiring the kind of repairs I can't make (sure wish I knew how to weld). The guy was very insistent that I buy the car on the spot. I almost had to run to get away.

 

If you don't mind, where was the car located? I'm not looking to jump over you. Just curious. There was one here for sale a while back.

 

Jump over. no, I don't look at it that way at all. You folks have done everything you can to help me find an Rx7 and I would gladly return the favor. He is in Independence Missouri, 49th Terrace of highway 40. I am trying to find his number now. I may have to call my brother to get it. Owners name is Dave and he was in a big hurry to sell the car.

His name is Dave and his phone number is 712-253-9214


P.S. If you are local and need or want someone to go with you. I might be able to do that or not. It is up to you. Let me know what you find out.

 

Got my wires crossed talking with my brother. That is NOT the phone number for Dave in Independence with the $900 Mazda.
The correct number is:

816-405-7085

 

and the Cuda is an easy car! i can't help but notice on these "buy junk car, fix in a week*, take to auction" shows that the american cars kind of just have the outer layer of sheetmetal, while the Mazda has an inner layer, and an outer layer.

i think that is why people are so willing to fix muscle cars when they are rusty, as its easy.

*its TV, it may not literally be a week, just presented as such

 

The Cuda was almost rust free. What took so long is, I didn't know what I was doing and learned along the way. I made all the rookie mistakes too. I killed an elbow and some dremels who know what else because I'm a perfectionists. I don't stop or move on to an a new area until I have finished my search and destroy mission to find, kill, and seal against rust. I have a friend restoring a 69 Road Runner. Every once in a while I threaten to help him sand down and prep the engine bay (took me over a month) and he knows it will take years if I do it. Yes, the Mazda is much more complicated. Got my Haynes 86' edition book in the mail and the engine and stuff alone scare me. But here goes. I hate rust.

 

Do you know any history? Where's the car from? Do you think you could get a VIN?

 

Uni-body is different but there where old uni-body cars like the B body Chrysler's, Ford Falcons that have double siding or boxing. I think you're right though, there are places of a double layer in the RX7 you don't find on those cars.

 

wheel wells in those A bodies are a mish mash of pieces welded together and over each other. They were a nightmare to de-undercoat and sand down. Rear fenders feature a "trunk extension" that meets the quarter panel, is welded at the bottom, and features what I call a bath tub drain plug near the bottom of the inner fender. Guess why it rusts so bad? Mine was okay and I POR 15'd it but good. I have another A body, B body and C body to go. The Rx7 is first.

 

I am having the same issue with my 87 Base, I cant get it to start with out a shot of ether, once it starts it runs fine, difference is mine is EFI. Any ideas? TIA