I've got a NA S5 and I was wondering if anyone else had the airpump and ACv and all that BS removed like me but was using a small airpump (The type that comes in an air horn kit) to actuate the VDI and 6PI diaphrams. Mine is hooked up pretty much like stock as far as the vacuum hoses are concerned. Except the hose that would be coming out of the side of the ACV that feeds pressurized air from the old air pump is now coming from the new air pump. The air pump is actuated by the factory ECU. Since the pump puts out about 10psi in under a second its turned on at the same time as the VDI or 6PI solenoid is activated. Piggybacked off the wiring with a seperate relay for both. So it can turn on to supply air to one or the other or both depending on the ecus decision. Most of the time its on from about 4000rpms to redline under 1/2 to WOT. Anyways I was just wondering if anyone ever did that besides me. I mean the part about it functioning of the stock ECU correctly. Mines been like this for 5-6 months. The only problem I had was a blown fuse once. 20A was not high enough it has to be at least a 25amp fuse

 

My buddy is actually working on something like this right now. He is trying to finish it today. I need to make him come read this thread.

 

I was thinking about posting pics but maybe nobody really cares about it. I think a lot of people have the 6 ports open all the time. I like how I did it because I didn't have to use a rpm switch thing from msd or whoever

 

there are a few people who do it that way. some people use the air pumps found in ford lumbar supports. search the 2nd gen forum. I'd like to see some pix of yours though.

 

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...elec6port.html

 

Thats interesting but the way I did it is so much simpler and not near as hideous.
That guy is also using a rpm switch wihich my method does not use. The only additions in the engine bay are the small pump and two relays and the relays could be in the car I just put them there cause I had lots of room. I'll go get pics and post them for you guys. and if your're really lucky I'll put a wiring diagram up to that I will make in bad *** misrosoft paint! yeah!

I'll repost in a bit.............

 

Ok Here goes let me see if I can explain this all in one shot.

First is this pic of the power wire from the fuse box with the inline relay and it looks like asscrack I know. It's just chillin there I need to loom it up or something just haven't bothered yet. Its hooked to the bolt behind the little door thing on the underhood fuse box. Look close and you can see it going up into it.




Heres how I ran the wire just there behind the brake booster pipe and stuff. Once again this should be loomed up to prevent problems




Then it goes to the relays. Just before it splits into two wires one for each but its the same point electrically. To pin #30 on each one.




Next it goes out of pin #87 and recombines into one wire and hooks up to the positive terminal on the air pump. The wires on this air pump are at the very bottom and I couldn't get a good pic of it but trust me they are there. And to complete that circuit we need a ground which is hooked to the bottom of the pump also and grounds on the chassis. Anywhere you like just scratch the paint off under the terminal so it makes a good connection.




We'll quickly follow the vacuum hose routing before explaining the rest of the wiring. Comes out of the pump here at the top and I've got a clamp on it as you can see.




Drops down crosses over to the engine. Hose changes to a smaller hose just because the hose fitting on the pump is smaller than the hose fitting on the smog rack. It's the white thing in the hose. You can also see where the correct place on the rack is in this pic




Here you can see the hose coming off the smog rack up and curling over to attach to the top of the solenoid it does that for the 6PI and the VDI. You can't tell in the pic but the two hoses come off the same pipe down there and both attach to the top of the solenoid. This is the stock configuration by the way. There's not a pic of it but then coming out of the side of the solenoid each hose goes to its respective diaphram. VDI hose goes to the VDI diaphphram whether it goes through the stock smog rack piping or not doesn't matter and the same for the 6PI diaphrams but there's two so if your not useing the stock piping then you'll need a tee fitting




Now back to the wiring. As you can see in the wiring diagram the wiring for the relays that comes form the ECU and gose to the stock solenoids could be done in many places in the car. You could splice into the wires at the ECU or you could splice into them near the firewall grommet like I did or you could splice into them at the actuall solenoids if you wanted. Heres a close up of the wires and their colors.




You might have noticed in my one pic that there is two blue wires and two yellow wires going to the relays. Thats just because I cut the stock wire in half stripped both ends and crimped them into the same terminal. Its the exact same electrically as just splicing into a wire and running that single wire to the same point.

Here's the diagram:




In the above diagram B/W means Black with a White stripe, L/W means Blue with a white stripe, and Y/B means Yellow with a Black stripe. L=Blue. I didn't make that up its how it is in the wiring world.

So Basically what is happening is that the ECU gets to whatever RPM and decides that the coolant is warm enough and the throttle is open enough and its going to turn on the VDI or the 6PI or both at the same time depending on whats happening. So we have power or a positive sitting at one side of each solenoid and and one side of each relay (Switching side of the relay) That power is not from the ECu its from the main relay located by the trailing coil in the engine bay. Remember we just spliced into the wire at the ECU or where it continued past the ECu to go to all the solenoids and what not in the engine bay. So all that being said we get to the right RPM and throttle and all that and the ECU grounds the Blue wire with the white stripe. When that happends the 6PI solenoid opens and the relay switches and the pump is instantly on and deliverying pressureized air to the 6PI diaphrams. Remember everything here is stock except the air pump, two relays and a bit of wire. Same thing happens on the yellow with a black stripe wire for the VDI. The reason for two relays is so the ECU can independently control the VDI or 6PI like stock. It's not beneficial to turn them on at the same time or lower the rpm they turn on by much just to let you know. You can look in your factory manual for the rpms they turn on at at the engine loads and all that and where they do and don't overlap.

The air pump is one from a set of air horns for any car. one of those kits costs like $20 on ebay. The pump is actually more powerful than you need and it wouldn't be a bad I dea to have a regulator on it but my car has been like this for over 6 months and had no problems. Good Luck!

If you have questions just ask.

 

The moderators may want to archive this air pump setup as it is easy to do and fairly cheap. There's no CEL on from this procedure and the car could be completely stock minus the air pump and ACV. A quick note is to leave the two solenoids that are screwed into the ACV hoked up to the harness and ziptie them out of the way so as not to get a CEL (Check engine light) Be careful though the solenoids get hot whenever power is applied to the car so make sure the metal parts of the solenoids aren't touching anything that melts like wiring.

 

Sorry to burst your bubble but this is nothing new or hard to find info on, Not really archive material.
sorry for being an ***.

 

A diagram that good is not archived anywhere. It's worthy.

 

I like! but with my current setup I have to use an RPM switch.

bump for diagram action.

 

I don't think you're an *** just look again at it I guess you didn't notice the lack of a rpm switch which is how everyone is doing it. I've just used everything stock and added three parts. to the car but eliminated three to four parts from the car at the same time. Not to mention evryone has both the VDI and 6PI turning on at the same rpm which is not how the engine works. It pretty much feels the same as stock accept more powerful with the lack of the stock airpump robbing power off the eshaft. And the sound of the compressor kicking on. It's a bit loud but not too terrible. You can also put a piece of tape over the inlet of the airpump and poke a small hole in it if you want the pump to be a bit quitier.

You don't have to use it if you don't want it or like it just trying to give something better to the community than what is already out there.

 

If you really wanted to get crazy you could go ahead and add rpm switches in rather than using the ecu. There is a nice one from MSD that is digital that can be adjusted anywhere from 200 to 15000 rpms. You can also program them to close at different rpms than they open if you wanted to. Why you'd need it I don't know but you could. The downside is that they cost about $175 each and you'd need 2.

 

:P I blame vista. The image was not loading. so I take back what i said.
I used the summit ones they are about 40$ did a good job.

 

Take everything off and jsut get rid of the VDI and all that crap. Its what I did to my car. not only does it make the car easier to work on, it also means theres less things to break. Also youll get a little more power in the top end (might lose some down low or mid...but if your trying to go fast and your not in the high RPMS your prob not racing anyways).

Get you some block off plates and solid engine mounts...best 2 mods Ive done to the car. But if you have an S5 you have to leave the oil metering pump hooked up or the car goes into limp mode. I just have mine zip tied off somewhere untill I get my RTEK

 

I half agree with you. getting rid of some stuff to make the car easier to work on and less things to break is correct. But not at the sacrifice of a properly working engine. You would be one of those guys to buy VTEC killer cams probably which remove the VTEC function from a honda engine. (Stays on big profile all the time) The car still drives everyday and there's a big difference in response of the engine with the VDI or 6PI not working correctly. Perhaps your engine was not working correctly in the first place.

 

your wrong, come on every one know its peak power that makes you fast not average power

I used to think simple was best and now i know there is simple then there is your trying too hard simple. removing systems like VDI and 6PI is a step in the wrong direction. just like removing a stand alone to go carb, it may work for some but your still giving up more than your gaining.

 

I don't understand your response.

You seem to be attempting to prove me wrong while proving me right. Your weird

Perhaps english is your second language????

 

no, I was sarcastic. There is good reason i had apologized for being an *** early in the thread, I am one. I happened to be wrong at that time but it happens.