New kid on the block
Hey everyone, yesterday I made the decision to pull the trigger on an N/A 1988 s4 FC. given its condition, I'm going to need to perform a rebuild on it to start things off. Everyone on here is probably more experienced than me (especially with rotaries) so I came here for advice along the way. I've done as much of the preemptive background work as I can, but I'll probably need lots of help along the way.
thanks in advance guys.
thanks in advance guys.
Welcome to the club. The good news is that you are starting out with perhaps the more straightforward and easy to understand RX7 of all. Series 4 (86-88) n/a are often overshadowed by their fancier S5 siblings, but they have one major advantage. S5 and later have a tendency to go into Limp Mode if the Oil Metering Pump has a bad day. This can also take the ECU out with it. Series 4 is a purely mechanical pump, opened and closed by a rod connected to the throttle body.
There is a site that you should bookmark and download manuals from:
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
It might sound dumb, but something I learned is that it's much easier to work on a clean engine than a dirty one. If you're planning on doing a rebuild, It would definitely help to spend a day or two cleaning everything up under the hood. Some clean rags and degreaser from the dollar store will make life a lot easier when it's rebuild time. One thing I would suggest is being careful around connectors. They are likely to be 35+ years old and brittle. In 2011, my 13b's coolant temperature sensor (back of water pump housing) broke during removal, leaving half of it stuck inside the connector. Some Q-tips for these spots might be a good idea too.
There is a site that you should bookmark and download manuals from:
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
It might sound dumb, but something I learned is that it's much easier to work on a clean engine than a dirty one. If you're planning on doing a rebuild, It would definitely help to spend a day or two cleaning everything up under the hood. Some clean rags and degreaser from the dollar store will make life a lot easier when it's rebuild time. One thing I would suggest is being careful around connectors. They are likely to be 35+ years old and brittle. In 2011, my 13b's coolant temperature sensor (back of water pump housing) broke during removal, leaving half of it stuck inside the connector. Some Q-tips for these spots might be a good idea too.
Welcome to the club. The good news is that you are starting out with perhaps the more straightforward and easy to understand RX7 of all. Series 4 (86-88) n/a are often overshadowed by their fancier S5 siblings, but they have one major advantage. S5 and later have a tendency to go into Limp Mode if the Oil Metering Pump has a bad day. This can also take the ECU out with it. Series 4 is a purely mechanical pump, opened and closed by a rod connected to the throttle body.
There is a site that you should bookmark and download manuals from:
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
It might sound dumb, but something I learned is that it's much easier to work on a clean engine than a dirty one. If you're planning on doing a rebuild, It would definitely help to spend a day or two cleaning everything up under the hood. Some clean rags and degreaser from the dollar store will make life a lot easier when it's rebuild time. One thing I would suggest is being careful around connectors. They are likely to be 35+ years old and brittle. In 2011, my 13b's coolant temperature sensor (back of water pump housing) broke during removal, leaving half of it stuck inside the connector. Some Q-tips for these spots might be a good idea too.
There is a site that you should bookmark and download manuals from:
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
It might sound dumb, but something I learned is that it's much easier to work on a clean engine than a dirty one. If you're planning on doing a rebuild, It would definitely help to spend a day or two cleaning everything up under the hood. Some clean rags and degreaser from the dollar store will make life a lot easier when it's rebuild time. One thing I would suggest is being careful around connectors. They are likely to be 35+ years old and brittle. In 2011, my 13b's coolant temperature sensor (back of water pump housing) broke during removal, leaving half of it stuck inside the connector. Some Q-tips for these spots might be a good idea too.
this will be my 4th engine rebuild so I have some experience, but it’s my first rotary so that puts most things out the window.
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beyond that I have little information
the pictures attached are how it looks now

This is from today
This was last week
And this was a month ago with the new plate
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