13bdarren

I had the car working pretty decent. I then decide to add fan control,bac mod, boost controller and knock sensor. Now the car is messed up bad. I must have fried something on the board. Any tips on how to diagnose this thing. I also had no succes on getting anything working. No fan control or idle controller to work. Never tested boost controller of course. I removed everything I added still nothing. I posted a datalog of what is going on. MII v3 board with extra daughter car installed. Daughter car had most of the circuit on it. I just hooked them to the corresponding pin one the ms board.

There is also a datalog posted below show the problems. And a msq just in case I messed any setting and not noticed. Thanks.

13brew 4 x 850cc injectors holset he351vgt
using stock rew vr sensors.

13bdarren

I think i might just order another ms with ms3 stuff. Bite the bullet lol

muythaibxr

Based on your post, I am not even sure what the symptoms are, though with ms3+ms3x, there is very little chance of messing up the hardware.

Ken

13bdarren

if you looked at the datalog you would see my issue. Crazy tach noise but in wierd places. Car wont rev past 4000 and goes lean. Car starts and idles fine. rev it up and hit 2000 and dies but get past 2 and its great till 4 and cant get past that.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

Where did you locate the BAC & boost control components? Depending on their physical position, and where you wired their grounds to, they could be causing noise when they turn on. If its consistently at a specific RPM though, I'd check the wiring from the CAS, as well as make sure that there is no corrosion on the alternator wiring & connections. I had a similar problem start happening, and it was because the spade connectors that I was using for the alternator connections (FD alt into an S4, didn't have the proper plug yet) had just corroded and was causing all sorts of ground noise.

muythaibxr

Also, where and how did you ground the MS?

Ken

13bdarren

Ms is grounded to engine. I remove all the component that I installed hoping it would fix and the issue is still there. I think something on the ms board got fried. I change my vr conditioning circuit with another and that did not help. That why I think something is damaged.

I will check my grounds again and try another ms unit to see this week.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

you could also try to troubleshoot your board, making sure all of the traces are still fine, and that things aren't bridged by a spare blob of solder, using the schematics here:

http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html

That'll also allow you to see each of the components and test resistors, diodes & caps (although, remember, if everything is soldered to the board, if you try to measure the resistance of one component, there may be other paths between the two ends of it, such as through other resistors, capacitors etc.) Make sure to TAKE OUT THE MS1 or MS2 before doing this, just to avoid potential static discharges, and remember a grounding strap when working on the board itself

Before you go buying new hardware, try the tooth logger or trigger wizard in TunerStudio. I think these are only unlocked when you register TS, but they'll let you visually see what the MS is seeing at that time, and whether its a bit of noise, signal drop-out or what.

13bdarren

I have tunerstudios. I did use the tooth logger at idle everything is fine. Just when you step on it it loses sync around 2200 and comes back after 2800. Works excellent from there to 4900 and loses signal completely. Drop down to idle and idle great. If you try to rev really slow it seam ok but still stops at 4900. I think I must of hooked something up wrong and fried something on the board. I could not get a 5v signal to the fan control is when stuff started working bad. I am going to pick up a friends board to try. It is just a ms1 v3. If is works I will put in the ms2 card and see if it is the ms2. I want to upgrade to ms3 anyhow so might has well start with a fresh build. Thank for all the help and input everyone.

muythaibxr

If something were fried, it is very likely it wouldn't work at all. More likely is something is just not hooked up correctly.

Ken

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

Do you use filtering values on the cas signals?

13bdarren

I just ripped everything out of the car and starting from scratch. I was using the relay board. I think the relay board might have been causing the noise. I will find out when I am done rewiring. I tried a friends ms in the car and it did the same as mine. It can only be 2 things wiring in the car somwhere or the ms2 card has some issues. First start with wiring. I found some stuff over in the megamanual for fixing noise. I am gonna use everything in that write up. If that don't do time to order ms3/ms3x lol

13bdarren

Great success relay board is gone now. I think it might of been the problem. To much high current stuff hapening in the same place. Now car start and idle better then ever. Did a couple test runs today and starting to max out feul system @ 9psi. Thing are looking good