Megasquirt Alternatives...
Alternatives...
well i was asking allot of question on aim tonight and i got some very nice answers. namely, there are multiple ideas runing around in my head.
ive ditched the idea to use the ms's vr sensors, and use an rpm signal, or bypass the stock lm1815 on the board and replace it with something else. hers what i have in mind.
Controling spark via rpms
i came across this circuit.
http://www.megasquirt.info/ms2/easyvr.gif
would this be possible in any way? would i still have controle over spark if it was simply rpm based?
option other.
could i use a GM HEI 4-pin module to get a vr signal and convert it to a square wave so that ms can read that and bypas the stock one?
ide like to think that there are ways around problems, im an open minded person who thinks out of the box, and if i can get some creative output from anyone weather it will work or not then i will be greatful.
ive ditched the idea to use the ms's vr sensors, and use an rpm signal, or bypass the stock lm1815 on the board and replace it with something else. hers what i have in mind.
Controling spark via rpms
i came across this circuit.
http://www.megasquirt.info/ms2/easyvr.gif
would this be possible in any way? would i still have controle over spark if it was simply rpm based?
option other.
could i use a GM HEI 4-pin module to get a vr signal and convert it to a square wave so that ms can read that and bypas the stock one?
ide like to think that there are ways around problems, im an open minded person who thinks out of the box, and if i can get some creative output from anyone weather it will work or not then i will be greatful.
the easyvr was for inclusion on another board. If you can't get the internal vr sensor conditioner working, then that one isn't going to work either.
I suggest that instead of messing around with all these other ideas (GM 4 pin HEI won't work either, it's not meant to handle the toothcount that you have on the CAS), you figure out why your built-in vr sensor conditioner won't work.
Like I said before, the problem is either the circuit itself (which shouldn't be the case unless you jumpered something wrong because it works on the stim), the wiring between the CAS and the MS, or the CAS itself. If you focus on testing those areas, I'm sure you'll find whatever problem you're having.
I suggest that instead of messing around with all these other ideas (GM 4 pin HEI won't work either, it's not meant to handle the toothcount that you have on the CAS), you figure out why your built-in vr sensor conditioner won't work.
Like I said before, the problem is either the circuit itself (which shouldn't be the case unless you jumpered something wrong because it works on the stim), the wiring between the CAS and the MS, or the CAS itself. If you focus on testing those areas, I'm sure you'll find whatever problem you're having.
Like I said before, the problem is either the circuit itself (which shouldn't be the case unless you jumpered something wrong because it works on the stim)
the wiring between the CAS and the MS
or the CAS itself. If you focus on testing those areas.
i simply dont know what the problem is. the cas works, the wireing works, and the board works. could it be a software problem?
It could be the way the software is set up...
I'd suggest repairing the stim mod you made so the stim is normal again, and turning on stim-for-wheel.
If stim-for-wheel gives you rpms on the stim, the tach circuit works.
Then I'd suggest putting your modded CAS in the car, taking your MS out to the car (TURN OFF STIM FOR WHEEL), and cranking the car with the ms connected.
If wiring and everything else is good, and you have TACHSELECT wired to VRIN and TSEL wired to VROUTINV, and the software is set up right, then cranking the car with stim for wheel turned off should give you an rpm signal between 200 and 300 rpms...
If you're not getting a tach signal when cranking, make sure your Potentiometers are both turned all the way counterclockwise, and go over the jumpering and wiring internally on the MS.
Ken
I'd suggest repairing the stim mod you made so the stim is normal again, and turning on stim-for-wheel.
If stim-for-wheel gives you rpms on the stim, the tach circuit works.
Then I'd suggest putting your modded CAS in the car, taking your MS out to the car (TURN OFF STIM FOR WHEEL), and cranking the car with the ms connected.
If wiring and everything else is good, and you have TACHSELECT wired to VRIN and TSEL wired to VROUTINV, and the software is set up right, then cranking the car with stim for wheel turned off should give you an rpm signal between 200 and 300 rpms...
If you're not getting a tach signal when cranking, make sure your Potentiometers are both turned all the way counterclockwise, and go over the jumpering and wiring internally on the MS.
Ken
Originally Posted by muythaibxr
I'd suggest repairing the stim mod you made so the stim is normal again, and turning on stim-for-wheel.
If stim-for-wheel gives you rpms on the stim, the tach circuit works.
Then I'd suggest putting your modded CAS in the car, taking your MS out to the car (TURN OFF STIM FOR WHEEL), and cranking the car with the ms connected.
If wiring and everything else is good, and you have TACHSELECT wired to VRIN and TSEL wired to VROUTINV, and the software is set up right, then cranking the car with stim for wheel turned off should give you an rpm signal between 200 and 300 rpms...
If you're not getting a tach signal when cranking, make sure your Potentiometers are both turned all the way counterclockwise, and go over the jumpering and wiring internally on the MS.
are you sure you turned the pot's the right way? There's something from the steps above that is not being done right.
Try this:
Turn stim for wheel back on, and spin the CAS (try it in car with the fuel pump disconnected and the ignitors disconnected). Does that give you rpms? If so then you must have the software set up wrong.
Try this:
Turn stim for wheel back on, and spin the CAS (try it in car with the fuel pump disconnected and the ignitors disconnected). Does that give you rpms? If so then you must have the software set up wrong.
i havent tried that. im going to wire it up and see if that works. if it does work im going to poop a brick. yeah and i turned the pots counter clockwise like you said.
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then since it works on the stim, and not in the car, even in stim for wheel mode, something must be wired incorrectly. I say this becuase if you were getting ANY kind of signal AT ALL, you would've gotten rpms in stim for wheel mode. So this isn't a software setup problem, and it isn't a problem with the megasquirt because it works in stim-for-wheel mode on the stim. The only things left are the CAS itself, the wiring from there to your adapter, or the adapter itself.
do i have to be cranking the car? i didnt think it mattered if i was cranking the car or not. i just turned the ignition all the way, and spun the cas by hand, then i tried with my 24 tooth weel in the car and that didnt read neither.
you do'nt have to be cranking... you can also spin by hand and it should pick up..
The sensors in the CAS are not Hall sensors, they're VR sensors, and while it's rare that they go bad, it's not unheard of.
The sensors in the CAS are not Hall sensors, they're VR sensors, and while it's rare that they go bad, it's not unheard of.
damnit i wish i could edit msgs. anyways, i hooked it up to my volt meter and i click the volt meter all the way over to ohms. i clicked over to audio feedback with buzzer and proceeded to turn the cas. to my delight, everyt time a tooth passed the vr sensor, it would buzz. i dont know if this is supposed to prove anything, but atleast i know something was passing through it. the weird thing is, i dont know if it was voltage or ohms i was looking at, but the values seemed to go from , negative, to positive values, then repeat.
Edit : also, it would buz for a split seccond when it would hit a tooth, and then turn off. and proceed to do the same thing as i slowly ckick over to another tooth.
Edit : also, it would buz for a split seccond when it would hit a tooth, and then turn off. and proceed to do the same thing as i slowly ckick over to another tooth.
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