Megasquirt dies at idle
#1
i play with my wankel
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dies at idle
Had the car running great NA with stock intake and such, now I swapped to TII intake and threw a turbo on. Had it running and noticed my AFRs were pretty steady and not really moving anywhere. I have an innovate LC1 installed and in the innovate program I can pull up the gauge and it displays fine and moves like normal. I let off the throttle and let it go down to idle (which is a little high) and leave it run for a little bit and it outta nowhere just dies. I notice the car seems like it also has a hiccup once in a while. Idk what is going on. I have a log but it's kinda short. Everything in the ecu is setup like Cake listed on his website. Hasn't even left the garage btw. MS2 V3 is what I'm running. thx guys
#4
MegaSquirt Mod
I'll take a look at the log as soon as I get a chance. But the main things that cause an engine to die that way are too much or too little fuel. These two things should be obvious from the AFR in the log if it's reading right... and if not, they sound/smell/look different.
Ken
Ken
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well the afrs don't seem to be very rapid in response and I don't have a gauge in the car yet. I will try just monitoring the gauge through innovates software instead of tunerstudio and see what happens.
#7
Rotary Freak
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sync code 17 has to do with how the MS is determining the engine position/speed etc, and is usually caused by noise, sometimes by faulty grounds or connections to the CAS. This could definitely cause a stumble or make the engine die, and would be the first place I'd try to fix. If the MS sees 0 RPM or misses a trigger one cycle (caused by noise), it can stop fueling and sparking, causing the stall.
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#8
MegaSquirt Mod
Usually the most a sync loss will cause is a misfire. It would have to lose sync for several cycles in a row to cause a stall.
You should fix whatever is causing the sync loss, but I would say it is unlikely that the sync loss is causing your stall, it would resync almost immediately in most cases, causing little more than a couple misfires.
Ken
You should fix whatever is causing the sync loss, but I would say it is unlikely that the sync loss is causing your stall, it would resync almost immediately in most cases, causing little more than a couple misfires.
Ken
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Usually the most a sync loss will cause is a misfire. It would have to lose sync for several cycles in a row to cause a stall.
You should fix whatever is causing the sync loss, but I would say it is unlikely that the sync loss is causing your stall, it would resync almost immediately in most cases, causing little more than a couple misfires.
Ken
You should fix whatever is causing the sync loss, but I would say it is unlikely that the sync loss is causing your stall, it would resync almost immediately in most cases, causing little more than a couple misfires.
Ken
#10
Rotary Freak
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Yea, on a well-tuned engine, a sync loss will only be a misfire, but if you start affecting some enrichments & idle speed controls that have only been roughed in and not fully tuned, a sync loss could do as Eagle7 described or similar and cause over-enrichment etc.
It may be a sync loss over a couple cycles, caused by under-shielded wiring & a change in alternator load introducing some noise too.
If fixing the sync problem doesn't solve the stalling issue, a few years back I would run into trouble where the car would idle fine, but as soon as you'd increase the load on it (touch the brakes - more alternator load, turn the steering wheel, or touch the gas), it would stall. This was fixed by re-loading the firmware. It was a very odd problem, especially because it was a bit sporadic, but it couldn't hurt to try if fixing the sync problem doesn't help.
It may be a sync loss over a couple cycles, caused by under-shielded wiring & a change in alternator load introducing some noise too.
If fixing the sync problem doesn't solve the stalling issue, a few years back I would run into trouble where the car would idle fine, but as soon as you'd increase the load on it (touch the brakes - more alternator load, turn the steering wheel, or touch the gas), it would stall. This was fixed by re-loading the firmware. It was a very odd problem, especially because it was a bit sporadic, but it couldn't hurt to try if fixing the sync problem doesn't help.
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I lose sync multiple times and rpms drop. Grounds are all together at the ecu maybe 1 foot away then travel to the engine block then over to the chassis then battery to the chassis.
#12
Rotary Freak
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Are you using a shielded cable for the CAS wires? If so, make sure that only one end of it is grounded - if both ends are, then the shielding isn't doing anything. Also, look at the log and make sure that the battery voltage that the MS is seeing is pretty stable, otherwise that could cause the problem and could signal a poor ground or voltage connection, or that your alternator is getting ready to die.
#13
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Correct shielded cable from the cas grounded back at the ecu. I think I'm going to snag a spare cas and hook it up a drill or something faster so I can simulate engine rpm and see if it still has sync loss. I will just disconnect injectors and coils.
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Ok, checked all my engine and chassis grounds and recleaned them. Still picked up sync loss 17 when I simulated rpm. So im guessing it's a shielding issue and will be looking for better sheilded cable from the ecu to the stock cas harness. What is the easiest to use? Mic cable? Thx guys
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Just updating so if this comes up in anyones search. I rewired the harness completely, nothing changing, spun a spare CAS to eliminate any interference. Still had sync loss.... for some reason I decided to try a different CAS and changed NOTHING else. Wam 3rd CAS worked, all other CAS's worked for stock ECU.. So even if they test out good and worked before with the stock ECU they still may be causing an issue. thanks for all the help guys!
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