Megasquirt RPM signal is great! But still wont start...
#1
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RPM signal is great! But still wont start...
Hey guys i finally have RPM signal thanks to Full Function Engineering and the sweet trigger kit they make! I made a decision to go just MS3 V3.0 because i thought it would be easier in the long run and that i could just follow aaroncakes write up as if it was a MS2. The only thing i followed is the wiring part of it (minus the modification to the harness and the BAC) RPM finally shows up but the car just will not even try to fire up. I tested for spark but i have nothing at either leading or trailing. The way its wired up is
Trailing
Switched 12v to 2 Tan wires
red (trigger) wire to IAC1B (pin 27 on the DB37)
white (toggle) wire to IAC2A (pin 29)
Leading
Switched 12v to Tan
Ground to black
red wire (coil side) to IAC2B (pin 31 on the DB37)
I have the newest version of the premaid harness from DIY. I know that on the harness there are wires labeled for spark but i went with the way aaroncake had his wired up. I attached my MSQ. Please is anyone can help with the tune that i have i would greatly appreciate it!
Trailing
Switched 12v to 2 Tan wires
red (trigger) wire to IAC1B (pin 27 on the DB37)
white (toggle) wire to IAC2A (pin 29)
Leading
Switched 12v to Tan
Ground to black
red wire (coil side) to IAC2B (pin 31 on the DB37)
I have the newest version of the premaid harness from DIY. I know that on the harness there are wires labeled for spark but i went with the way aaroncake had his wired up. I attached my MSQ. Please is anyone can help with the tune that i have i would greatly appreciate it!
Last edited by FrankieK; 04-05-13 at 06:07 PM.
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And another thing. Does anyone think its a better idea to go MS3X and do the full sequential? I already have everything for it but for some reason i thought it would be easier to bail on that. Let me know your guys opinions! I could really use the help!
#4
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The black on the coil is NOT ground! Disconnect it from ground immediately!
You may have already burned out the ignitor by grounding it.
The coils ground through the ignitor body.
So you don't have an MS3X board?
If not, you need to make sure that injector and spark outputs are set to MS3 and not MS3X (something like that anyway).
Did you follow the instructions to install the pullup resistors on the LEDs?
Also, are those LEDs wired to the proper spot on the DB37?
You may have already burned out the ignitor by grounding it.
The coils ground through the ignitor body.
So you don't have an MS3X board?
If not, you need to make sure that injector and spark outputs are set to MS3 and not MS3X (something like that anyway).
Did you follow the instructions to install the pullup resistors on the LEDs?
Also, are those LEDs wired to the proper spot on the DB37?
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The black on the coil is NOT ground! Disconnect it from ground immediately!
You may have already burned out the ignitor by grounding it.
The coils ground through the ignitor body.
So you don't have an MS3X board?
If not, you need to make sure that injector and spark outputs are set to MS3 and not MS3X (something like that anyway).
Did you follow the instructions to install the pullup resistors on the LEDs?
Also, are those LEDs wired to the proper spot on the DB37?
You may have already burned out the ignitor by grounding it.
The coils ground through the ignitor body.
So you don't have an MS3X board?
If not, you need to make sure that injector and spark outputs are set to MS3 and not MS3X (something like that anyway).
Did you follow the instructions to install the pullup resistors on the LEDs?
Also, are those LEDs wired to the proper spot on the DB37?
#6
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Just for reference here is that chart from DIY about the wiring. I don't know if you'll be able to read it in here
Function Stock wire color MS2 V3.0 connection MS2 V3.57 connection MS3 / MS3X connection
NE + Red Pin 24 DB37 Pin 24 Main board pin 24
NE - White GND (pin 2 on our harness) GND (pin 2 on our harness) GND (Main board pin 2 on our harness)
G + Green Pin 25 DB15 pin 3 MS3X pin 32 (Cam input)
G - White w/ black stripe Pin 27 DB15 pin 4 Main board GND
Leading coil 12V Tan 12 volt switched power 12 volt switched power 12 volt switched power
Leading coil IGT Red Pin 36 DB15 pin 10 MS3X pin 14 (Spark A)
Leading coil ground Black Engine GND Engine GND Engine GND
Trailing coil 12V Tan (2 wires) 12 volt switched power 12 volt switched power 12 volt switched power
Trailing coil IGT Red Pin 31 DB15 pin 11 MS3X pin 33 (Spark B)
Trailing coil select White Pin 29 DB15 pin 12 MS3X pin 15 (Spark C)
IGF Yellow Not used by MS Not used by MS Not used by MS
Trailing coil tach signal Black To tach To tach To tach
Function Stock wire color MS2 V3.0 connection MS2 V3.57 connection MS3 / MS3X connection
NE + Red Pin 24 DB37 Pin 24 Main board pin 24
NE - White GND (pin 2 on our harness) GND (pin 2 on our harness) GND (Main board pin 2 on our harness)
G + Green Pin 25 DB15 pin 3 MS3X pin 32 (Cam input)
G - White w/ black stripe Pin 27 DB15 pin 4 Main board GND
Leading coil 12V Tan 12 volt switched power 12 volt switched power 12 volt switched power
Leading coil IGT Red Pin 36 DB15 pin 10 MS3X pin 14 (Spark A)
Leading coil ground Black Engine GND Engine GND Engine GND
Trailing coil 12V Tan (2 wires) 12 volt switched power 12 volt switched power 12 volt switched power
Trailing coil IGT Red Pin 31 DB15 pin 11 MS3X pin 33 (Spark B)
Trailing coil select White Pin 29 DB15 pin 12 MS3X pin 15 (Spark C)
IGF Yellow Not used by MS Not used by MS Not used by MS
Trailing coil tach signal Black To tach To tach To tach
#7
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Yeah...the DIY article is wrong about the "ground". That's actually a test connection for a diagnostic tach and connecting it to ground shorts the ignitor to ground.
As for your AFRs...without a MSQ and datalog it's only guessing.
Could simply be the car coming out of warmup enrichment on the base map. Could be fuel pressure, who knows...
A 10:1 idle is going to be VERY unstable and cause all kinds of misfiring, which will cause the engine to stumble and hunt. The wideband reading will be very erratic.
As for your AFRs...without a MSQ and datalog it's only guessing.
Could simply be the car coming out of warmup enrichment on the base map. Could be fuel pressure, who knows...
A 10:1 idle is going to be VERY unstable and cause all kinds of misfiring, which will cause the engine to stumble and hunt. The wideband reading will be very erratic.
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#8
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Yeah...the DIY article is wrong about the "ground". That's actually a test connection for a diagnostic tach and connecting it to ground shorts the ignitor to ground.
As for your AFRs...without a MSQ and datalog it's only guessing.
Could simply be the car coming out of warmup enrichment on the base map. Could be fuel pressure, who knows...
A 10:1 idle is going to be VERY unstable and cause all kinds of misfiring, which will cause the engine to stumble and hunt. The wideband reading will be very erratic.
As for your AFRs...without a MSQ and datalog it's only guessing.
Could simply be the car coming out of warmup enrichment on the base map. Could be fuel pressure, who knows...
A 10:1 idle is going to be VERY unstable and cause all kinds of misfiring, which will cause the engine to stumble and hunt. The wideband reading will be very erratic.
And that makes sense with the AFRs. (All of my fuel maps are from your write up) I believe I posted my MSQ to this thread but if not i can do it tomorrow. When I first got the car to start it idles right away at 10:1. I don't believe the CLT or IAT was connected when the car was finally running. I think that might be the reason for the crappy AFRs. I have 2 data logs and I can send my MSQ if you would like to take a look.
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Ok I'll disconnect the ground! Thanks for the heads up!
And that makes sense with the AFRs. (All of my fuel maps are from your write up) I believe I posted my MSQ to this thread but if not i can do it tomorrow. When I first got the car to start it idles right away at 10:1. I don't believe the CLT or IAT was connected when the car was finally running. I think that might be the reason for the crappy AFRs. I have 2 data logs and I can send my MSQ if you would like to take a look.
And that makes sense with the AFRs. (All of my fuel maps are from your write up) I believe I posted my MSQ to this thread but if not i can do it tomorrow. When I first got the car to start it idles right away at 10:1. I don't believe the CLT or IAT was connected when the car was finally running. I think that might be the reason for the crappy AFRs. I have 2 data logs and I can send my MSQ if you would like to take a look.
My base maps are pretty rich. Really all they do is assure the car can be started. Beyond that it's a bonus if there's any more functionality.
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