Rx72c probably need your help sir FD wont start
Ok, heres my setup...
13B-REW streetport (FD) 850cc/1600cc inj LT10S w/ X4 GT4094 BUR9EQs for all plugs... FPR set at 40psi when off... I have fresh fuel... good spark... good compression (fresh motor)...oil...water... It really tries to start but I cant get it to continue the cycle to where it powers itself... I loaded the map you did a while back... _______________________________ Idle Map Screen 1 30" ~ 1.38 25" ~ 1.48 20" ~ 1.33 15" ~ 1.71 10" ~ 1.71 05" ~ 1.62 00" ~ 2.00 2-20psi ~ 4.95 Load Map Screen 3 30" ~ 0.95 25" ~ 1.19 20" ~ 1.33 15" ~ 1.71 10" ~ 2.14 05" ~ 2.57 00" ~ 2.86 2psi ~ 2.2 4psi ~ 3.2 6psi ~ 3.8 8psi ~ 4.4 10psi ~ 4.9 14psi ~ 5.5 16psi ~ 5.9 18psi ~ 6.5 20psi ~ 7 RPMwot Map Screen 17 5000 ~ 05 5500 ~ 08 6000 ~ 08 6500 ~ 10 7000 ~ 11 7500 ~ 11 8000 ~ 11 9000 ~ 12 The rest are zero RPMcrs Screen 18 1000 ~ -12 1500 ~ -11 2000 ~ -12 THe rest are zero Pump Map Screen 19 Pump2Start ~ 2000 Pump1Amt ~ 00 Pump1Pulse ~ 04 Pump1Trig ~ 18 Pump1Stop ~ 00 Pump1Adv ~ 05 Pump2Time ~ 10 Pump2Amt ~ 30 Pump2Trig ~ 16 Pump2Stop ~ 00 Pump2Adv ~ 05 PumpDwell ~ 3.00 PumpTimers ~ No Pump1Sync ~ No PumpSpare ~ 00 PumpCold ~ 00 Water Map Screen 20 -25 ~ 0 -17 ~ 70 -9 ~ 60 -01 ~ 50 05 ~ 45 11 ~ 45 18 ~ 42 24 ~ 34 31 ~ 26 38 ~ 24 46 ~ 19 60 ~ 12 68 ~ 06 82 ~ 0 99 ~ 0 124 ~ 0 Air_t Map Screen 21 -25 ~ 0 -17 ~ 8 -9 ~ 6 -1 ~ 5 5 ~ 4 11 ~ 3 18 ~ 3 24 ~ 0 31 ~ 0 38 ~ 0 46 ~ 0 60 ~ 0 68 ~ 0 82 ~ 0 99 ~ 0 124 ~ 0 Crank Map Screen 22 -25 ~ 72 -17 ~ 72 -9 ~ 72 -1 ~ 67 5 ~ 62 11 ~ 57 18 ~ 50 24 ~ 41 31 ~ 31 38 ~ 26 46 ~ 20 60 ~ 15 68 ~ 5 82 ~ 0 99 ~ 0 124 ~ 0 t*rpm Screen 23 Idle ~ 00 1000 ~ 10 1500 ~ 15 2000 ~ 20 2500 ~ 25 3000 ~ 25 3500 ~ 25 4000 ~ 25 4500 ~ 25 5000 ~ 25 5500 ~ 25 6000 ~ 25 6500 ~ 25 7000 ~ 25 7500 ~ ?? 8000 ~ 25 9000 ~ 25 t*map Map Screen 24 Idle ~ 00 25 ~ 05 20 ~ 04 15 ~ 03 10 ~ 02 05 ~ 00 00 ~ 00 2psi ~ 00 4psi ~ 00 6psi ~ 02 8psi ~ -04 10psi ~ -06 14psi ~ -10 16psi ~ -12 18 psi ~ -16 20 psi ~ -20 t*air Screen 25 Correction value Is expressed as number of degrees you wish to advance or Retard to the Ignition curve and values Is set at zero. t*gap Screen 26 0500 ~ 15 1000 ~ 15 1500 ~ 15 2000 ~ 14 2500 ~ 12 3000 ~ 10 3500 ~ 10 4000 ~ 10 4500 ~ 10 5000 ~ 10 5500 ~ 10 6000 ~ 10 6500 ~ 10 7000 ~ 10 8000 ~ 10 t*Inj Map Screen 27 0500 ~ 120 1000 ~ 150 1500 ~ 150 2000 ~ 150 2500 ~ 150 3000 ~ 150 3500 ~ 150 4000 ~ 150 4500 ~ 180 5000 ~ 210 5500 ~ 210 6000 ~ 240 6500 ~ 240 7000 ~ 270 8000 ~ 270 9000 ~ 270 t*wat Map Screen 28 ANd the rest are zero Option Map Screen 30 Af_StE ~ 10 Dwell ~ 3.25 *set at Time Base - not at Duty Cycle* REVstg ~ 1320 MAPstg ~ 02" %stg ~ 50 ___________________________ It just comes so close, but wont start... Im forgetting something obvious, I can feel it... Ted |
try raising your fuel pressure up to 43 and are the plug new
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Originally Posted by mattmarrx3
(Post 10223778)
try raising your fuel pressure up to 43 and are the plug new
I had it set on 50psi when I first started and lowered it. Ill put it back up and try again. I have been cycling the motor without plugs every now and then to make sure im not flooding the engine. So thats not the problem. (and the plugs werent wet either) |
that map should start it real well ,is the tps set to 0 with a * by it
are there any errors comming up might have to advance the timing a bit more on low cranks |
All checks come out ok, I will recalibrate the TPS.
(actually on the data screen it says tps +05%...) (screen 30 says my TPScal is at 23%) I will mess with timing to see if it starts in the morning. |
Pour around 200ml down each rotor of oil. It will start.
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Originally Posted by rx72c
(Post 10224810)
Pour around 200ml down each rotor of oil. It will start.
thanks for the help guys. ted |
It starts an runs for ~30 seconds before dying... Smokes a lot from the oil...
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put exactly 200ml in each rotor by removing the upper intake manifold... The first turn over sounded kinda like binding/hard squeeze for the engine to spin...
I have a slow blinking red light that i didnt see before on the ECU when the cars off, it doesnt run/start anymore. |
Originally Posted by TEDDER1
(Post 10224996)
put exactly 200ml in each rotor by removing the upper intake manifold... The first turn over sounded kinda like binding/hard squeeze for the engine to spin...
I have a slow blinking red light that i didnt see before on the ECU when the cars off, it doesnt run/start anymore. |
How do i do that with the dongle? I cant even remember how to get to the screen with the
"/ok /ok/ ok/ ok/" at the top... |
error will be rpm at a guess not firing on a plug
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Ok, I got it to start, it stayed on for ~45sec- a minute... I did play with timing on the TIMtrm little and thats when it started.
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Originally Posted by TEDDER1
(Post 10225505)
Ok, I got it to start, it stayed on for ~45sec- a minute... I did play with timing on the TIMtrm little and thats when it started.
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if its biting. he probably retarded to get it to start but the oil is the reason your car started. and if it dosnt start again you need to put some kms on the engine to bed it in because either the quality of the engine build is shitty or its not new parts
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Originally Posted by rx72c
(Post 10227091)
if its biting. he probably retarded to get it to start but the oil is the reason your car started. and if it dosnt start again you need to put some kms on the engine to bed it in because either the quality of the engine build is shitty or its not new parts
Solid corner seals Side seals RA Super Seals New springs on all of them new coolant seals new bearings etc I helped build the engine... I found the idle set screw all the way down.. I was looking at it with a "thats not right" look... Found the throttle actually rotated open to where the set screw was hitting the backside part of the "arm" instead of the top, and someone had calibrated the TPS to correct it. I have had nothing but problems with shops here in Orlando and have started to do it all myself. I keep finding stupid crap as I go... I will try to start it again tonight after school. Again thanks for the help. Ted |
Alright im getting tired... Which adjustment/setting should i adjust the timing with? TIMtrm? and how much?
What is MIXtrm? I rechecked spark: good. I rechecked fuel: good. The red light blinks after I try to start it, but not before. CAS problem? |
OK! Ive got an RPM error... but that just means ive been trying to crank it too long correct? I just keep resetting it.
I have the CAS indicator on the ECU flashing... |
Timing wont make that much difference unless you have the CAS in wrong.
Put oil in it again. If it starts you just need to drive it around. If it dosnt start. Start from scratch. Put the cas in properly. and have another turn at starting it. |
Ok, how exactly can the CAS be installed wrong?
Gap from the timing wheel? (whatever its called) Or alignment in regards to the metal tabs? I seem to remember a couple years ago when I had someone trying to dyno it, they did say something about a CAS problem... |
You align it with the 2 dots one on the gear,and one on the cas housing.put your pulley on the farther right mark on the pully and drop in the cas aligned.Thats it pretty straight forward hard to mess up.Good luck
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Alright felt like messing with her, she started for roughly 30 seconds and idled bad.
This time however the HOM and REF indicators started to show ERROR, so I will check my CAS again. I have a spare somewhere. |
Originally Posted by drifting in drifting
(Post 10236362)
You align it with the 2 dots one on the gear,and one on the cas housing.put your pulley on the farther right mark on the pully and drop in the cas aligned.Thats it pretty straight forward hard to mess up.Good luck
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Tedder where in orlando are u?
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the OP has an FD REW engine with a fixed,, true crank CAS
the only adjust the OP has is in the mix trim the OP must also realise that FD engines lack a true TDC or even -5 ATDC mark they have a -20 ATDC mark,, for the trailing the OEM ECU when being timed is using a 15 degree split timing at idle , so when timing is checked ON THE TRAILING T1 LEAD then t1 = 20 ATDC,, so L1 must be 5 ATDC to get around this you get out the protractor and remark the pulley for a TDC else,, you also make all your low down trailing maps a 15 degree split,, and follow the OEM timing technique to the OP-- is your ID screen telling you this is an FD configured ECU? as while both timing systems are essentially 12/1 tooth technique ( 24/2 for the FC CAS ) i believe its possible the inbuilt offset in the ECU may well be different and may be insurmountable ( whilst any other brand of ECU will have aced it being user definable ) at any rate,,remark the pulley OR try timing the engine after ensuring the timing maps have a 15 degree split at low rpms then lock the timing and use the t1 lead to align the timing mark PS,, trailing is only going to fire once the engine has actually started ( which is why i suggested the remark of the pulley with a TDC or -5 mark to aid in setup with only the engine cranking and the pump disconnected ) |
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