New kid on the block
05-30-22, 08:54 AM
#1
Junior Member
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New kid on the block
Hey everyone, yesterday I made the decision to pull the trigger on an N/A 1988 s4 FC. given its condition, I'm going to need to perform a rebuild on it to start things off. Everyone on here is probably more experienced than me (especially with rotaries) so I came here for advice along the way. I've done as much of the preemptive background work as I can, but I'll probably need lots of help along the way.
thanks in advance guys.
thanks in advance guys.
05-30-22, 09:33 AM
#3
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mazdaverx713b (05-31-22)
05-30-22, 10:06 AM
#4
Welcome to the club. The good news is that you are starting out with perhaps the more straightforward and easy to understand RX7 of all. Series 4 (86-88) n/a are often overshadowed by their fancier S5 siblings, but they have one major advantage. S5 and later have a tendency to go into Limp Mode if the Oil Metering Pump has a bad day. This can also take the ECU out with it. Series 4 is a purely mechanical pump, opened and closed by a rod connected to the throttle body.
There is a site that you should bookmark and download manuals from:
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
It might sound dumb, but something I learned is that it's much easier to work on a clean engine than a dirty one. If you're planning on doing a rebuild, It would definitely help to spend a day or two cleaning everything up under the hood. Some clean rags and degreaser from the dollar store will make life a lot easier when it's rebuild time. One thing I would suggest is being careful around connectors. They are likely to be 35+ years old and brittle. In 2011, my 13b's coolant temperature sensor (back of water pump housing) broke during removal, leaving half of it stuck inside the connector. Some Q-tips for these spots might be a good idea too.
There is a site that you should bookmark and download manuals from:
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
It might sound dumb, but something I learned is that it's much easier to work on a clean engine than a dirty one. If you're planning on doing a rebuild, It would definitely help to spend a day or two cleaning everything up under the hood. Some clean rags and degreaser from the dollar store will make life a lot easier when it's rebuild time. One thing I would suggest is being careful around connectors. They are likely to be 35+ years old and brittle. In 2011, my 13b's coolant temperature sensor (back of water pump housing) broke during removal, leaving half of it stuck inside the connector. Some Q-tips for these spots might be a good idea too.
05-30-22, 10:14 AM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Welcome to the club. The good news is that you are starting out with perhaps the more straightforward and easy to understand RX7 of all. Series 4 (86-88) n/a are often overshadowed by their fancier S5 siblings, but they have one major advantage. S5 and later have a tendency to go into Limp Mode if the Oil Metering Pump has a bad day. This can also take the ECU out with it. Series 4 is a purely mechanical pump, opened and closed by a rod connected to the throttle body.
There is a site that you should bookmark and download manuals from:
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
It might sound dumb, but something I learned is that it's much easier to work on a clean engine than a dirty one. If you're planning on doing a rebuild, It would definitely help to spend a day or two cleaning everything up under the hood. Some clean rags and degreaser from the dollar store will make life a lot easier when it's rebuild time. One thing I would suggest is being careful around connectors. They are likely to be 35+ years old and brittle. In 2011, my 13b's coolant temperature sensor (back of water pump housing) broke during removal, leaving half of it stuck inside the connector. Some Q-tips for these spots might be a good idea too.
There is a site that you should bookmark and download manuals from:
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
It might sound dumb, but something I learned is that it's much easier to work on a clean engine than a dirty one. If you're planning on doing a rebuild, It would definitely help to spend a day or two cleaning everything up under the hood. Some clean rags and degreaser from the dollar store will make life a lot easier when it's rebuild time. One thing I would suggest is being careful around connectors. They are likely to be 35+ years old and brittle. In 2011, my 13b's coolant temperature sensor (back of water pump housing) broke during removal, leaving half of it stuck inside the connector. Some Q-tips for these spots might be a good idea too.
this will be my 4th engine rebuild so I have some experience, but it’s my first rotary so that puts most things out the window.
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