Hey Ken I've been following the progress for Immanuel7's car and have a question of my own. I was running fine before I installed Jean's Peak and Hold board. That's when I started having problems. When I sorted out the problems with P&H board I wasn't getting rpm and noticed I burned out D19 somehow. So I replaced it and still wasn't getting rpm until I turned the pot's and then I started seeing rpm. So after some testing to the P&H board D19 went out again and I started to get a little frustrated. So I decided to just use the other conditioner from Jean's dual vr onditioner board for the main wheel. After wiring it to the V3 main board I still wasn't seeing rpm.

My question is should I remove pin 14's cap and resistor and just ground both conditioners? I noticed you advised that for Immanuel7 and that it doesn't work well with the later 2.xxx firmware.

 

You should always ground pin 14 on the lm1815 when using with the 2.0+ firmware.

Since I did that on my own MS, I've not had a single issue.

If you're getting noise after adding the P&H board you'll want to make sure you've grounded properly... How did you wire it in?

Ken

 

Well I'm using a separate connector for the injector wiring to the P&H board and the grounds.

 

Would it be better for me to purschase your board as it's already made for the Rx7?

 

Any board should do. There's no need to get another one if you already have one.

For the P&H board, you gave it its own set of ground wires running to the engine separately from the main MS board's grounds?

Ken

 

If by seperate ground wires you mean the Inj grounds, yes. I have the four ground wires going to where the MS is ground on the engine. It goes 12V to the injector, injector to the P&H board then the grounds come out to the engine.

I do have some good news. I now have rpm. I had a bad conditioner (lm1815) and I also grounded pin 14 by removing the cap and resistor and adding a jumper where the cap was. I connected the injectors to board turned the key and she started but died after a few seconds. My leading coils are not firing. I noticed when I turn the key it sparks before I crank. When I crank nothing happens with the leading. I think the ignitor is shot as I noticed when it sparked when turning the key it arced over to the positive terminal of the the coil. This might be a dumb question but could flooding the motor causing spark blow out cause the coil to over work itself somehow?

 

ken grounding pin 14 only applies on ms2extra or can i use that on ms1extra too.thanks

 

I'm almost sure that you can use that mode for the MS1 firmware.

 

You can use it on ms1/extra, but it should not be necessary since ms1/extra polls its 2nd trigget input instead of using an interrupt.

Ken

 

Ok now that I have rpm and a stock leading coil laying around I decided to try and see if the car would actually start and stay on and it's a no go as I thought that my first leading coil pack died on me. It seems it might be megasquirt related this is the third coil/ignitor set I changed out and does not seem to spark at all. Is there a way to tell if the signal coming from the 'squirt to the coil is working the right way?

 

Ok guys never mind I found the problem. It was Q6(transistor 2N3904) that was bad. Switched it out with a new one and all seems to be well. I loaded the new 2.1.1 firmware and at low rpms I can't get the car to idle or rev past 2000 unless I full throttle it and then it cleans up a little. I guess I will have to retune with the new mods to the megasquirt (P&H board mod and also using dual vr board to control first and second wheel). The behavior seems a bit weird I will get it working again. Keep you guys updated.

 

Hey guys this is a really dumb question but could having Inj1 where Inj2 is supposed to be and Inj2 where Inj1 is supposed to be cause my low rpm/idle problems?

 

yes... the secondary injectors are way up the manifold, the fuel isn't going to get into the engine as well when there isn't much airflow if you got those backwards.

Ken

 

I'm sorry Ken I meant only for the primaries (front rotor/rear rotor injector). If I get those mixed up it shouldn't matter right?

 

It could make a difference depending on which one squirts at which time.

It wouldn't make as much difference as squirting only the secondaries rather than the primaries.

Ken

 

Ok because it doesn't want to stay on idle and if I give it a little gas or let off the gas suddenly it dies out almost like a vacuum leak but no vacuum leaks. Only when I full throttle it will it go through the rpms.

 

That could be any number of things... VE might not be tuned, AE might not be tuned, ignition timing could be wrong, etc...

Ken

 

Well as far as the tune this is the same tune I had before I made the mods and I never problems with it. AE is off so I can finish up tuning the VE and spark tables. I haven't checked my fixed timing. I thought as long as you don't remove the cas you don't have to worry about that after the first time lining it up.

 

If the engine isn't running right, I would check everything just to make sure.

Ken

 

Ok will do thanks ken

 

Hey Ken my launch control is not working either. Will it be safe to assume that there is something wrong on the fuel side as it is set to fuel cut only?

 

Launch control not working is usually because of the switch inputs to the launch pin not being set up right. How do you have that wired in?

Ken

 

I never touched it and it was working fine before the mods to the board but that will be a later fix. I just noticed that my noise filtering curve was way out of wack. So I turned it off and I notice the megasquirt turning off and on at low rpm. Also I'm able to get it to idle normal but once I tap the throttle or its on decel it will just turn off and stay off.

 

Never mind on the launch control it's working as it should. I've ruled out fixed that's fine there, spark is there so far. I notice that it leans out when I'm holding the rpm at 1500rpm like the injectors are cutting out.

 

Ok I'm back and very frustrated with this ecu. I can't seem to figure out why the car won't stay on. I pretty much replaced everything on the P&H board with brand new parts LM1949 included in the replacements. I'm still having the same problems. This is very discouraging. The only thing I can think of is the chip that controls the injector signal on the MS V3.0 board which then goes to the P&H board. It shows Injectors are working on tunerstudio. I'm not sure what else to look for.