Microtech How long till you could drive it?
#1
How long till you could drive it?
I was wondering how long it took you guys with LT8's and LT12's to be able to drive the car after the initial intallation: wiring and plugging everything up.
Also does the ECU come with a base map or do you have to make your own from scratch?
Thanks guys!
Santiago
Also does the ECU come with a base map or do you have to make your own from scratch?
Thanks guys!
Santiago
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All mine have been drivable as soon as finished. However, the base map is way rich. You'll want to pull out quite a bit of fuel before you actually start to drive the car.
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Originally posted by Aaron Cake
All mine have been drivable as soon as finished. However, the base map is way rich. You'll want to pull out quite a bit of fuel before you actually start to drive the car.
All mine have been drivable as soon as finished. However, the base map is way rich. You'll want to pull out quite a bit of fuel before you actually start to drive the car.
Aaron wired up my LT8 exclusively. With some down time, I was able to Install my Koyo Rad, sandblast everything In sight and once again review Aarons wire up as from last week. Damn, you did a good job. It's very clean and subtle and It didn't take that long.
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#10
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I have pics of the process, but they are far from complete and were taken under...poor...conditions. Wiring harness pretty much looks however you want them to look. Tony's was done in wrapped black electrical tape. We tried to find a type of "sleeve", but couldn't get one locally.
#12
From what I can think of the connectors I would need would be: Injectors, TPS(GM in my case), air temp sensor, MAP sensor??, what other connectors are needed? BTW are any connectors included with the kits?
Santiago
PS- Thanks for helping me out guys. I can't wait till I get it.
Santiago
PS- Thanks for helping me out guys. I can't wait till I get it.
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I recommend replacing all stock connectors with modern weather pack (or is that WeatherPak?) connectors. They are used on newer GMs and Fords and unlike the Mazda sensors, are completely waterproof...
BTW, why do you want to run a GM TPS? The Mazda unit is already on the engine, mounts up without any modification, and works well. The Microtech is not nearly as sensitive to TPS problems as the stock ECU. The Microtech only uses the TPS to decide when the car is off-idle.
BTW, why do you want to run a GM TPS? The Mazda unit is already on the engine, mounts up without any modification, and works well. The Microtech is not nearly as sensitive to TPS problems as the stock ECU. The Microtech only uses the TPS to decide when the car is off-idle.
#16
The TPS is not on my car. It was stolen before I bought it. Therefore it is easier to buy a 48 dollar gm sensor and spend 3-5 dollars on making a bracket than going on ebay and spending 80-100 dollars on a used S5 TPS. which even at that is cheap for an S5 TPS.
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Originally posted by Aaron Cake
I recommend replacing all stock connectors with modern weather pack (or is that WeatherPak?) connectors. They are used on newer GMs and Fords and unlike the Mazda sensors, are completely waterproof...
BTW, why do you want to run a GM TPS? The Mazda unit is already on the engine, mounts up without any modification, and works well. The Microtech is not nearly as sensitive to TPS problems as the stock ECU. The Microtech only uses the TPS to decide when the car is off-idle.
I recommend replacing all stock connectors with modern weather pack (or is that WeatherPak?) connectors. They are used on newer GMs and Fords and unlike the Mazda sensors, are completely waterproof...
BTW, why do you want to run a GM TPS? The Mazda unit is already on the engine, mounts up without any modification, and works well. The Microtech is not nearly as sensitive to TPS problems as the stock ECU. The Microtech only uses the TPS to decide when the car is off-idle.
#18
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Originally posted by 1987RX7guy
bracket than going on ebay and spending 80-100 dollars on a used S5 TPS. which even at that is cheap for an S5 TPS.
bracket than going on ebay and spending 80-100 dollars on a used S5 TPS. which even at that is cheap for an S5 TPS.
Weatherpack connectors are available from most auto parts stores like NAPA, Car Quest, etc...
#19
Originally posted by Aaron Cake
You can't be serious. S5 TPSs sell used for $20. I sell them on eBay all the time for under $30 US. Or, you could just use the S4 unit. Bolts right up and cheaper as well...
Weatherpack connectors are available from most auto parts stores like NAPA, Car Quest, etc...
You can't be serious. S5 TPSs sell used for $20. I sell them on eBay all the time for under $30 US. Or, you could just use the S4 unit. Bolts right up and cheaper as well...
Weatherpack connectors are available from most auto parts stores like NAPA, Car Quest, etc...
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You can use any of the FC plunger style TPS's just mount it on the required bracketry from your model year and have the connector for the other side of it for the Microtech. I wouldn't bother with buying a GM unit.
#21
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No, I just don't rip people off. I literally have a bucket full of TPSs, from every year. At least 5 S5 units. Maybe I should start pricing them at $90 US instead of what they're worth?
Seriously, I wouldn't worry about the TPS too much with a Microtech. Just use whatever TPS you have (s4 or S5). Unlike the stock ECU, the Microtech only relies on the TPS to determine idle/off idle. Dead spots don't matter unless they effect the first few degrees of travel...By the time you make the bracketry for a GM TPS, you could have probably bolted on an S4/S5 RX-7 TPS and moved well onto much more important things...
Seriously, I wouldn't worry about the TPS too much with a Microtech. Just use whatever TPS you have (s4 or S5). Unlike the stock ECU, the Microtech only relies on the TPS to determine idle/off idle. Dead spots don't matter unless they effect the first few degrees of travel...By the time you make the bracketry for a GM TPS, you could have probably bolted on an S4/S5 RX-7 TPS and moved well onto much more important things...
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