i'm just wondering, is there any operational or performance differences between using the single built-in VR circuit, and cutting 2 opposing teeth from CAS wheel, or using a dual circuit and leaving the CAS stock? this is regarding the V3 board.
i don't know if anyone has actually tested the differences.

it seems i would rather not modify the wheel, but maybe going that route is the better/easier way?

 

I too am curious about this, I hav an extra cas just for modifications, but would rather stick with the stock wheel set-up if I could. Also, I am a bit confused about where to find the stuff to make that lm1815 circut. I have looked at the wiring diagrams for the dual circut and became thoroughly confused (twas 3 a.m.)
Any info is great

dpf22

 

If you have greater mechanical skills than electronic skills, I'd suggest going the route of the modified CAS. It allows you to use a nearly stock V3.0 MS1 kit with no need for extra circuitry, daughterboards, or the like. There's been some conjecture that the missing tooth (modified CAS) configuration is more susceptible to noise than if the stock CAS and second trigger method (with LM1815 circuit) is used. I'm certain any noise issues can be eliminated by proper wiring methods (shielding, grounding, etc). The missing tooth setup has been proven in 100's of non-rotary installs, so there's no need for concern.

 

alright. i would say i have ok electronic skills (i am in school for computer engineering, so i guess i SHOULD know how to do it), but looks like i need to find a second working CAS to modify, because that would probably be easier.

 

Just to chime in on this. I had an extra CAS and it was much easier for me to take my dremil with a diamond burr and remove the two opposing teeth. Also since I`m using a "plug n play" wiring harness adapter it only takes five minutes to change back to the stock ECU and CAS
I have had no trouble with noise in my ignition circuit what so ever. Fact is most trouble I have had has been setting related as opposed to mechanical or electronic.
Good luck with what ever your choice!!

 

Just since I decided to jump into this one I am gonna thank you guys for the input. I gotta do a search on which teeth to "modify" on the cas lol.

dpf22

 

You grind off two opposing teeth on the twentyfour tooth wheel. It does not matter which two as long as they are 180 degrees apart from each other. Don`t do anything to the two tooth wheel, you will not be using it for the missing tooth setup. After grinding off the two teeth you must stab the CAS so the third tooth passed the missing tooth (turning counter clockwise) is lined up with the lower VR sensor. I`ll need to look up the wheel decoder settings to be sure but I think its this,
base teeth=12
2nd trig=off
missing teeth=-1
trig a =1
trig a ret. = 3
trig b =7
trig b ret. = 9
Muythaibxr can correct me if I`m wrong, he knows this **** in his head
This is (I think) how mine is running now.

 

just reading through the msns-e pages and was wondering about something. it says to build a dual lm1815 circut for the msns-e, so does that mean I am going to have to build the second circut anyways? just curious as I am not always sure what people are saying.
I guess if I have to mod the cas, then thats alright anyways, but I just wanna know if I have to build this circut even with a modded cas to run msns-e. I am going to be picking up a v3 kit this weekend and am reading as much as I can till then. I wanna be prepared.

I understand how to stab the cas now, thanx a bunch

dpf22

 

Either build a second VR circuit or modifiy the CAS, but not both.

 

ok thanx, its just when reading the msns-e set-up page, it makes it seem as if you "have to" make that second vr circut and I got confused. (first timer.... can you tell)
Thanx for your info dude much appreciated. I gotta get some sleep, too much reading and not enough sleep= not very happy me tomorrow

dpf22