Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

i'm looking to get somewhat of hp here is my plan on what i will be doing

currently s5 street ported engine recent rebuild stock everything

what i want to do:
rb headers to streight pipe and end with single rb muffler
k&n air filter and keep the stock air box system (you guys say its better then cone)
remove a/c (for weight reduction and i don't use it)
remove p/s and add manual steering rack
relocate battery to bins
lighter flywheel (still researching any streetable ones out there?)
4 puck clutch
replace open differential with lsd
bigger breaks rotors and calipers
light weight 16" rims (thinking like american racing wheels like drag cars)

what do you guys think is this a good plan i'm wanting to make this my weekend car. any advice you guys can give me would be great. thanks.
also i'm researching on a power fc or haltech but does this work with n/a or only turbo motors?

lonetlan

In my opinoin on your setup. Lighter flywheel will wear faster than a stock one. Stock brakes will be fine, but you may want to have better than stock brake pads. Your car will be loud with the straight pipe, but I bet its okay. You may be more suited with a RTek or megasquirt system; rather than going to a full standalone ECU. It isn't worth it with a N/A streetcar. I bet you'll make maybe 190-202hp, but who knows until you begin. Have fun!

Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

thats what i'm hoping to get i don't need 300-400hp. and i had a straight pipe rx7 once it was loud but would it make a big difference adding the racing beat muffler and maybe a pre silencer. thanks and i'll look up Rtek.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

sounds good except i think you'll want a presilencer of some sort in there.

i'd also skip the big brakes, the stock 4 piston setup is quite good, just make sure its in excellent shape, stick some aggressive pads in the front and call it good.

the rtek would be a good addition too.

the rest is IMO... i like my street cars to be civilized. its not too hard to do either, you just stay away from really stiff springs, really low ride height, really loud exhaust...

my preference in the clutch area is a light flywheel with a stock disc, and on an NA you can use a stock or pressure plate, or if you like, a mildly stronger one.

i don't like puck clutches, or stiff pressure plates. i've found the stiff PP to not really be needed, and its effort is high enough to bend/break things.

i have not seen a big difference in wear between a stock flywheel and aftermarket, and if you get a good aftermarket like RB, it has a replaceable friction surface.

the RB steel flywheel is nice on the street, i think its what the car should have had stock. the aluminum one is a little light for the street, its a little race car. ive had street cars with the light one, and its not bad, its just the steel one feels like stock but better, vs really light quick revving. depends on the weight of the car too, a lighter car will make a lighter flywheel more streetable.

the puck clutches used on the street DO wear really fast though, and they suck to drive, in a race car, neither is an issue, but on the street they stink

the AGX shocks are good for a car thats still sprung soft enough to be streetable.

peejay

- rb headers to streight pipe and end with single rb muffler

Will be very loud.

- k&n air filter and keep the stock air box system (you guys say its better then cone)

No effective difference. Don't use a K&N, they suck. Use a paper element.

- remove p/s and add manual steering rack

Not really necessary to change to a manual rack.

- relocate battery to bins

Not really worthwhile unless you're shooting for another tenth at an autocross, or need the underhood real estate. It's a pain to deal with sometimes.

- lighter flywheel (still researching any streetable ones out there?)
- 4 puck clutch

You have this backwards. There's basically no difference in drivability between a 9lb flywheel and stock. I have a 9lb and can't tell the difference.

Puck clutches, on the other hand, are not something that I would classify as "streetable". You can drive it on the street, but it's a serious pain to live with. You won't need any more than a stock clutch anyway.

- replace open differential with lsd

This is personal preference. I personally prefer the way an open diff drives on the street. You can accelerate and turn at the same time, without barking the tires!

- bigger breaks rotors and calipers

Purely cosmetic. Figure that RX-7 calipers get snapped up by rally guys as upgrades...

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

understood, so no offense should be taken ...
i think this depends more on material and technique/use.
i concur.
again, i concur. i guess it really comes down to a matter of tolerance (noise, tickets, etc.). however, i've never fully bought into the mentality of trying to maximize power available by exhaust flow. i believe in trying to balance flow and noise the best you can. it's a personal preference, i guess.
i disagree with this. first of all MegaSquirt is a full standalone, not a piggyback. i think if he can afford a standalone, then go with it and don't look back.
simply not true. i think you'd be pleasantly surprised with the gains a standalone will yield by itself, much less with the mods he has (streetport, exhaust, etc.).
time will tell ...

Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

ok so here is what my new list looks like based on what you guys said some stuff is just for looks.

things already done are rebuild with street port, tein lowering springs, gas a just lowering shocks, momo steering wheel, spare tire removed, a/c delete almost done.

remove a/c and accessories

remove p/s will install manual rack just for my preference

"cold air intake" want to make a box surround and somehow force cooler air from outside (i have some ideas you guys will laugh at me lol)

racing beat headers - pre silencer - racing beat cat - straight pipe (no y pipe) - racing beat single muffler (not going for dual, preference again)

Rtek (stage 1)

new engine mounts from mazdatrix (mine are worn out)

front and rear strut bar from corksport

dual alternator pulley

new pulley kit (want them red)

hydraulic strut for the hood (the way clokker did it)

corksport fan shroud

corksport radiator cover

corksport radiator

short shifter

redline fluids in tranny and differential

upgrade break pads only

16" light weight rims (n/a cant really spin more than that lol)

thanks guys although it is my car and my choices i like help here and there i think this is a pretty good setup of mixture street/track car

lonetlan

Are you getting stock replacement engine mounts or Mazdaspeed mounts?

From what it says on their site, Rtek stage 1 just lets you bypass the MOP, so you can premix. Maybe, a good mod could be switching the front cover to the S4 cover, and use the Mechanical Oil Metering Pump on that if your worried about limp mode.

I think the pulley kit may be just for show, if the size of them are relatively the same as OEM.

Your "cold air intake" probably won't be as stupid as you think. I think the best is getting the intake as far to the front as possible, completely surround it with a box, and do some ducting to get a sufficient amount of cold air. That's what I've seen people do that know how to get cold air, and not just have a filter that gets hotter than a stock intake.

If your referring to drifting about spinning wheels and tires, 16s are good, but 15s are better; a N/A can spin even 17s, but 18s is where you'll be pushing it. keep the tire pressure high, and your good to go.

Good luck!

Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

my first idea is a little more complicated but i think it would look nice and clean.

make a custom 10" by 10" box made to fit where the stock intercooler normally goes on the t2. replacing the air filter with a different model to fit perfectly in the custom box. reshaping the intake to make a U bend. that way air comes directly from outside using the t2 hood scoop. the dept of the box will depend on the space allowed between the hood and engine.

my other idea is running intake pipe placed right behind the s5 fog light hole and end in a custom enclosed box to shield from engine heat. i think this will be more simple but i will find out ones i take of the bumper and stuff.

Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

pictures provided by clokker





this is how i will do my cold air intake its just the way i wanted =)

clokker's car is now my goal lol

lonetlan

Maybe SCCAITS's setup, its a track car.

Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

hey can someone help me with a link to removing power steering and installing a manual rack. i found the thread called "How to: de-power your steering rack the right way" but that don't help since i'm switching to manual rack. thanks.

and i have an extension to the intake so i can copy clokker's ambient intake i found one that i will custom fit the air pump hose instead of using a tiny air filter.

pictures cause thats better then words.


intake

lonetlan

Take some time to look under your car, its pretty straight forward, but messy.

Oh, and don't forget about the chip under the dash. You'll have a constant buzzer if you don't disconnect it.

Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

thanks I usually like to have a what not to do. But I'm pretty sure I wil manage removal. Any advice you guys can give me would help. Thanks.

canyontougeFC3S

iTrader: (4)

i feel inspired!!!:icon_tup :