Well i came back home yesterday, drove the car fine and parked it. This morning I go to start it up, but no go. I open Megatune on my Carputer to see whats going on thinking maybe some sort of noise not giving a tach signal, but no, tach signal is normal as in its constantly fluctuating. So then I try to check for voltage at coils and injectors. Both have a 12V going to them. Even the MS shows cranking, and then shows a PW of about 14ms (not sure why its that high it wasn't before) but either way its not grounding the injectors.

Anyhelp would greatly be appreciated.

Sam

 

Are you not getting any fuel into the engine? Can someone else crank the car while you listen to the injectors?

 

Were you running high-Z or low-Z injectors?

 

Oh, I know what you're thinking. That would suck.

As far as I remember, two low impedance.

 

Umm if i remember correctly, they're the low inpedance (same as the ones 87 and above years). I know have tried listening to the injectors, but nothing is clicking. You can normally hear them clicking from inside the car, I also tried taking out the spark plug wires and grounding it at the strut tower bolts with no spark to it.

What are you guys thinking of with the whole high/low- Z?

 

At the track I lost the function of no ground to my coils due to a bad connection at the CAS. I pulled it off sprayed some brake clean in blew it out then it fired up. Off I went to a practice session. I did blow an oil water heat exchanger due to high oil pressure two weeks earlier that may have been part of that problem oil water in the connection.

Any way some thing that may help.

Best Regards
Kim
SCCA RX7 RACER

 

Low impedance are everything *BEFORE* mid-1987. After that they are high impedance.

 

If they are low impedance, it could be a flyback failure. But I would never assume such a thing would happen with only two injectors. I'm also fairly sure I set your PWM as well...

 

check to see if your battery connection is tight. I blew an injector driver because of a loose battery connection and a friend of mine that runs megasquirts on 4age toyotas has had that happened about 4 times...you would think that the first time is enough to learn.

 

k then maybe it is the high impedance, I know its the ones that don't require any other modifications, just toss them in and go. As for the battery connestions they are tight, but even if they weren't how do you blow them up? Mine are run through a relay, and if the relay isn't activated there would be no power to do anything.

I didn't have much of a chance to look at things over the past couple of days but will be doing so today. I'll keep you posted on what I find ... unless it decides to just clean itself ... I wish! lol

 

Alright that was weird ... so i trying to solve the problem today, I decide to first spray the CAS with brake cleaner, no go, look again for voltage at terminals, no voltage, weird try to trace it back, the fuse for the relay for the Injectors and coil, is blown this time, weird so I replace it, try to start the car, the starter didn't want to spin this time, try doing it a couple of time, no starter still. I go under the car check for voltage all seems rights. Get back in the car try to start it, and she spins and starts up now. Something is really fishy with this whole thing and although it is starting i'm going to trace things back as much as I can. And I think that I will add another 4 guage from the batter to the engine bay or maybe even engine block. I have a 0 guage to the chassis, but maybe i just need one more to make sure its not the culprit of my problems.

 

Time to check the ground wire between the engine and frame.

Sounds like it's finding ground through the ECU harness...