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Microtech Rx72c probably need your help sir FD wont start

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Microtech Rx72c probably need your help sir FD wont start

Old 09-18-10, 03:19 PM
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Rx72c probably need your help sir FD wont start

Ok, heres my setup...

13B-REW streetport (FD)
850cc/1600cc inj
LT10S w/ X4
GT4094
BUR9EQs for all plugs...
FPR set at 40psi when off...

I have fresh fuel... good spark... good compression (fresh motor)...oil...water...

It really tries to start but I cant get it to continue the cycle to where it powers itself...

I loaded the map you did a while back...
_______________________________
Idle Map
Screen 1

30" ~ 1.38
25" ~ 1.48
20" ~ 1.33
15" ~ 1.71
10" ~ 1.71
05" ~ 1.62
00" ~ 2.00
2-20psi ~ 4.95

Load Map
Screen 3

30" ~ 0.95
25" ~ 1.19
20" ~ 1.33
15" ~ 1.71
10" ~ 2.14
05" ~ 2.57
00" ~ 2.86
2psi ~ 2.2
4psi ~ 3.2
6psi ~ 3.8
8psi ~ 4.4
10psi ~ 4.9
14psi ~ 5.5
16psi ~ 5.9
18psi ~ 6.5
20psi ~ 7

RPMwot Map Screen 17

5000 ~ 05
5500 ~ 08
6000 ~ 08
6500 ~ 10
7000 ~ 11
7500 ~ 11
8000 ~ 11
9000 ~ 12

The rest are zero

RPMcrs Screen 18

1000 ~ -12
1500 ~ -11
2000 ~ -12

THe rest are zero



Pump Map
Screen 19

Pump2Start ~ 2000
Pump1Amt ~ 00
Pump1Pulse ~ 04
Pump1Trig ~ 18
Pump1Stop ~ 00
Pump1Adv ~ 05

Pump2Time ~ 10
Pump2Amt ~ 30
Pump2Trig ~ 16
Pump2Stop ~ 00
Pump2Adv ~ 05

PumpDwell ~ 3.00
PumpTimers ~ No
Pump1Sync ~ No
PumpSpare ~ 00
PumpCold ~ 00

Water Map
Screen 20

-25 ~ 0
-17 ~ 70
-9 ~ 60
-01 ~ 50
05 ~ 45
11 ~ 45
18 ~ 42
24 ~ 34
31 ~ 26
38 ~ 24
46 ~ 19
60 ~ 12
68 ~ 06
82 ~ 0
99 ~ 0
124 ~ 0

Air_t Map
Screen 21

-25 ~ 0
-17 ~ 8
-9 ~ 6
-1 ~ 5
5 ~ 4
11 ~ 3
18 ~ 3
24 ~ 0
31 ~ 0
38 ~ 0
46 ~ 0
60 ~ 0
68 ~ 0
82 ~ 0
99 ~ 0
124 ~ 0

Crank Map
Screen 22

-25 ~ 72
-17 ~ 72
-9 ~ 72
-1 ~ 67
5 ~ 62
11 ~ 57
18 ~ 50
24 ~ 41
31 ~ 31
38 ~ 26
46 ~ 20
60 ~ 15
68 ~ 5
82 ~ 0
99 ~ 0
124 ~ 0

t*rpm
Screen 23

Idle ~ 00
1000 ~ 10
1500 ~ 15
2000 ~ 20
2500 ~ 25
3000 ~ 25
3500 ~ 25
4000 ~ 25
4500 ~ 25
5000 ~ 25
5500 ~ 25
6000 ~ 25
6500 ~ 25
7000 ~ 25
7500 ~ ??
8000 ~ 25
9000 ~ 25

t*map Map
Screen 24

Idle ~ 00
25 ~ 05
20 ~ 04
15 ~ 03
10 ~ 02
05 ~ 00
00 ~ 00
2psi ~ 00
4psi ~ 00
6psi ~ 02
8psi ~ -04
10psi ~ -06
14psi ~ -10
16psi ~ -12
18 psi ~ -16
20 psi ~ -20

t*air Screen 25
Correction value Is expressed as number of degrees you wish to advance or Retard to the Ignition curve and values Is set at zero.

t*gap
Screen 26

0500 ~ 15
1000 ~ 15
1500 ~ 15
2000 ~ 14
2500 ~ 12
3000 ~ 10
3500 ~ 10
4000 ~ 10
4500 ~ 10
5000 ~ 10
5500 ~ 10
6000 ~ 10
6500 ~ 10
7000 ~ 10
8000 ~ 10

t*Inj Map
Screen 27

0500 ~ 120
1000 ~ 150
1500 ~ 150
2000 ~ 150
2500 ~ 150
3000 ~ 150
3500 ~ 150
4000 ~ 150
4500 ~ 180
5000 ~ 210
5500 ~ 210
6000 ~ 240
6500 ~ 240
7000 ~ 270
8000 ~ 270
9000 ~ 270

t*wat Map Screen 28


ANd the rest are zero

Option Map
Screen 30

Af_StE ~ 10
Dwell ~ 3.25 *set at Time Base - not at Duty Cycle*
REVstg ~ 1320
MAPstg ~ 02"
%stg ~ 50
___________________________
It just comes so close, but wont start...

Im forgetting something obvious, I can feel it...

Ted
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Old 09-19-10, 02:06 AM
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try raising your fuel pressure up to 43 and are the plug new
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Old 09-19-10, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mattmarrx3 View Post
try raising your fuel pressure up to 43 and are the plug new
new plugs, yes.

I had it set on 50psi when I first started and lowered it. Ill put it back up and try again.

I have been cycling the motor without plugs every now and then to make sure im not flooding the engine. So thats not the problem. (and the plugs werent wet either)
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Old 09-19-10, 08:19 PM
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that map should start it real well ,is the tps set to 0 with a * by it
are there any errors comming up
might have to advance the timing a bit more on low cranks
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Old 09-19-10, 08:25 PM
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All checks come out ok, I will recalibrate the TPS.
(actually on the data screen it says tps +05%...)
(screen 30 says my TPScal is at 23%)

I will mess with timing to see if it starts in the morning.
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Old 09-19-10, 09:29 PM
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Pour around 200ml down each rotor of oil. It will start.
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Old 09-19-10, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rx72c View Post
Pour around 200ml down each rotor of oil. It will start.
i did put a smaller amount of oil into it and it did seem to help, i will try again tomorrow.

thanks for the help guys.

ted
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Old 09-19-10, 10:44 PM
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It starts an runs for ~30 seconds before dying... Smokes a lot from the oil...
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Old 09-19-10, 11:15 PM
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put exactly 200ml in each rotor by removing the upper intake manifold... The first turn over sounded kinda like binding/hard squeeze for the engine to spin...

I have a slow blinking red light that i didnt see before on the ECU when the cars off, it doesnt run/start anymore.
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Old 09-20-10, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by TEDDER1 View Post
put exactly 200ml in each rotor by removing the upper intake manifold... The first turn over sounded kinda like binding/hard squeeze for the engine to spin...

I have a slow blinking red light that i didnt see before on the ECU when the cars off, it doesnt run/start anymore.
Check the error code.
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Old 09-20-10, 01:26 AM
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How do i do that with the dongle? I cant even remember how to get to the screen with the

"/ok /ok/ ok/ ok/" at the top...
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Old 09-20-10, 01:49 AM
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error will be rpm at a guess not firing on a plug
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Old 09-20-10, 10:44 AM
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Ok, I got it to start, it stayed on for ~45sec- a minute... I did play with timing on the TIMtrm little and thats when it started.
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Old 09-20-10, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by TEDDER1 View Post
Ok, I got it to start, it stayed on for ~45sec- a minute... I did play with timing on the TIMtrm little and thats when it started.
So did you retard or advance the timing to get it started?
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Old 09-21-10, 12:23 AM
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if its biting. he probably retarded to get it to start but the oil is the reason your car started. and if it dosnt start again you need to put some kms on the engine to bed it in because either the quality of the engine build is shitty or its not new parts
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Old 09-21-10, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by rx72c View Post
if its biting. he probably retarded to get it to start but the oil is the reason your car started. and if it dosnt start again you need to put some kms on the engine to bed it in because either the quality of the engine build is shitty or its not new parts
All parts are brand new...

Solid corner seals
Side seals
RA Super Seals
New springs on all of them
new coolant seals
new bearings
etc

I helped build the engine...

I found the idle set screw all the way down.. I was looking at it with a "thats not right" look... Found the throttle actually rotated open to where the set screw was hitting the backside part of the "arm" instead of the top, and someone had calibrated the TPS to correct it. I have had nothing but problems with shops here in Orlando and have started to do it all myself. I keep finding stupid crap as I go...

I will try to start it again tonight after school.

Again thanks for the help.

Ted
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Old 09-22-10, 12:32 PM
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Alright im getting tired... Which adjustment/setting should i adjust the timing with? TIMtrm? and how much?

What is MIXtrm?

I rechecked spark: good.
I rechecked fuel: good.

The red light blinks after I try to start it, but not before.

CAS problem?
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Old 09-23-10, 12:58 PM
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OK! Ive got an RPM error... but that just means ive been trying to crank it too long correct? I just keep resetting it.

I have the CAS indicator on the ECU flashing...
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Old 09-25-10, 06:54 PM
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Timing wont make that much difference unless you have the CAS in wrong.

Put oil in it again. If it starts you just need to drive it around.

If it dosnt start. Start from scratch. Put the cas in properly. and have another turn at starting it.
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Old 09-25-10, 07:32 PM
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Ok, how exactly can the CAS be installed wrong?

Gap from the timing wheel? (whatever its called)
Or alignment in regards to the metal tabs?

I seem to remember a couple years ago when I had someone trying to dyno it, they did say something about a CAS problem...
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Old 09-25-10, 10:49 PM
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You align it with the 2 dots one on the gear,and one on the cas housing.put your pulley on the farther right mark on the pully and drop in the cas aligned.Thats it pretty straight forward hard to mess up.Good luck
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Old 10-06-10, 06:58 PM
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Alright felt like messing with her, she started for roughly 30 seconds and idled bad.

This time however the HOM and REF indicators started to show ERROR, so I will check my CAS again. I have a spare somewhere.
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Old 10-06-10, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by drifting in drifting View Post
You align it with the 2 dots one on the gear,and one on the cas housing.put your pulley on the farther right mark on the pully and drop in the cas aligned.Thats it pretty straight forward hard to mess up.Good luck
My CAS are housed in a metal holder and have no way to adjust them... Theres no elongated screw hole or anything to align. Basically it just bolts in.
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Old 10-06-10, 11:27 PM
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Tedder where in orlando are u?
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Old 10-06-10, 11:39 PM
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the OP has an FD REW engine with a fixed,, true crank CAS

the only adjust the OP has is in the mix trim

the OP must also realise that FD engines lack a true TDC or even -5 ATDC mark

they have a -20 ATDC mark,, for the trailing
the OEM ECU when being timed is using a 15 degree split timing at idle , so when timing is checked ON THE TRAILING T1 LEAD
then t1 = 20 ATDC,, so L1 must be 5 ATDC

to get around this you get out the protractor and remark the pulley for a TDC
else,, you also make all your low down trailing maps a 15 degree split,, and follow the OEM timing technique


to the OP-- is your ID screen telling you this is an FD configured ECU?
as while both timing systems are essentially 12/1 tooth technique
( 24/2 for the FC CAS )
i believe its possible the inbuilt offset in the ECU may well be different and may be insurmountable
( whilst any other brand of ECU will have aced it being user definable )


at any rate,,remark the pulley OR try timing the engine after ensuring the timing maps have a 15 degree split at low rpms
then lock the timing and use the t1 lead to align the timing mark

PS,, trailing is only going to fire once the engine has actually started
( which is why i suggested the remark of the pulley with a TDC or -5 mark to aid in setup with only the engine cranking and the pump disconnected )

Last edited by bumpstart; 10-06-10 at 11:41 PM. Reason: PS
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