Microtech Necessity of TB Mod
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Necessity of TB Mod
So you guys know, you either need to do the TB mod prior to any tuning or disable the CSA.
Reason? You'll never be able to attain a constant set TPS level. I had mine set dead on, only to find out that when it got 10 degrees warmer outside my car was running 2C hotter. What happened? The TPS was now off. So unless you want to keep setting your TPS every 3 or four minutes as traffic and coolant temps change, go for it.
Reason? You'll never be able to attain a constant set TPS level. I had mine set dead on, only to find out that when it got 10 degrees warmer outside my car was running 2C hotter. What happened? The TPS was now off. So unless you want to keep setting your TPS every 3 or four minutes as traffic and coolant temps change, go for it.
#2
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I'll also pipe up and say that you can use the AWSV as your fast start up if you can't get your car to idle cold - just wire it up to a switch in-cockpit. Unlike the stock ECU, the LT8 (being speed-density) will be able to compensate for the extra air without problem.
Brandon
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Brandon
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#9
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Originally posted by RotaryRevn
What is the AWSV? AWSomethingValve? I am getting ready to do the tb mod (although the fc3s pro site is down so I need to find instructions somewhere else...anyone?).
What is the AWSV? AWSomethingValve? I am getting ready to do the tb mod (although the fc3s pro site is down so I need to find instructions somewhere else...anyone?).
#12
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I had a pot in my glove box (mounted in a box) that went to the TPS. I just found out what is was wired to after removing my old hernesses & shuff. The guy I got the car from already had it install. All I know about it is that It had two marks on it. If for any reason my idle got rough, I could turn the **** (within the two marks) and it would clean right up. Just like that.
I have the T-body mod & ported. Do I still have to redo the TB mod to help with the TPS?
F@#K it, I'm going to do it anyway. I have to start over though. My old one was made to be used w/ the AFM.
I have the T-body mod & ported. Do I still have to redo the TB mod to help with the TPS?
F@#K it, I'm going to do it anyway. I have to start over though. My old one was made to be used w/ the AFM.
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Originally posted by Josepi
So you guys know, you either need to do the TB mod prior to any tuning or disable the CSA.
Reason? You'll never be able to attain a constant set TPS level.
So you guys know, you either need to do the TB mod prior to any tuning or disable the CSA.
Reason? You'll never be able to attain a constant set TPS level.
Originally posted by No7Yet
I'll also pipe up and say that you can use the AWSV as your fast start up if you can't get your car to idle cold - just wire it up to a switch in-cockpit.
I'll also pipe up and say that you can use the AWSV as your fast start up if you can't get your car to idle cold - just wire it up to a switch in-cockpit.
Unlike the stock ECU, the LT8 (being speed-density) will be able to compensate for the extra air without problem.
Last edited by NZConvertible; 06-22-03 at 05:57 PM.
#15
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my car idles fine when it is cold with out the valve fitted any more,
i have setup cars that use the cold start valves and wax type with no problems at all with the TPS
i have setup cars that use the cold start valves and wax type with no problems at all with the TPS
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
The stock ECU has no trouble with the thermowax's operation so I'd be very surprised and disappointed if an aftermarket ECU can't too. All the TPS does is open the throttle slightly. You can do that with your right foot, so I can't see any difference that would cause problems.
You cannot be serious. There's no way I'm going to spend all that money on a (supposedly) modern ECU only to have to use a dash switch to get a decent cold idle. If I wanted that I could get a carb with a manual choke... The stock ECU already does compensate. The extra air is simply measured by the AFM.
The stock ECU has no trouble with the thermowax's operation so I'd be very surprised and disappointed if an aftermarket ECU can't too. All the TPS does is open the throttle slightly. You can do that with your right foot, so I can't see any difference that would cause problems.
You cannot be serious. There's no way I'm going to spend all that money on a (supposedly) modern ECU only to have to use a dash switch to get a decent cold idle. If I wanted that I could get a carb with a manual choke... The stock ECU already does compensate. The extra air is simply measured by the AFM.
AHAHA. Anyways. Do the TB mod, with proper tuning on your microtech you will be fine. You can do this by advancing your timing on the T_RPM map at the 0 RPM point. I set mine to 5 degrees advanced, and leaned out the fuel from 31 degrees celsius to about 42 degrees, and from 42 degrees to 48 degrees I richened it up just a tad.
#17
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
The stock ECU has no trouble with the thermowax's operation so I'd be very surprised and disappointed if an aftermarket ECU can't too. All the TPS does is open the throttle slightly. You can do that with your right foot, so I can't see any difference that would cause problems.
The stock ECU has no trouble with the thermowax's operation so I'd be very surprised and disappointed if an aftermarket ECU can't too. All the TPS does is open the throttle slightly. You can do that with your right foot, so I can't see any difference that would cause problems.
You cannot be serious. There's no way I'm going to spend all that money on a (supposedly) modern ECU only to have to use a dash switch to get a decent cold idle. If I wanted that I could get a carb with a manual choke...
Brandon
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the other solution,seems like,would be to simply disable the awsv when you initially set the tps,right?then it would function like it does on the stock ecu.then your just at the mercy of the awsv system working properly.mine is long gone,but fot ppl that are concerned about it,this would work,yes?
david
david
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No, the problem is with the thermowax pellet failing to expand fully when warmed up. It causes the TPS signal to be inconsistent, and can make calibration a pain. The AWSV is just used to bump up the idle a few hundred RPM as a replacement for the cold-start assist system's functionality.
Brandon
BR7 Racing
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BR7 Racing
#20
necessity of TB Mod
Hey guys,
Just got my Microtech installed and love this thing to death! I also did the TB mod a while back and am considering one of two things to make it "cold idle" somewhat better....once its warm no probs...even with AC on and steering at full lock.
A. Put all the coldstart crap back on
B. Drill a few 1/16ths holes in the butterflys as in theory what's happening is the car isn't getting any air.
I'm sure some tuning time fluffing around could solve this too but I'm some ways away from my tuner and my handset is on order still.
Any thoughts gents?
Cheers,
Treehunter
Just got my Microtech installed and love this thing to death! I also did the TB mod a while back and am considering one of two things to make it "cold idle" somewhat better....once its warm no probs...even with AC on and steering at full lock.
A. Put all the coldstart crap back on
B. Drill a few 1/16ths holes in the butterflys as in theory what's happening is the car isn't getting any air.
I'm sure some tuning time fluffing around could solve this too but I'm some ways away from my tuner and my handset is on order still.
Any thoughts gents?
Cheers,
Treehunter
#21
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It probably has more to do with your water temp correction maps than anything else. If they've not been touched yet, try pulling some fuel out as it warms up and it'll probably improve.
Brandon
BR7 Racing
Brandon
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