nofords

iTrader: (9)

1) I do not have any voltage (18-20mV) at the TPS.
2) The map sensor reads 8.5-10kpa

I built the MSII as per AaronCake's writeup with the Zeal Daughtercard, testing as per the instructions. Everything worked. I then proceeded to replace the stock map sensor with the "map daddy 4bar" sensor for numerous of now stupid reasons.

Since then, the two items noted don't function as normal. All other functions work. Coolant, IAT etc are all working as they should.

I have re-installed the factory map sensor and made sure all the connections are good as well as checked C8, C9 and R9. Plus checked connections between pin26 and R9 with 1.1 ohms on one side and 976 ohms on the other. No difference.

What other connections or components should i check?
Are there any pins on the map sensor associated with the TPS? (IE busted pads)
Is there any configuration values I should double check?

Thanks!

MuRCieLaGo

iTrader: (14)

Had the same problem two weeks ago. Had to send the Power FC to Apex'I two days ago (friday).

nofords

iTrader: (9)

I've done some diagnostics and have found that there isn't 5v going to the map sensor either. I am now assuming that they are 100% related.

I can't follow the trace. I loose it under R7.

Anyone have any thoughts on where the 5v comes from?

I do have 5v on the board at S5, 5V Proto, and 5v on my Zeal so I know that the U5 is working and is producing the correct voltage...

Can I jumper from 5v Proto to pin 3 of the map?

muythaibxr

Most likely this means that you either burnt a trace (check for that, it should be obvious) or there's a missing component on the +5v line that goes from the voltage regulator to the TPS and MAP.

I'll have to take a look at the schematics and see if I can find anything.

Ken

nofords

iTrader: (9)

One more thing to add...I've checked F1 and F2 and they are ok @ .5ohms (as per data sheet)

I've also checked the pads at the MAP and pins 1, 2, 3 show 5v when using +ve probe from 5v proto to pins 1, 2, 3 with the -ve probe. All 3 pins are grounded. the pins are not bridged.

I've looked for a burn trace but cannot find one. I have one that has the "protective coating" worn off but I have checked continuity and it is ok. I have struggled to find any obvious things but It may be something simple i'm overlooking.

Thanks again,
Darin

nofords

iTrader: (9)

Removing the MAP shows +5v when ground probe is at the sensor pins 2 and 3. Pin 1 is 0v. F2 same deal. +5v at F2 when grnd probe at F2.

nofords

iTrader: (9)

Got it. Was a broken copper tube from the bottom to the top. Couldn't see it w/o a high power magnifier.

Still no spark tho. Shows RPM in megatune. No spark with timing light. Middle LED blinks when cranking!

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Are your resistors on the correct side of the LEDs? I've made that mistake.

Do your ignition coils have power?

nofords

iTrader: (9)

I've verified the resistors as per your photos.

I fairly sure my coils have power. I tested my systems (power) as i wired them.

I will reverify the coil wiring when I get home. I will post my findings.

nofords

iTrader: (9)

Ok. I have spark confirmed by timing light. As i crank, i get RPM, Inj. PW @ 14.xxms, 8deg of advance as per megatune. Cranks at ~420rpm.

Now the problem is, that I do not have fuel. My plugs are dry as a bone (Brand spakin' new).

the three LED's...(From the left to right) flicker blink flicker during crank.

I have +ve 12 @ the injector via fuse block, and INJ1 (green) goes to Primary and INJ2 (blue) goes to secondary.

I have fuel in the lines. My FPR and Gauge says 45lbs on RC Low Imp. Injectors.

I measured the resistance w/o power and they are ~2ohms primaries and ~3ohms secondaries.

I will post my msq...

I am so close. I am trying to make it to my next race but I may not have enough time to break in the engine at this rate!!!

Let me know what you think! Thanks again everyone!

nofords

iTrader: (9)

If it matters, I'm running large cc injectors primaries and secondaries.

nofords

iTrader: (9)

I have also found that the BAC valve was powering the computer when i pulled the fuse to the computer.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

OK, there's something odd here...Cranking RPM should be about 250 RPM unless you have all the spark plugs pulled.

That's too much injector on cranking.

Does your fuel pump run when the car is being cranked?

Are your fuel feed wires backwards to the fuel rails? They should go from the pump to the primary rail to the secondary rail, then exit at the FPR back to the tank.

Sounds like your BAC is connected to constant 12V instead of switched 12V from the ECU fuse.

nofords

iTrader: (9)

All the plugs are in. I will check the RPM during cranking again.

The squirt is on my race car so most items are controlled via toggle switch.

Fuel pump is on all the time via switch. I will change the pump to computer operated after it runs.

My fuel rails are in parallel. I have a feed to a 'y' to both primary and secondary rails and then to a dual inlet regulator (aeromotive) and then back to the tank.

The BAC is controlled by the same switched power as the computer, separate fuse. Pulling the comp fuse still allows the comp to light. pull the BAC connector off and the computer dies.

nofords

iTrader: (9)

Ok. I checked the RPM and it was 250 not 450. My mistake.

I've been pissing around with it all morning to no avail. I'm wondering if i need Injector Resistors for this because the resistance is so low. I'm getting that resistance for a pair of injectors wired parallel.

A quick shot of ether makes the car want to start but that's about it. All i know now, is that I don't have fuel! ......

nofords

iTrader: (9)

this lack of editing posts really makes the thread cluttered as I add stuff.

I have also found that the injectors will "click" when power is turned off to the computer with the injector power is still active. I can make the injectors fire by grounding the wire to the 'squirt. So i know the injectors do infact work! (they are/were brand new and untested)

nofords

iTrader: (9)

Put a 87 turbo resistor pack in and it made no difference. I have it set up with the B/Y not connected to anything.

I can get it to run by quickly grounding the B/Y on the resistor pack. It forces the injectors to engage and i get get a squirt of fuel in. it runs for 2-3 seconds before it dies.

I don't know what to try next.

muythaibxr

Did you build your own board?

It looks like you did, so you may want to verify that you inserted the injector FET driver correctly and that the FETs are actually actuating?

Ken

nofords

iTrader: (9)

yes I purchased the "some assembly required" kit.

Any chance you could shed some light on a decent way to do this? (preferably w/o a scope if possible)

The Injector LED is flickering during crank. That's the best I can tell at the moment.

muythaibxr

All you need to do to check the orientation of the driver chip is look at it and compare it to the manual.

Do you have a stim? Seeing if that lights up the LEDs would help too.

Ken

nofords

iTrader: (9)

OK. I have re-jumpered the board back to the way it was during assembly (including D2). I do not have any RPM showing. When i plug in the stimulator, I get 3 LED's on the computer, and the PMP on the stim for priming duration, that's all. All the other pots work with their function and are linear (or at least work with megatune). In some cases, when i plug in the stim, all three LED's on the squirt light up and PMP remains on as it appears the Computer is commanding 2ms of PW. No RPM. Flicking the switch on the RPM Pot from PNP to NPN kills the 2ms PW and PMP turns off. D14 has also turned off once during my fiddling.

I've re-checked the jumpers, and the installation of the FET's for the injectors and they are the correct orientation and are not solder bridged. I did have RPM showing in the car, but not with the stim. I did during original assembly!

I can't pinpoint what has changed.

nofords

iTrader: (9)

D14 turning off has to do with a break somewhere on the board.

If i put light axial twist on the board the LED turns off. So, Now I have to do some searching. This is not going to be fun.

nofords

iTrader: (9)

OK. She runs!

I found the problem at Q14. The Injector FET was shorted to ground via a solder bridge on Q14. But the bridge was on top of the board under the Transistor. I had to bring someone in with a diamond cutting magnifier to find it.

Lesson learned. However, I did not ever get RPM signal or Inj. pulses with the stim after i returned all jumpers to the original assembly location. I knew that I had it on the car so after i found the short, i swapped the jumpers to the VR ciruit and put it in the car. Took a chance but it worked.

muythaibxr

glad you got it working then.