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12a bridgeport compares to?

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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 10:17 AM
  #1  
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12a bridgeport compares to?

Ok I'm not exactly sure this should go here so please feel free to move it if theres a better section for this

but I'm running this setup on my 84 gsl
12a Full Bridgeport with notched housings
FD c-ring
Racing beat intake manifold and headers
holley 600
holley red fuel pump
holley fuel regulator
an efan
A/C delete kit
direct fire ignition
Stage 3 6 puck clutch
LSD rear end
195/60/14 winston winner tires

ok
I've seen several dynos and most of them are around 200 -225 and some of the higher ones 250

What car today could the power and torque compare to my setup? and I mean with my car weighing around 2150?
what could I expect to be able to outrun in the 1/4 mile
or on a closed track from a 30 roll? or 60 roll?

I'm trying to be able to hang with or out run one of my friends cars at the track
theyre all stock cars except the vette: 2004 335i, 05 g35 coupe, or an 86 vette convertible running a EFI 350 with a small cam upgrade?


I don't want to go to the tracks with no knowledge and its gonna be a while before my cars fully ready so what can i expect out of these cars? Or what cars today could mine compare to (350z, sr20det s14, stock t2 fc, 02 mustang gt)
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 03:22 PM
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Stop bench racing. Go to the track and see what it runs.
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 05:22 PM
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No thats what I'm wondering What to expect from the track should I expect to get a whole lot of torque from a standstill or is it really not gonna kick in until the later rpms I'm running off of the stock 84 gear ratios and thats why I'm not sure
I had the setup in an SA and it had a different gear ratio in the rear end so I'm not sure if I should just ease into it or just dump the clutch and go
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 09:29 AM
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The A/C delete and Winston tires will really help your low end torque but without knowing what kind of CD player you have I can't say what it will do for top end power.


(Way too much irrelevant information, no relevant information)
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by peejay
The A/C delete and Winston tires will really help your low end torque but without knowing what kind of CD player you have I can't say what it will do for top end power.

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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 05:12 PM
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Peejay, in checking your sig i think you could ditch the cupholder, the big gulp and the girlfriend to save 250 lbs and get into the 13's........
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 10:02 PM
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hAha funny guys but really I haven't really heard alot about gear ratios I keep hearing the 84 gsl is a good rearend but how will the ratios compare to the 83 rear with LSD I was previously using? I'm not a mechanic and I haven't been in the rotary game for too long so my noob questions are the only thing that's helping me learn if I don't understand them...
I have learned alot of **** but not gear ratio differences yet or if they change how you need to drive/race the car at the track
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 10:04 PM
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And if that's irrelevant info what would be considered relevant?
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 07:37 AM
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A well built 12a bridge could run 110+ mph in the quarter. A poorly built one could run in the 60's. With out any information about power you will only get guesses which are worthless. Also, even if the car is fast, it's still up to the driver to get it down the track. Go to the track to see what it will do.
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 11:42 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by dbssr1212
hAha funny guys but really I haven't really heard alot about gear ratios I keep hearing the 84 gsl is a good rearend but how will the ratios compare to the 83 rear with LSD I was previously using? I'm not a mechanic and I haven't been in the rotary game for too long so my noob questions are the only thing that's helping me learn if I don't understand them...
I have learned alot of **** but not gear ratio differences yet or if they change how you need to drive/race the car at the track
they both have the same gears....
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dbssr1212
And if that's irrelevant info what would be considered relevant?
relevant information would be something quantifiable, like weight, horsepower/torque, or timeslips. your list of Holley carbies and pumps and Winston tires may be nice for a build thread or something, but if you're expecting help to compare/compete with others, it's useless information.

Originally Posted by drewski86
Go to the track to see what it will do.
+1. this is your best course of action ...
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 07:38 PM
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K well I didn't know the gearing was the same but just close this I know it was a noob question and all but it's learning
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 04:16 PM
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run it already!
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 11:56 PM
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tell ya what derrik, i know what i got so how bout we just compare ur's with mine.
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 12:46 AM
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Im just peeking through the 12a rotary heads part of the forum, you all are harsh on the man!
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 08:52 PM
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With the stock gearing and lack of traction, you'll be lucky to get a 15-16 second 1/4 mile. If you get some good gearing and slicks you might be able to get 13's or 14's and then when you do get it to hook up, you will break your rearend. Ask me how I know all of this. If you're serious about drag racing your car, ditch the stock rearend and go ford 9" and make your car as light as possible.

My car ran a 12.07 in the 1/4 with my float bowl running out of fuel on the top end. The video is in my sig if you want to check it out. This is with stock chassis and 8.5"x26" slicks and ford 9". Good luck and get ready to spend alot of money if you want to stick with this game.
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